Hi, has anyone used the Dayton audio RSS315HO-44 ?.
Thinking of getting one, I wonder build quality - sound , etc. if it's good or worth the money ..
- Bruno.
Thinking of getting one, I wonder build quality - sound , etc. if it's good or worth the money ..
- Bruno.
- Parameters optimized for small enclosures
- OPTIMUM CABINET SIZE *
Sealed Volume 0.49 ft.³
Sealed F3 47 Hz
Vented Volume 1.36 ft.³
Vented F3 27 Hz
* Enclosure volume/F3s based on BassBox "optimum" calculations
- I was thinking of a bigger box at 26hz port.
In the description it says " parameters optimized for small enclosures. " I was thinking about 70 - 90 liters , tunned at 26 - 28 hz .
Found some videos, this guys used huge enclosures .
No actual measurements sadly.
84db sensibility not so much.
the 4ohm version has 90.5db sensibility , and mms 251g - 327g on the 4+4 dual voice coil,
Fs from 21.5 on the DVC up to 26hz on the single coil version.
that much sensibility difference because of the added mass on the cone? or was it on 8ohm wired when tested ?. ( makes sense the Fs is lower on the 327g vs the 251g )
Would like to build a subwoofer with this driver. Low bass for movies ( bass music like trap, rap, dubstep all types of that sh*t ) also would it be " musical enough" if tunned that low 26hz port ?. . To play up to 80hz or so. Personally I like the low freq bass even on " normal " music,
DVC - https://www.daytonaudio.com/product/125/rss315ho-44-12-reference-ho-dvc-subwoofer-4-4-ohm
SVC - https://www.daytonaudio.com/product/124/rss315ho-4-12-reference-ho-subwoofer-4-ohm
First two phots DVC ( the dual voice coil )
3rd , 4th photos the single voice coil.
- Bruno.
Attachments
.wdr file for WinISD , if someone has the time and would like to " have a bit of fun" with it .
Also official DATA files from Dayton.
Also official DATA files from Dayton.
I‘ve build designs with all of the Dayton 315 variants and the HF-4 is far and away my favorite in a reasonable sized box. The HO 44 has been known to ‘oil can pop’ in small enclosures during high SPL use. To get the most from the HO44 you’d need an amp capable of a 2ohm load though. As I said earlier, my preference would be the HF.
I‘ve also done quite a few dual opposed using a parallel pair of the HF-8…..that system can handle some serious power and is very articulate with class leading low distortion.
I‘ve also done quite a few dual opposed using a parallel pair of the HF-8…..that system can handle some serious power and is very articulate with class leading low distortion.
No….the aluminum cone makes a ‘pop’ sound like when you pump an old school/antique oiler. Again, only in small boxes at high SPL.
Does not sound to good tho, Cone flex maybe makes that sound?.
Here some quick WinISD in 50L to 70L tunned to 26hz. At 50L might be the " flattest " response.
and in the 70L or bigger box , I get a + 2, 3 db at around 28hz, would that sound bad in your experience ?. You want it to be flat as possible or.
I'm not gonna push more then 300 -400w to it, I was thinking of a subsonic / infrasonic filter at 20 - 17 hz to keep it from going over the Xmax at lower freq then port tunning. That seems to cut 1 , 1.5 db of that peak at 28hz as well .
Attachments
Attachments
What's a reasonably sized box here? I'm looking at a sealed build with 40 liters net and the HO44 seems to model the best for low bass. I do use DSP though, so I guess the only benefit it might have is the lower box resonance
I doubt I'll stretch it to higher excursion (I'll get two or three units in separate boxes) but of course I'd rather have a cleaner sound while not being afraid of pops
If you’re building a multi sub system ( I NEVER suggest 2…..thats the worst option) and you‘ll be using DSP, there’s much more to discuss. For starters, you can go with small boxes as I’d strongly suggest the sealed option with three or more and DSP. Now no HP filter is required, only careful power selection will be your limiting solution. If you can do 4, cascading response is the way to go for in room extension into the upper teens. The two subs closest to the listening position and Somewhat away from boundaries low passed around 80hz and then the two farther away corner loaded if possible low passed lower and frequency depending on in room response. This will keep your extension from 100hz down to 50 flat, clean and effortless……where your fundamentals are such as kick and bass guitar, low piano and such.
Then don’t do two……just one and front corner load it for the lowest extension possible. Whatever box size gives you the lowest and flat response in your modeler is fine…….just make sure your port is large enough to not chuff and DO NOT let the port volume exceed 1/8 of the enclosure volume or you’ll wind up with odd order phase issues and it will behave more like a horn than a port.
In all honesty, you’re MUCH better off with 3-4 cheaper ( and smaller need be) subs than 1 premium one where bass is concerned for a lot of reasons. Distortion won’t be an issue at all with three over 1 since you’ll have the quivalent of an 18” driver with SD. Take a look at the Dayton SD 315-88.……it’s an EXCELLENT driver for the money and 3-4 of them placed around the room will perform exponentially better than the single RS…..not even close really.
I'm doing pretty well with 2 subs at the moment, MSO does wonders FWIW. I'm personally looking for extension down to 20Hz for HT use in addition to music - sorry to borrow your thread, Bruno 🙂
The new Ultimaxes seem very interesting too. We'll see when the T/S come out
@jaakkopetteri Low bass is what I was looking for too . Well until I put some money aside for something good, 4 subs or whatever I end up doing.
I got a car sub from Pioneer .
Qms seems a bit high .
100 liters box tunned at 27 gives -3 at 22hz .
Might sound good for a home theatre sub and low bass music.
38mm front and back baffle, 19mm sides and top bottom. Internal braces .
Looking forward to see how it will end up looking and sounding.
Sub was around 100 usd. Built quality seems good. Free air it sounds good , not much mechanical noise at all.
Magnet pretty ok size, 13.5 cm .
A bit of dust on the sub from the box , sorry about that !.
I got a car sub from Pioneer .
Qms seems a bit high .
100 liters box tunned at 27 gives -3 at 22hz .
Might sound good for a home theatre sub and low bass music.
38mm front and back baffle, 19mm sides and top bottom. Internal braces .
Looking forward to see how it will end up looking and sounding.
Sub was around 100 usd. Built quality seems good. Free air it sounds good , not much mechanical noise at all.
Magnet pretty ok size, 13.5 cm .
A bit of dust on the sub from the box , sorry about that !.
Attachments
The 18' ultimax or the 15 caught my attention too .
Dayton has more models with high excursion low Fs .
I don't have a big room tho, only 5 x 4 x 2.7 meters. I don't know how they will sound .
I need some room treatment also , I have a bit of reverb that doesnt sound right , since I removed the old furniture .
Still working on my room and amps, sub. Still lots to do .
Had to improvise a bit to install a fan for the amp, maybe I'll put 1 or 2 more fans on the bottom of the amp as well.
Attachments
@xXBrunoXx
Your room layout and doorway placement floor plan make the most sense for 4 small corner load subs since wiring won’t cross any thresholds. Downfiring would load the room best with front/side loaded ports.
That’s a small sealed space…..you’ll likely get 8-10db of room gain no problem…..no need to overthink all this. If you want to keep the build very simple, use cardboard concrete tubes and slot ports.
Use 4 4ohm drivers each pair of drivers wired in series then parallel at a single amp for a four ohm load…..you’ll get a 6db output gain with 4 drivers instead of one and still only need 1 amp. You’re in room respinse will require little to no EQ and will be super smooth.
Your room layout and doorway placement floor plan make the most sense for 4 small corner load subs since wiring won’t cross any thresholds. Downfiring would load the room best with front/side loaded ports.
That’s a small sealed space…..you’ll likely get 8-10db of room gain no problem…..no need to overthink all this. If you want to keep the build very simple, use cardboard concrete tubes and slot ports.
Use 4 4ohm drivers each pair of drivers wired in series then parallel at a single amp for a four ohm load…..you’ll get a 6db output gain with 4 drivers instead of one and still only need 1 amp. You’re in room respinse will require little to no EQ and will be super smooth.