I have a Dayton rs100-8 full range speaker that I am looking to put in a cabinet that I built. The problem is, I am new to building speaker things and do not know how big to build the box and what the inside should look like. I'm up for anything fairly small and NOT sealed if possible. Here's the link to the speaker Dayton Audio RS100-8 4" Reference Full-Range Driver Thanks!
Download a bass reflex cabinet simulator program. Put in values of TS parameters and play with it. You could just go by why Dayton recommends for volume and vent sizing.
On the website look for suggested box dimensions.
It says to use 0.1cu ft or about 3 liters. Tune to 67Hz. The bass reflex simulator can tell you vent size for 67Hz tuning.
Probably about 3/4in dia vent by about 3in long. Thereabouts.
On the website look for suggested box dimensions.
It says to use 0.1cu ft or about 3 liters. Tune to 67Hz. The bass reflex simulator can tell you vent size for 67Hz tuning.
Probably about 3/4in dia vent by about 3in long. Thereabouts.
Highish Q means it is not typically suitable for a regular reflex box. 3 litres sealed works, but you could try 3.5 litre tuned to 72 Hz. This alignment really needs a high aspect ratio slot vent to help squash the LF bump. F10 est of 63 Hz.
dave
PS: the 3 litre at 67 Hz should work too.
dave
PS: the 3 litre at 67 Hz should work too.
Is there a way to do it without buying a tube? I'm trying to spend as little of money as possible. Thanks
My RS100-8 still resides in my XKi. Very deep bass down to 60Hz and uniform polar response.
XKi - X's ab initio Karlson 6th Order Bandpass
XKi - X's ab initio Karlson 6th Order Bandpass
Dave I would like to use a slot vent too. Are all the designs like the one xrk971 posted? If they do get simpler I would rather use those. I also used a calculator for a vent tube and it says I should have
vb= 0.17 ft^3
dv= 1 inch
lv=2.32 inches
fb=63.6hz
My modeler spits out interactively designed slot vents. The simplistic approach would be to convert the round vent to a rectangle of the same cross-section and length. Use this kind of build topology.
http://p10hifi.net/tlinespeakers/FAL/box-plans/microFonken-0v9-map.pdf
The vent size can be changed using the formulas here: http://p10hifi.net/FAL/downloads/Changing-Port-Size.pdf
dave
http://p10hifi.net/tlinespeakers/FAL/box-plans/microFonken-0v9-map.pdf
The vent size can be changed using the formulas here: http://p10hifi.net/FAL/downloads/Changing-Port-Size.pdf
dave
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It's actually very simple - only thing is an angled baffle board. Same slot vent and now a Karlson aperture if you want the K effect. Make the front angled baffle flat and you are back to a BR.
So xrk971 like I said I'm very new to speaker building and I'm not sure what the k effect is. I also don't know what you mean when you say "and you are back to a BR" what's a BR?
when you say cross section of the tube do you mean using the length and diameter? Say I had a 2.5" long tube with a 1 inch diameter. Would the rectangle be 2.5x 1 in?
Karlson aperture effect: sound having a uniform wide polar distribution and great dynamics.
BR is bass reflex
BR is bass reflex
The cross section is the area of the tube, ∏r2 = 0.785 in2 and the length is the length 2.5”.
dave
Do you have a recommendation for port slot port sizes? I have the box measuring 5.75"x8.25"x6.25"=296.5cu in. The calculator I used said port should have diameter of 1 inch and length of 2.33 inch this has area of 0.78 inches/ 4.9cm.
= 4.86 litre.
Those are internal dimensions? Hopefully not, because that is too much volume — you could always put a “brick” in the box to eat up some volume if it is.
dave
Oh jeez yeah it is way too big. Didn't realize I was a whole liter off. I revised the measurements so it's 5.75x5x6=172.5 cubic in. That's 0.3 Cuin. off from 0.1 cuft. That seems close enough to me. Also thinking about a taller version that's 4.5x5.25x7.25=171.3cuin. When plugging in numbers for the dimensions, I gets widths of like 12cm but the height is 5mm which seems insanely high. If I make it less wide it screws it up a little bit right? What should I do
Changing 5.75x5x6 to 5.75x5x6.5 = 3.06 litres.
This is what i’d do — note that the vent spacer width is unknown, i had a power failure last nite and haven’t gone down to turn my modeling computer so can’t figure it yet. If it turns out to be too wide, i’ll shrink the vent height.
Uses 12mm ply, and all dimensions used, except the starting internal dimensions, are metric.
dave
Note: drawing updated to reflect missing information
This is what i’d do — note that the vent spacer width is unknown, i had a power failure last nite and haven’t gone down to turn my modeling computer so can’t figure it yet. If it turns out to be too wide, i’ll shrink the vent height.
Uses 12mm ply, and all dimensions used, except the starting internal dimensions, are metric.
dave
Note: drawing updated to reflect missing information
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Thank you very much for all the help. I obviously needed it. How do I find the size of the vent spacer? And also would Home Depot or Lowes have the plywood? Again thank you so muchChanging 5.75x5x6 to 5.75x5x6.5 = 3.06 litres.
This is what i’d do — note that the vent spacer width is unknown, i had a power failure last nite and haven’t gone down to turn my modeling computer so can’t figure it yet. If it turns out to be too wide, i’ll shrink the vent height.
Uses 12mm ply, and all dimensions used, except the starting internal dimensions, are metric.
dave