To maximize the design a 220L@26Hz for a Bessel type. Other alignments like a 170L Vb are not so radically better. If doing a "super" sub you need 300/400 liter. I don't see advantage of using small speaker with low tuning. I might be wrong.
damuffin, I think you'll be able to go quite low with that driver. I have the 15" versions, Dayton Audio PA380-8 15" Pro Woofer and they extend much lower than advertised and are still able to achieve relatively high spl when needed.
So after cutting and gluing the box ended up having an internal volume of 7'. (Empty)
Am I correct in thinking that If I wanted to do a Extended Bass Shelf or "Super Sub" it's too small. 🙁
So ideally a tune of 32Hz with a 1db hump is the final consensus?
I'm hoping to get the slot vent cut into the bottom of the front baffle and then I'll post a pic.
I might even try it sealed just to see what the room response does prior to cutting.
Am I correct in thinking that If I wanted to do a Extended Bass Shelf or "Super Sub" it's too small. 🙁
So ideally a tune of 32Hz with a 1db hump is the final consensus?
I'm hoping to get the slot vent cut into the bottom of the front baffle and then I'll post a pic.
I might even try it sealed just to see what the room response does prior to cutting.
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damuffin, I think you'll be able to go quite low with that driver. I have the 15" versions, Dayton Audio PA380-8 15" Pro Woofer and they extend much lower than advertised and are still able to achieve relatively high spl when needed.
Rob,
I have two PA380s that I have yet to use. Do you have any plans/dimensions you can share for the box (or boxes) you built?
I took a temporary shortcut by using a pair of Cerwin Vega enclosures I had.
The enclosures are 3.55 cubic ft. They have a full width slot about 2 1/2" slot along the bottom in the rear. The top of the slot in the back is enclosed to about 2 1/2" from the baffle.
These enclosures are too big as PE recommends 1.55 cubic ft for a vented enclosure.
Hi,
if you need some direction the 15" driver Dayton Audio PA380-8 you asked doesn't have a good LF response for sub but good sensitivity. Look at specs in pdf: Usable*Frequency*Range*(28 Hz), that is around F12 and this already in a good over-dimensioned EBS type subwoofer.
So let's look at (one of) the alignment(s), net/v, ports and power for this setup project.
DAYTON PA380-8 v2015, VB = 100.0 L, FB = 35.0 Hz
(data from link)
P=210.00 W (~V=42.00) @Xmax for the dimensioning of ports.
Ports: (1x) rectangular 2.5"x8.00", length 8.5"
For larger ports (c/s area) meaning longer lengths.
Note: You need to add the volume of the port(s) to the speaker net volume (internal) if the 100L/3.53ft³ together with the volume of the driver (displacement 15 inch - 4.0 liters) and bracing approx. 4.5L= 0.160ft³ for the final extra volume of the enclosure (internal).
Probably not very interesting as a sub, no extension. Maybe more interesting as a multi-way type woofer ~95.4 dB/2.83V/m. This is the Multi-Way forum anyway. Have fun.
Attachments
Ideal COMPACT size sealed/vented box for Dayton Audio PA460-8 18" speaker drivers
Hi folks and merry xmas! During the holidays I will be making a triplex/multiplex wooden box for Dayton Audio PA460-8 drivers. I am a music fidelity fan and especially appreciate natural warm vocals in the midrange. I dont need ultrasub low to boom boom my neighbours. I just want a subtle warm base in my 3 way build. The midrange will come from my astonishingly good sounding warm papercone philips 22RH422 speakers (vintage 70's with incredible natural sound). and the highs from a fountec NeoCD 2.0 ribbon tweeter. All driven by a sony ta-n80es amps.
Now my quesion is regarding the Dayton 18" woofers: what would be the lowest audible frecuency of these drives if I design "flat" thin cabinets for these 18" drivers? I am thinking of a cabinet barely 20 cm deep (the depth of the driver + 1 cm!) And stuffing it like crazy with foam/sheep wool tricking the box to think its much larger volume.
I have two dimensions in mind and still not sure wether to make it sealed or ported/vented. I want a natural deep base that will sound different from music to music! I hate the ported boom boom where all the base sounds the same. I need only a subtle hint of base. I listen to female vocals, classical, new wave, the eighies etc. My 3 way crossover will have crossover point at around 300 Hz and 3000 Hz. This way all the important vocals in the midrange is handled by 1 speaker.
My cabinets will be barely 20 cm deep and...
a. 100cm tall x 50cm wide x 20cm deep fully sealed!
b. 100cm tall x 50cm wide x 20cm deep with rear left open!
In other words a is the one extrem (fully sealed) whereas b (mix of open baffle/ported) is the other extreme.
1. What will the base characteristics be for a and b variantion?
2. How will the base sound muscially for a and b variation?
3. What will be the lowest still audible frequency be in a and b cabinet design?
4. I can choose between 7 mm triplex and 19 mm multiplex wood. Since no Cello is ever made of MDF, I chose to use multiplex wood. Will these sound better than the dead MDF material? If yes then why all people use MDF? its toxic and heavier and niet much cheaper than real wooden multiplex!?
5. I want to make custom wooden horns for the midtone and tweeter. Any ideas/links/sources who on earth to make that? Just imagine the results!
Hi folks and merry xmas! During the holidays I will be making a triplex/multiplex wooden box for Dayton Audio PA460-8 drivers. I am a music fidelity fan and especially appreciate natural warm vocals in the midrange. I dont need ultrasub low to boom boom my neighbours. I just want a subtle warm base in my 3 way build. The midrange will come from my astonishingly good sounding warm papercone philips 22RH422 speakers (vintage 70's with incredible natural sound). and the highs from a fountec NeoCD 2.0 ribbon tweeter. All driven by a sony ta-n80es amps.
Now my quesion is regarding the Dayton 18" woofers: what would be the lowest audible frecuency of these drives if I design "flat" thin cabinets for these 18" drivers? I am thinking of a cabinet barely 20 cm deep (the depth of the driver + 1 cm!) And stuffing it like crazy with foam/sheep wool tricking the box to think its much larger volume.
I have two dimensions in mind and still not sure wether to make it sealed or ported/vented. I want a natural deep base that will sound different from music to music! I hate the ported boom boom where all the base sounds the same. I need only a subtle hint of base. I listen to female vocals, classical, new wave, the eighies etc. My 3 way crossover will have crossover point at around 300 Hz and 3000 Hz. This way all the important vocals in the midrange is handled by 1 speaker.
My cabinets will be barely 20 cm deep and...
a. 100cm tall x 50cm wide x 20cm deep fully sealed!
b. 100cm tall x 50cm wide x 20cm deep with rear left open!
In other words a is the one extrem (fully sealed) whereas b (mix of open baffle/ported) is the other extreme.
1. What will the base characteristics be for a and b variantion?
2. How will the base sound muscially for a and b variation?
3. What will be the lowest still audible frequency be in a and b cabinet design?
4. I can choose between 7 mm triplex and 19 mm multiplex wood. Since no Cello is ever made of MDF, I chose to use multiplex wood. Will these sound better than the dead MDF material? If yes then why all people use MDF? its toxic and heavier and niet much cheaper than real wooden multiplex!?
5. I want to make custom wooden horns for the midtone and tweeter. Any ideas/links/sources who on earth to make that? Just imagine the results!
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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