Appleton,
I am in the same boat. The soldering looks daunting for a complete novice. But what better item to start with than a $50 amp? I already wanted to build two other amps, but the cost was prohibitive considering my current lack of skills.
Here's a thread that may help. It's ridiculously long and some of it is a bit hard to understand for novices. Also it refers to the SI t-amp. It looks to me like there are some differences between the SI t-amp and the Dayton. But there should still be some useful information for you... especially in reference to to upgrading connectors and case.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=50870&page=64
I am in the same boat. The soldering looks daunting for a complete novice. But what better item to start with than a $50 amp? I already wanted to build two other amps, but the cost was prohibitive considering my current lack of skills.
Here's a thread that may help. It's ridiculously long and some of it is a bit hard to understand for novices. Also it refers to the SI t-amp. It looks to me like there are some differences between the SI t-amp and the Dayton. But there should still be some useful information for you... especially in reference to to upgrading connectors and case.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=50870&page=64
I haven't heard the Oppo. However, new DVD transports always seem to make a racket, even those in fairly expensive units. I'm not sure I would count on it being more quiet than what you've got. I got tired of transport noise and sold my Philips SACD player in favor of a vintage Philips CDP-630.
I highly recommend late 80's Philips and Marantz CD players with the Philips TDA1541 (A or not) dac. There are many models, the most common are the CD-40, CD-50 and CD-60. They can be had for around $50 on ebay. They sound nice stock. However, you can get some good soldering practice by converting them to non-oversampling operation. The PCB's are much tougher than the SI, and would provide great practice! The Philips transports from that era are solid and awfully quiet. The tricky part is finding one that hasn't been played to death. They have some plastic gears that wear, so you want to be sure the seller claims it to work fine and you can return it if it doesn't!
There are, of course, higher end models with the same dac and even better transports. Not only are they more expensive, but they are more likely to have seen heavy use.
I've also got a Toshiba DVD player of the sort that used to be popular on AA prior to the discovery of the OPPO. Such models (the ones that had upsampling and cost $60 new) can be had for $20 on the 'bay (bought mine in a pawn shop, they were really common). The transport ain't that quiet, but I'm not convinced that the Oppo would be a big step up.
Of course, folks like to mod the Toshibas and the Oppos too! There is only one way to learn to solder, read schematics and trace PCB's. It is just easier to start on older stuff with bigger parts and traces.
pj
I highly recommend late 80's Philips and Marantz CD players with the Philips TDA1541 (A or not) dac. There are many models, the most common are the CD-40, CD-50 and CD-60. They can be had for around $50 on ebay. They sound nice stock. However, you can get some good soldering practice by converting them to non-oversampling operation. The PCB's are much tougher than the SI, and would provide great practice! The Philips transports from that era are solid and awfully quiet. The tricky part is finding one that hasn't been played to death. They have some plastic gears that wear, so you want to be sure the seller claims it to work fine and you can return it if it doesn't!
There are, of course, higher end models with the same dac and even better transports. Not only are they more expensive, but they are more likely to have seen heavy use.
I've also got a Toshiba DVD player of the sort that used to be popular on AA prior to the discovery of the OPPO. Such models (the ones that had upsampling and cost $60 new) can be had for $20 on the 'bay (bought mine in a pawn shop, they were really common). The transport ain't that quiet, but I'm not convinced that the Oppo would be a big step up.
Of course, folks like to mod the Toshibas and the Oppos too! There is only one way to learn to solder, read schematics and trace PCB's. It is just easier to start on older stuff with bigger parts and traces.
pj
You were right that thread is long. I don't think I'll ever get my propeller going fast enough to understand all that.
It's not like I've never done soldering. I've used solder wick to remove the stuff on a connection. I have my little soldering tool box with a low wattage iron
(30watt) in it. I worry about having to get silver solder which melts a lower temps than the electrical stuff available at the farm and fleet) which is what I use for interconnects.)
I've also burned boards when I knew less about how much heat they can take and from what sort of soldering tool. That was the bad experience with a Heathkit clock--a plain digital clock. I had to send it back to them cuz it didn't work. I troubleshooted all the connections. It turned out that one diode had it's abc feet in the wrong holes. These are the nightmares I remember as a kid.
It's not like I've never done soldering. I've used solder wick to remove the stuff on a connection. I have my little soldering tool box with a low wattage iron
(30watt) in it. I worry about having to get silver solder which melts a lower temps than the electrical stuff available at the farm and fleet) which is what I use for interconnects.)
I've also burned boards when I knew less about how much heat they can take and from what sort of soldering tool. That was the bad experience with a Heathkit clock--a plain digital clock. I had to send it back to them cuz it didn't work. I troubleshooted all the connections. It turned out that one diode had it's abc feet in the wrong holes. These are the nightmares I remember as a kid.
standard dvd players
I don't want to get too far afield but my regular Sony stand alone dvd player works fine. How would the Sony or the Oppo get it's power using the DTA-1?
Is it possible to adjust the patch cords to do such a thing? If so then any off the shelf transport would be adequate for my needs.
BTW Darcy Skaggs has a great modding piece in an old Speakerbuilder/AudioXpress mag. He upgrades the shielding (using lead foil) and other things.
I don't want to get too far afield but my regular Sony stand alone dvd player works fine. How would the Sony or the Oppo get it's power using the DTA-1?
Is it possible to adjust the patch cords to do such a thing? If so then any off the shelf transport would be adequate for my needs.
BTW Darcy Skaggs has a great modding piece in an old Speakerbuilder/AudioXpress mag. He upgrades the shielding (using lead foil) and other things.
Tiny aren't they
To remove them just put a small solder blob on the tip of your iron and place it on the cap for a second or two, when you draw the iron away it should be stuck to the solder on your iron. 😉
Or get a solder sucker.... a priceless piece of kit in my opinion!
Good luck
I already have a solder sucker. I plan on buying some solder wick too.
If you don't mind me asking for a little more information, I would like to confirm a few things with you before going into surgery.
I plan on replacing the onboard DC plug. Should I use the old plug spot on the board or where the battery leads were soldered to? Is there any advantage one way or the other?
I plan on replacing the 4 inductors with Jameco torroids. But when I've seen other people do it they cover it in a skin or jacket. Should I do that, and if so where do I find the jacket?
It appears as though the input caps get replaced by way larger caps. Most people I've seen use shielded wire to connect the caps. Is it required to bring the caps further away from the board, or just a real estate issue? If possible, can solder the new caps directly onto the board without shielded wire extensions?
Thanks again for the great info Lostcause. Though I will continue my ignorance and ask for some clarification on the last bit.
I can't seem to find any place selling the suggested shielded micro coax online, is there a next best option?
Also, I assume when you say wrap the caps in copper tape... that I do not contact the leads of the caps at all. Meaning I simply wrap the body and stop there?
Hi patrick, yes you just need to shield them from the amp by either putting them in a seperate compartment or wrapping them. As you said, be careful not to short the leads when doing so.
As for the micro coax, good question, I have that much I haven't bought any for a few years. I got it from Maplin - a local supplier in the UK.
If you can't find any then just twist the +/- input wires together..... solid core CAT5 is good for this.
Good luck
One last question, if you don't mind. Thanks again for helping out a complete idiot.
I just received these inductors: http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=M8864-ND
Common sense tells me orientation doesn't matter with these. However one side of the magnet is painted darker than the other. I am wondering if these markings are there to indicate which way they should be oriented.
Hi Patrick, don't worry about orientation, like you surmised, it wont make any difference.
😱 OMG the christmas smilies have already appeared in the editor!!!!
I expected some posts here about this version (DTA-2) of the dayton T-amp. This is the same thing with no case and no powersupply right? for $20 this is just a caseless DTA-2 or is this a different amp?
so if I'm going to mod it then this is a better deal right?
so if I'm going to mod it then this is a better deal right?
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Yup, that's the one to get if you are going to re-case it anyway.
In fact, they should just sell the board as many people replace the pot as well.
I suppose they are selling it to make active speakers?
In fact, they should just sell the board as many people replace the pot as well.
I suppose they are selling it to make active speakers?
Glad this thread is going again. I have had my DTA1 now since the thread began but have not done anything to it yet. Some pics of the various mods as they are made will help.
If the pieces plus wire yoke are sold separately as DTA2 what kind of board work is needed to make that into a whole unit? The reason I ask is the dread of mucking one up and having it unusable.
If the pieces plus wire yoke are sold separately as DTA2 what kind of board work is needed to make that into a whole unit? The reason I ask is the dread of mucking one up and having it unusable.
I just saw this in the P.E. printed flyer. Cool! I ought to get one for the fun of it.
Maybe this month.
Maybe this month.
Yes, DTA2 is in the flier and DTA1 is on deal for $10 off the regular price.
For me the ideal "kit" is DTA1, Foobar2000 media player and your favorite Full range speaker build working through the computer.
There is a Foobar How to thread as well. FB2k is a powerful tool with many add-ins but I am using it plain vanilla without too much flashing on and off.
For me the ideal "kit" is DTA1, Foobar2000 media player and your favorite Full range speaker build working through the computer.
There is a Foobar How to thread as well. FB2k is a powerful tool with many add-ins but I am using it plain vanilla without too much flashing on and off.
Hi everybody!
I bought a Dayon DTA-1 and now I want to do the ,,stealth Mod,, as it can be seen on this page
Sonic/Tripath
But the boards of Sonic Impact and the Dayton are different. I saw the picture which was posted by Lostcause, but I`m not really shure what to bridge/remove.
Can anybody help?
..sorry for my bad english
I bought a Dayon DTA-1 and now I want to do the ,,stealth Mod,, as it can be seen on this page
Sonic/Tripath
But the boards of Sonic Impact and the Dayton are different. I saw the picture which was posted by Lostcause, but I`m not really shure what to bridge/remove.
Can anybody help?
..sorry for my bad english
Oh, the link doesn`t guide directly to the stealthmod. It can be found under ,,Input Mods,, on the left side of the navigation menue.
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