Funny, Burson asked me twice and gave up each time I ask a technical question or two...🤣 . Last one it was a week ago ! I should be too much critic.
Better to accept and ask them to write the "fair" review themselves....
Try the AD8597 aside the AD797 and tell me if you hear a difference 🙂 (haven't tried but suspect it is very hard to notice one)
Better to accept and ask them to write the "fair" review themselves....
Try the AD8597 aside the AD797 and tell me if you hear a difference 🙂 (haven't tried but suspect it is very hard to notice one)
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Putting together tube IV by Michelag, I noticed that filament voltage is about 7V DC using hammond 229b12. Transformers are designed for having 6.3V at a certain load. The 6DJ8 filament current is 365mA. Make sure you are not over-heating your expensive tubes.
That's a good point Mikhail, being a beginner with tubes I went with the default recommendation, I will try the LDO regulated supply by v4lve lover, he posted gerbers, I'll send a board if you want.
John sent me two V7 Vivid, they are here 🙂 stunning little things not sure what the deal is as far as ownership, no agreement made, in fact never heard back from him really. I guess they are mine? All very generous of him.
I can tell you from looking at them in the box, they are the best I have ever heard. That's it, review over. How easy was that?
😉
Yes this board works beautifully, and with very little heat emitted. I love it.
Good to know Tan, thanks.
The other option is to get another transformer made with 4.5V secondaries at around 500mA, would give a fraction over 6.3V DC
The other option is to get another transformer made with 4.5V secondaries at around 500mA, would give a fraction over 6.3V DC
Well damn it, looked at the 'chart' on the site and guessed. Really need both to be sure.
Hey,, I'm already a classic anyway....
😎
(Classic idiot.)
I'm just kidding. Tried in Line preamp V7 Vivid and V7 Classic, thanks to @Brijac . I like Classic better. It was the same with the V6. Purely subjective.
Here's a small story about my new Burson V7 dual opamps. As for the sound quality, I have no complaints, they sound better than the V6C. But there is another problem.
When I got them, I noticed that the sides were moving. I looked at what's happening, and I see that the internal transistors are in contact with the heatsink using thermal conducting paste, and the external transistors are in contact with the heatsinks with some soft thermal conductive pads. When I open it, those soft parts fall apart as if they were rotten, and the opamps are new. Thermal paste doesn't do the job either if something moves there. In addition, the PCBs were not parallel to the heatsink, meaning that there is no contact with the heatsink on the internal transistors regardless of the paste.
I take off everything carefully, clean it, put 4 pieces of suitable silicone thermal conductive pads and assemble everything. Now the pressure on the transistors is better, PCBs are parallel with heatsinks, the cooling is better and of course nothing moves anymore.
By the way, in the test preamp, I adjusted the heated opamps DC offset with those white trimmers to be below 1mV, it was over 10mV.
I don't know if I should tell the Burson boys about this? 🙄
When I got them, I noticed that the sides were moving. I looked at what's happening, and I see that the internal transistors are in contact with the heatsink using thermal conducting paste, and the external transistors are in contact with the heatsinks with some soft thermal conductive pads. When I open it, those soft parts fall apart as if they were rotten, and the opamps are new. Thermal paste doesn't do the job either if something moves there. In addition, the PCBs were not parallel to the heatsink, meaning that there is no contact with the heatsink on the internal transistors regardless of the paste.
I take off everything carefully, clean it, put 4 pieces of suitable silicone thermal conductive pads and assemble everything. Now the pressure on the transistors is better, PCBs are parallel with heatsinks, the cooling is better and of course nothing moves anymore.
By the way, in the test preamp, I adjusted the heated opamps DC offset with those white trimmers to be below 1mV, it was over 10mV.
I don't know if I should tell the Burson boys about this? 🙄
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Increase R1 in the PSU board, 0.6 or 0.75 ohm instead of 0.5R
It would be nice to have a regulator on that pcb with support for 6.3V and 12.6V. I don't think anything fancy is needed for an indirectly heated tube.
... or maybe it's overkill 🙂
... or maybe it's overkill 🙂
Lol, dunno why they asked mme twvice and gave up. The first time it was one or two year ago. I said I had no time. This tie I asked the main difference between the vivid and the classic and "John" didn't answered to 2 gentle questions, one of them was : what the one the team prefers ? lol ! Maybe this John was the intern marketing student of the month, dunno ?!
I don't want to sell my soul if the freedom I have to review it is the price of the said gift ! In fact it a win for them as people stay polite and not too much critic because the gift ! Very human behavior !
Honestly there is no to do it all. It is like caps and passive parts. People don't want to understand thann sometimes one part is good here and not good there and try to rank caps with an universal rank from the best to the worst !
You could make a daughter board to connect to the end. It is a simple kit, not universal. Really it is for 6DJ8. Pick a tube and stick to it I guess 😉
If the resistor is a deciding factor then little sockets might help, I've seen these on tube amps somewhere.
Try to stay at 6.1 V, best for long life of the heater, told me a tube Guru. And you won't notice difference at listening.
And +1 for @v4lve lover 🙂 👍
And +1 for @v4lve lover 🙂 👍
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