D/A input bit depth

Status
This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.
Jump to Latest
Mooly

Mooly

Administrator
Joined 2007
Paid Member
The metal bar is easy to remove, it's held by two plastic clips that simply slide out. There is a bit of neoprene sleeving on the end of each rail, to refit just press the rail down and push those clips back.
Don't know any sources of "new" good quality 12.4's now... loads of rubbish Chinese parts around.
 
Mooly

Mooly

Administrator
Joined 2007
Paid Member
Phasenoise said:
I'll drop you a message when I change one just to double check it. I wanted a backup for the draw motor and band and servo etc.. I'll have a look around the net when I have some more free time.
Click to expand...

The last place to have any genuine ones that I knew of was Donberg. You might be lucky, and if not the complete assembly then the pickup itself.
Drawer motors should never fail... belts are easy to get as a general spares item.
Spindle motors wear... the CDM12.4 has a little plastic spring under the platter to prevent the worn bearing "rattling" for want of better description. A dab of light grease (I know :) ) on the bearing on a new motor I find reduces detectable wear greatly... even after a few thousand hours use.
Sled motors should last indefinitely... it's the original grease that's the problem.
 
Phasenoise

Phasenoise

Member
Joined 2004
My machine was originally a Stage 6 and went back to Micromega in 1999 and had it's mech replaced. I have regreased it over the years using silicone grease, just the standard servisol stuff from maplin.

I bought the spare laser heads a few years back and they look to be the real deal, I was saving them for when my laser full goes, the odd skip I can live with. Like a mentioned the only real problem that needs looking at is the front panel buttons my open / close is quite bad now.
 
Mooly

Mooly

Administrator
Joined 2007
Paid Member
Swap the switch with one you don't use... Stage two has a double speed button etc... and use the remote to save wear and tear on them :)

I have one spare CDM12.4 pickup only... genuine one. The lasers last a long time.

I reckon on (honest) no audible skips per year, that's around 2 to 3 hours a day use. I removed and washed all the gears and rack and sparingly apply Electrolube "Special Plastics Grease"

Big problem with a lot of mechs... the platter isn't true running. Look at a disc edge on and rotate slowly. The platter on the Japanese 12.4 I am using is perfect... seen some rubbish Chinese stuff that are a mile out... and the pickups are rubbish too.
 
Phasenoise

Phasenoise

Member
Joined 2004
Yeah already thought of swaping switches, only can really get away with time and the old double speed button which does nothing when the player was converted to Drive 3 back in 1999.

In order of wear, Open/Close, Next, Prev, Play, Pause/stop.

I might try micromega see if they can sell me some switches :)
 
Mooly

Mooly

Administrator
Joined 2007
Paid Member
Can't really tell about the pickup... all the markings in the picture look OK.
Send them an email and ask directly... are these Philips or not as there are so many poor replacements around.
That's what I did, and they said genuine Philips, although that was 18 months or so back.

Those switches are "tact" switches,
Relays, Switches and Indicators | Switches | Tactile/Keyboard Switches
 
Phasenoise

Phasenoise

Member
Joined 2004
Just got one from donberg (47 notes including postage etc..), was more money but sounds like the real deal. I called the other place and he said they aren't the real deal :) See how it goes with the other one, at least if I stuff up fitting a new laser head then I have lots of spares now.

Now to get the switches and I'm golden :)
 
Status
This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.
Top Bottom