Hey guys, I have been posting all over trying to get this worked out. I have yet to get a solid answer. II have an older pair of at-15s that I really enjoy and I listen to them nearly every day. Blew out a tweeter a few days ago then decided maybe I will recap these crossovers.
Currently, my biggest issues are: 1. Removing tone control knobs to separate the board from mounting plate 2. Identification of the caps.
the blue cap is easy, 15uf 100v NP the two yellow caps II have yet to get an answer on. One yellow cap is pictured. It is "5m200v" on the other side there is a "7k200v" can anyone tell me what "5m" and "7k" mean? I'm told these are mylar caps and usually last for quite some time but can be replaced with some nice polypropylene film caps which I would like to do for all if possible. And if anyone can verify that the knobs are friction fit to a shaft or not would also be fantastic. Thank you very much for your time. Here are a few photos of what I am dealing with.
Currently, my biggest issues are: 1. Removing tone control knobs to separate the board from mounting plate 2. Identification of the caps.
the blue cap is easy, 15uf 100v NP the two yellow caps II have yet to get an answer on. One yellow cap is pictured. It is "5m200v" on the other side there is a "7k200v" can anyone tell me what "5m" and "7k" mean? I'm told these are mylar caps and usually last for quite some time but can be replaced with some nice polypropylene film caps which I would like to do for all if possible. And if anyone can verify that the knobs are friction fit to a shaft or not would also be fantastic. Thank you very much for your time. Here are a few photos of what I am dealing with.
M=20%, K=10%, J=5%, G=2%, F=1%
So you have a 5µF 20% Tecate Industries capacitor, and a 7µF 10% as well.
Buy 5.1µF (or 4.7µF) and 6.8µF in 5%, 150V or higher.
The knobs are generally a push-on fit on a split-knurled shaft, and should pull straight off (I use pliers with tape on the jaws).
Put a 211-2 lightbulb in series with the new tweeter so you don't nuke it again.
So you have a 5µF 20% Tecate Industries capacitor, and a 7µF 10% as well.
Buy 5.1µF (or 4.7µF) and 6.8µF in 5%, 150V or higher.
The knobs are generally a push-on fit on a split-knurled shaft, and should pull straight off (I use pliers with tape on the jaws).
Put a 211-2 lightbulb in series with the new tweeter so you don't nuke it again.
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Also, the tweeter actually had been sounding fine and then the other day just just quit working. I had taken it apart but had not seen anything internally to indicate the reason for failure.
"Also, the tweeter actually had been sounding fine and then the other day just just quit working."
It may have been a mechanical failure of the lead-out wire.
"For the lightbulb, I have not seen this done before. Would you happen to have a photo? "
It's been done for years by just about everybody.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_alQlfar4CY
It may have been a mechanical failure of the lead-out wire.
"For the lightbulb, I have not seen this done before. Would you happen to have a photo? "
It's been done for years by just about everybody.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_alQlfar4CY
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