I was wondering if it would be worth cutting into a tweeter faceplate to get a closer CTC to a dome mid with a large flange? (or into the mid flange, but it's metal not plastic in my case)
If one stays in the flat areas of the flanges, no tapers, and gets them even on the surface, maybe even fill the small gap with some material and sand it.
Would this be worthwhile to have a higher crossover point without significant vertical lobing?
If one stays in the flat areas of the flanges, no tapers, and gets them even on the surface, maybe even fill the small gap with some material and sand it.
Would this be worthwhile to have a higher crossover point without significant vertical lobing?
Hi,
It probably is, but you can get neo domes now that will mount far nearer
a dome mid than your typical 100mm domes. If the mid dome has a huge
flange it may still be worth cutting its flange back somewhat.
rgds, sreten.
It probably is, but you can get neo domes now that will mount far nearer
a dome mid than your typical 100mm domes. If the mid dome has a huge
flange it may still be worth cutting its flange back somewhat.
rgds, sreten.
While true, I had wanted to use a specific tweeter that I already own. Just trying to shoehorn them together a little, if you catch my meaning.
Hi,
Well then, for straightforward purposes perhaps cut/file straight edges
in both drivers, got to be easier than cutting curves. Though if you
have a router and the tweeter is plastic, and you have a jasper jig,
you can cut the tweeter routing out the mids recess, that is :
Rout the tweeter hole and mount the tweeter, then rout the mid hole.
rgds, sreten.
Well then, for straightforward purposes perhaps cut/file straight edges
in both drivers, got to be easier than cutting curves. Though if you
have a router and the tweeter is plastic, and you have a jasper jig,
you can cut the tweeter routing out the mids recess, that is :
Rout the tweeter hole and mount the tweeter, then rout the mid hole.
rgds, sreten.
most carbide tip router can do the job.
just need to do slowly and increse depth few times to make it smooth cut.
even an old bits will be sufficient.
what drivers are u using? i m planning to do the same to scan speak discov tweeter.
cheers
henry
just need to do slowly and increse depth few times to make it smooth cut.
even an old bits will be sufficient.
what drivers are u using? i m planning to do the same to scan speak discov tweeter.
cheers
henry
I don't know the answer, but can tell you I have everything sitting here to build the old Swan MTM system from Speaker Builder many years ago. They were quite insistent that the tweeters had to be cut down to keep the center distances correct, something I wouldn't have expected in a hobbyist oriented article. I've yet to build the thing, mostly because I fear wrecking an expensive and now hard to get Dynaudio tweeter- and I have a fairly well equipped machine shop.
The drivers are a Morel EM1308 and a Vifa XT25BG60-04.
I have a router, the tweeter is plastic, but I have no jasper jig. certainly not difficult to make one though.
I just don' feet like cutting into such an expensive mid's faceplate, same as Conrad here.
How sreten described the cutting is how I had envisioned it as well. The flat cut method would work as well if I were a braver man.
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=264-1012
I have a router, the tweeter is plastic, but I have no jasper jig. certainly not difficult to make one though.
I just don' feet like cutting into such an expensive mid's faceplate, same as Conrad here.
How sreten described the cutting is how I had envisioned it as well. The flat cut method would work as well if I were a braver man.
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=264-1012
I cut about 8mm from either side of a WaveCor 30mm dome tweeter,
As others have mentioned, machine it to match the frame of the woofer or mid you are using. I did it with a Dremel cutting disk and a hand file. The operation was successful but I was very careful... $70 for a tweeter makes one very careful!
Not sure if it mattered but I stopped the cut away when it was within 1mm of the faceplate starting to curve. Don't want to cut away any of the mini-waveguide--sealed the slight gap to the woofer frame with black caulk and it looks "stock". I made the C to C distance by 25Hz! 😱😀
As others have mentioned, machine it to match the frame of the woofer or mid you are using. I did it with a Dremel cutting disk and a hand file. The operation was successful but I was very careful... $70 for a tweeter makes one very careful!
Not sure if it mattered but I stopped the cut away when it was within 1mm of the faceplate starting to curve. Don't want to cut away any of the mini-waveguide--sealed the slight gap to the woofer frame with black caulk and it looks "stock". I made the C to C distance by 25Hz! 😱😀
I did it on my centre channel.
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