Nothing serious really. Few times I put my fingers when they not suppose to go, or a metal piece was pulled and went out of control, but all bruises healed and there are no permanenet damages left😉
i always have cuts and scrapes on my hands. i like the tactile feel of touching what im working, so i dont wear gloves. so, when brushing off a piece of metal i just cut or drilled, i will often catch a burr and slice up my hand, or get a metal barb stuck in my hand.
however, nothing serious has ever happened.
however, nothing serious has ever happened.
Not aimed at anyone in particular...
It's always a good practice NOT to wear gloves in any machine shop (or long sleeves for that matter). Sheet metal would be the exception, but never near rotating machinery (lathes, mills saws & grinders). Same goes for rings, bracelets and strong watch bands.
It's always a good practice NOT to wear gloves in any machine shop (or long sleeves for that matter). Sheet metal would be the exception, but never near rotating machinery (lathes, mills saws & grinders). Same goes for rings, bracelets and strong watch bands.
most importantly,
Guys and gals,
Listen hard to this rule. "Work safe." This also means with 'safe' tools and equipment!!! Any unsafe tools or equipment, even if its "not very" unsafe will probably hurt you or worse.
Happened to me, I know now,
GH
Guys and gals,
Listen hard to this rule. "Work safe." This also means with 'safe' tools and equipment!!! Any unsafe tools or equipment, even if its "not very" unsafe will probably hurt you or worse.
Happened to me, I know now,
GH
Ive been singing that song like a broken record here, to make people understand that before its too late....
In machining safety is a very big part of that actual job to be done. Creativity is great......just not in machining...creative people get hurt, sooner or later.
Everything can be done by the book with the right tools....if you dont have the right machines/- tools/-adequate experience level......its a "no can do".
Ive been machining for more than 20 years, Ive seen loads of people get hurt, even badly hurt. 99% of those didnt follow the simple guideline above. If people stick to the above guideline, you will have to be very unfortunate to get hurt....we are talking one in a million!!!
Magura🙂
In machining safety is a very big part of that actual job to be done. Creativity is great......just not in machining...creative people get hurt, sooner or later.
Everything can be done by the book with the right tools....if you dont have the right machines/- tools/-adequate experience level......its a "no can do".
Ive been machining for more than 20 years, Ive seen loads of people get hurt, even badly hurt. 99% of those didnt follow the simple guideline above. If people stick to the above guideline, you will have to be very unfortunate to get hurt....we are talking one in a million!!!
Magura🙂
woofer mounted with rubber gasket
I've been reading the loudspeaker design cookbook. Specifically the "driver mounting techniques" section. The author says to use rubber grommets under bolts, rubber nut type inserts and also a rubber gasket behind the woofer. I think this might not be a good idea. The author points out that it's used to dampen electic motors (the screws that is), but I think that mounting a woofer in rubber might not be a good idea. I think a woofer is better off mounted on something stiff. After all a woofer cone is suppose to create vibration you don't want to dampen it. Damping the basket/enclosure would dampen the woofer cone, since they're all connected I figure. Maybe the vibration damping the rubber provides to the enclosure outweighs the vibration damping it provides to the cone of the woofer. What do you people think?
I've been reading the loudspeaker design cookbook. Specifically the "driver mounting techniques" section. The author says to use rubber grommets under bolts, rubber nut type inserts and also a rubber gasket behind the woofer. I think this might not be a good idea. The author points out that it's used to dampen electic motors (the screws that is), but I think that mounting a woofer in rubber might not be a good idea. I think a woofer is better off mounted on something stiff. After all a woofer cone is suppose to create vibration you don't want to dampen it. Damping the basket/enclosure would dampen the woofer cone, since they're all connected I figure. Maybe the vibration damping the rubber provides to the enclosure outweighs the vibration damping it provides to the cone of the woofer. What do you people think?
Hmmm, maybe the gasket is there to seal the joint nicely, and to allow a bit of leeway in the accuracy and flatness of the two mating surfaces, stopping it from rattling etc. All the commercial speakers I've taken to bits have all had gaskets round the woofers, so I guess that's a good sign. Other than that I guess it would be quite good to try and decouple the woofer from the enclosure, so the sound comes from the driver/port combination and as little as possible from the enclosure.
Steve
Steve
Dang . . . I added some stuff after you wrote the post. You still think the same?
I would use a foam gasket, but not a elastic material like rubber. Decoupling to me means not only stopping vibration of the enclosure which is good, but woofer basket and woofer being allowed to move more freely, which is bad I think.
So you agree with this statement: the vibration damping the rubber provides to the enclosure outweighs the vibration damping it provides to the cone of the woofer? Or is it a totally bogus statement?
I would use a foam gasket, but not a elastic material like rubber. Decoupling to me means not only stopping vibration of the enclosure which is good, but woofer basket and woofer being allowed to move more freely, which is bad I think.
So you agree with this statement: the vibration damping the rubber provides to the enclosure outweighs the vibration damping it provides to the cone of the woofer? Or is it a totally bogus statement?
Yes I think it will always be a compromise between firm mounting of the woofer and reducing the vibration transmitted to the enclosure. I had a bit of a discussion with someone about this a while back here, starts at post #9
Either way I suppose it's not the kind of thing you would need to commit to forever, and could easily tinker round with different gasket materials etc.
Steve
Either way I suppose it's not the kind of thing you would need to commit to forever, and could easily tinker round with different gasket materials etc.
Steve
chipco3434 said:
so does this go for all rotating machinery - wood and metal? And to be specific - drill presses, miter saws, table saws, belt/disc sanders? How about portable tools such as circular saws and routers?
Yes it goes for everything rotating, since the reason for it is that the glove may get caught in the rotating tool and drag the hand with it into the tool.
Gloves are meant for blacksmiths and motorbike riders🙂
Magura🙂
Gloves are meant for blacksmiths and motorbike riders🙂
Magura🙂
I never like to wear gloves when working on anything . I only put them when it's really necessary. Gloves prevent you from having that special "feel" for what you are doing.
Yet I found those gloves very good for working with metal. Those are specialy designed for sheet metal and I don't really know where to get them. You can wear them for many hours without sweating and you still have the "feel" for what you are handling.
We used to get them at Bombardier.
Yet I found those gloves very good for working with metal. Those are specialy designed for sheet metal and I don't really know where to get them. You can wear them for many hours without sweating and you still have the "feel" for what you are handling.
We used to get them at Bombardier.
Attachments
IMO it would certainly apply to Skil saws and routers. The glove will not prtect you from the rotating tool or rotating workpiece. They will only protect you from "stationary" threats (sharp edges) If these tools catch a glove tip, I would wager that you will injure or remove a finger(s).
There is little downside risk to not wearing gloves. A splinter, a cut, or a gash... and perhaps the worst, unsightly callouses The alternative is needing two hands to order 5 beers.
In our Sea Scout unit, this is a fundamental rule that even applies to buffers. The second fundamental rule is having an escape route. When a load comes off a jack, when a lift comes out of a sling, or when a part gets spit out of a lathe or mill, which way will you go ~ and just as important, where will the dangerous object wind up. Hopefully, the object and the subject Scout don't wind up occupying the same time/space continuum.
Other fundamental rules...
1. Wear a life jacket on docks and on boats
2. Stay in the boat.
3. Don't hit nuthin'.
4. When in doubt, stay out.
5. Never step down into a life raft.
There is little downside risk to not wearing gloves. A splinter, a cut, or a gash... and perhaps the worst, unsightly callouses The alternative is needing two hands to order 5 beers.
In our Sea Scout unit, this is a fundamental rule that even applies to buffers. The second fundamental rule is having an escape route. When a load comes off a jack, when a lift comes out of a sling, or when a part gets spit out of a lathe or mill, which way will you go ~ and just as important, where will the dangerous object wind up. Hopefully, the object and the subject Scout don't wind up occupying the same time/space continuum.
Other fundamental rules...
1. Wear a life jacket on docks and on boats
2. Stay in the boat.
3. Don't hit nuthin'.
4. When in doubt, stay out.
5. Never step down into a life raft.
I also wear them for painting and epoxy work... generally. Some people are pretty alergic to these materials, but I'm not. Anyway, here's the story.
Been working on the boats using West system & barrier coat additive. It's some black nasty combination of silica and aluminum dust to mix with the epoxy. Add a dash of high copper anti-fouling bottom paint to the mix. Sunday morning, Communion, I'm a dipper, not a sipper. Sho 'nuf, drop the host in the wine. Now I have to dig in the chalice with my grubby epoxy fingers for the host. I am not easily embarrassed. Now I always wear gloves. Always.
Magura... do you wear rubber gloves when working with CuBe? I think that might be an exception... no reason to take that stuff home with you.
Been working on the boats using West system & barrier coat additive. It's some black nasty combination of silica and aluminum dust to mix with the epoxy. Add a dash of high copper anti-fouling bottom paint to the mix. Sunday morning, Communion, I'm a dipper, not a sipper. Sho 'nuf, drop the host in the wine. Now I have to dig in the chalice with my grubby epoxy fingers for the host. I am not easily embarrassed. Now I always wear gloves. Always.
Magura... do you wear rubber gloves when working with CuBe? I think that might be an exception... no reason to take that stuff home with you.
CuBe is not a problem as long as you dont machine it dry or heat it (wich is downright stupid to do), then the Be stays in the material.
Magura🙂
Magura🙂
Thinking of it, the only case where Im not sure the Be would stay in the material is in AlBeCuZn alloys....thats gotta be poisonous as he11.
Magura🙂
Magura🙂
thanks guys, great information as usual!
I must admit that I got a bit of a warning a few weeks ago when I was using my bench belt sander with gloves, and it sucked a glove finger tip between the belt and guard. Fortunately, the guard was adjusted to be extremely close the the belt as it is supposed to be and it just startled me instead of mashing my fingers.
I must admit that I got a bit of a warning a few weeks ago when I was using my bench belt sander with gloves, and it sucked a glove finger tip between the belt and guard. Fortunately, the guard was adjusted to be extremely close the the belt as it is supposed to be and it just startled me instead of mashing my fingers.
Hi,
I got a question (once again 🙂). I bought a 1m x 1m x 4mm aluminium plate yesterday out of which I'm going to a case for my amplifier.
The only powertool I've got is a Dremel. Is this sufficient to accurately cut the plate or should I get something else?
I got a question (once again 🙂). I bought a 1m x 1m x 4mm aluminium plate yesterday out of which I'm going to a case for my amplifier.
The only powertool I've got is a Dremel. Is this sufficient to accurately cut the plate or should I get something else?
Cutting aluminum with with a cutting wheel is not easy and the finish is very rough. You should also wear a face shield when doing this.
If you have a circular saw, attaching metal blade to it (or maybe even a regular wood blade with reasonable amount of teeth) would be probably a better choice. I'm not mentioniing a jig saw, which although won't provide best finish on a cut, is the safest approach.
If you have a circular saw, attaching metal blade to it (or maybe even a regular wood blade with reasonable amount of teeth) would be probably a better choice. I'm not mentioniing a jig saw, which although won't provide best finish on a cut, is the safest approach.
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