Stop laughing. I didn't do it.
I bought a box for no other reason than it cost £1. It's well made. It has a cut-out and recess for an 8-inch driver. In my box of random parts I only have a 7" driver. I've no chance of replacing the baffle as the owner used a lot glue.
Any ideas?
I bought a box for no other reason than it cost £1. It's well made. It has a cut-out and recess for an 8-inch driver. In my box of random parts I only have a 7" driver. I've no chance of replacing the baffle as the owner used a lot glue.
Any ideas?
What I most likely would do, descending:
1) Turf the box. Who cares if it was 1 pound if it doesn't match the Qts of your driver?
2) Rig it up to work using machine screws and fender washers to mechanically secure, seal it with some kind of gasket or weatherstrip or caulk, fill screw holes with glue and dowels.
3) Make an adapter out of thin hardwood board stock.
1) Turf the box. Who cares if it was 1 pound if it doesn't match the Qts of your driver?
2) Rig it up to work using machine screws and fender washers to mechanically secure, seal it with some kind of gasket or weatherstrip or caulk, fill screw holes with glue and dowels.
3) Make an adapter out of thin hardwood board stock.
Make a sort of MDF sandwich construction in 3 sections: 1) an 8/10 mm MDF circle in 2 halves, to be glued (and held in place during glueing with clamps) under the current hole, at the inside of the baffle. This sort of circular flange supports the insert part nr 2. The insert part nr 2 is the same thickness as the baffle minus rebate, just blarge enough to support the driver. The driver will be mounted on this second (baffle filler) part. The third part is the filler between the driver flange and the current oversize rebate. Should be made flush with the existing baffle. At the end all is fine and dandy.
Easy. Cut a circular disc to completely cover the existing opening, if that flange recess is of a significant depth cut a matching recess in your piece for a flush finish, if not don't worry about it. Glue that in place and when it's dry cut a hole the size you need.
More like the vents pass thru the intentional significantly large chamfer intended to (and it works) reduce the loudspeakers diffraction signature.
The trapezoidal shape also helps in that respect. This has been verified by comparing to the rectangular and CGR versions of the same alignment.
dave
The trapezoidal shape also helps in that respect. This has been verified by comparing to the rectangular and CGR versions of the same alignment.
dave
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Looking at that box, aesthetics don't seem to be a huge concern. So I would just glue a new square panel on top of the existing front, and bevel the sides of it to match whatever angle the existing sides are. Then you can make whatever sized driver-hole in it that you want.
If you feel it is worth it, anyway. A random spare driver in a random box aren't massively likely to pair well, especially as it looks to be a ported design, so you may need to be quite lucky. It is an odd shaped and fairly crude looking box, too; as if designed for someone else's quite specific situation.
If you feel it is worth it, anyway. A random spare driver in a random box aren't massively likely to pair well, especially as it looks to be a ported design, so you may need to be quite lucky. It is an odd shaped and fairly crude looking box, too; as if designed for someone else's quite specific situation.
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I would make new square front baffle, glue it to remaining box, just chisel out the edges.
To talk this guy or someone similarly skilled. Or buy a MDF adapter/spacer ring from eBay or Amazon.
https://www.crowncustomscaraudio.co.uk/products/8-mdf-speaker-ring-for-edge-edpro8b
PS: I do not know this person/business.
https://www.crowncustomscaraudio.co.uk/products/8-mdf-speaker-ring-for-edge-edpro8b
PS: I do not know this person/business.
I got it sorted the obvious way.
Cost so far £6.
Definitely more by luck than judgement, it sounds great! It sounds better than my 8" Tannoy, smoother, not so much off and on. Internal volume is 16.5 litres. Cabinet is tuned to 55hz.
I'll paint it tomorrow. Total cost will be £11. I've no idea what I'll do with it. It can't replace the Tannoy because it doesn't fit in the space.
Cost so far £6.
Definitely more by luck than judgement, it sounds great! It sounds better than my 8" Tannoy, smoother, not so much off and on. Internal volume is 16.5 litres. Cabinet is tuned to 55hz.
I'll paint it tomorrow. Total cost will be £11. I've no idea what I'll do with it. It can't replace the Tannoy because it doesn't fit in the space.
Nearly there . . .
Unfortunately, I've run out of paint! But the "Dumpster 2.1 MkII" is nearly there. A rub down and another coat and it'll be good to go. The good news: I've sold the 7" driver that didn't fit so, at the moment, the cost is in the negative.
It would be great for a workshop or a garage, unfortunately I don't have either.
Unfortunately, I've run out of paint! But the "Dumpster 2.1 MkII" is nearly there. A rub down and another coat and it'll be good to go. The good news: I've sold the 7" driver that didn't fit so, at the moment, the cost is in the negative.
It would be great for a workshop or a garage, unfortunately I don't have either.