Hi all,
soon I'll be going to a welder close to me who will make a copy of these stands (steel).
I noticed these spikes Dayton Audio DSS4-BK Black Speaker Spike Set 4 Pcs. and would like to use them.
However, I believe these silver parts are only for wooden cabinets. I would probably need to ask the welder to drill the holes at the bottom of the stands, make a screw thread and not use these silver threads at all.
Would it work this way?
How thick should the steel be (the stands will probably be made of hollow bars) in order not to bend easily?
Is there any other type of spikes one could recommend, especially if one could easily exchange spikes to rubber feet? The latter is not so important, but still not sure if the stands will be placed on hardwood floor or on the carpet.
Any other comment is more than welcome. Thanks and cheers!!!
soon I'll be going to a welder close to me who will make a copy of these stands (steel).
I noticed these spikes Dayton Audio DSS4-BK Black Speaker Spike Set 4 Pcs. and would like to use them.
However, I believe these silver parts are only for wooden cabinets. I would probably need to ask the welder to drill the holes at the bottom of the stands, make a screw thread and not use these silver threads at all.
Would it work this way?
How thick should the steel be (the stands will probably be made of hollow bars) in order not to bend easily?
Is there any other type of spikes one could recommend, especially if one could easily exchange spikes to rubber feet? The latter is not so important, but still not sure if the stands will be placed on hardwood floor or on the carpet.
Any other comment is more than welcome. Thanks and cheers!!!
Attachments
The welder can also weld a nut onto the bottom of the stands for those Dayton spikes.
You will probably want to use the highest gauge bars you can find not only because of structural reasons but because you would want to add some mass to these stands.
You will probably want to use the highest gauge bars you can find not only because of structural reasons but because you would want to add some mass to these stands.
Would it be wise to go with something like this?
https://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=10282&step=4&showunits=inches&id=844&top_cat=849
This is 1" full profile steel. Once the stands are finished they would weigh per my calculation around 38 pounds (17kg).
Maybe even 0.75" could do it.
https://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=10282&step=4&showunits=inches&id=844&top_cat=849
This is 1" full profile steel. Once the stands are finished they would weigh per my calculation around 38 pounds (17kg).
Maybe even 0.75" could do it.
Solid bar wont look as nice as hollow bar. Hollow bar has nice rounded corners and hollow bar is also much stronger than solid bar.
I understand, will need to do the weight recalculation.
Any suggestion where to leave a hole in case I decide to fill it with sand or rice?
Any suggestion where to leave a hole in case I decide to fill it with sand or rice?
Ok, even better. What about ringing? I read somewhere metal stands can ring. Should I worry about it?
Hmmm, I see that could be a problem if your stands are very tall. Ive never used stands tall enough to ring so I cant comment on that. In that case you would have to fill them with sand or if you don't mind the cosmetics of the solid bars you can use those and that would remove any ringing issues.
Yeah, not sure now.
The stands are 30" tall. In case of solid bars, I think they could be ordered with the round edges as well.
The stands are 30" tall. In case of solid bars, I think they could be ordered with the round edges as well.
Use either foam in a can intended for insulation gap filling or sand. Makes a difference for my stuff. Easy to try. Chicken soup.... It can't hurt.
I've been doing some more research and kitty litter seems to be a good option for filing the bars too, and it is cheap. 🙂
I will see with the welder what he has to say about the solid bars. To me they seem to be the best solution, but might be hard to work with.
I will see with the welder what he has to say about the solid bars. To me they seem to be the best solution, but might be hard to work with.
As someone with a bit of experience in both sound and fabrication, I'd say your better bet is hollow stock with sand to damp ringing. The spray foam would work, too. The solid bar stock is still quite capable of ringing and would need some external form of damping, not to mention being more difficult to weld.
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One of the welders I am in contact with suggested solid ones as he claimed the tubes would start rusting in a year or so. I am thought of going with the tubes, but now confused again. 🙂
I'm not sure what difference bar stock versus tube stock would make in rust resistance unless one was of a different metallurgy than the other, ie stainless versus mild steel. Solid stainless bar stock would be crazy expensive, btw. I would assume you're going to paint any steel stand that you have fabricated. Rustoleum primer and paint would do the trick to keep from rusting and it's not like you're going to keep your speakers in a wet environment anyways. If you desire the bare metal look, I would suggest wiping the stands down with a rag dampened with chainsaw bar oil. The better brands cling very well and have rust inhibitors blended in.
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It is harder to weld tubing well. But I think I can tell you where to find rust. Look in that guy's ears...
I've owned a series of Sound Organization equipment, speaker and wall mounted turntable stands over the years - some are currently 25+, and none have ever rusted when used in a home with normal humidity and not exposed to the elements or flooded basement 🙁
They are fabricated from hollow mild steel, with either epoxy or powder coat finish.
Kitty litter is fine for larger diameter cross sections and irregular shaped voids in speaker cabinets, but the granularity might be too large to fully fill the meal tubes. On the Sound Org tables I used a combination of lead buck-shot (that's how long ago that was) and coarse dried silica sand as for aquariums. More recently I found a "sand-blasting" media that is essentially crushed / tumbled glass beads to work well and is readily available at construction material wholesalers in 50lb bags IIRC.
I'd have any filling holes machined into the top plate, which could then be covered with something like FastCap brand cover caps. Lotsa great products in their catalog.
FastCap - 888-443-3748 - FastCap - Woodworking Tools
They are fabricated from hollow mild steel, with either epoxy or powder coat finish.
Kitty litter is fine for larger diameter cross sections and irregular shaped voids in speaker cabinets, but the granularity might be too large to fully fill the meal tubes. On the Sound Org tables I used a combination of lead buck-shot (that's how long ago that was) and coarse dried silica sand as for aquariums. More recently I found a "sand-blasting" media that is essentially crushed / tumbled glass beads to work well and is readily available at construction material wholesalers in 50lb bags IIRC.
I'd have any filling holes machined into the top plate, which could then be covered with something like FastCap brand cover caps. Lotsa great products in their catalog.
FastCap - 888-443-3748 - FastCap - Woodworking Tools
Nice looking speaker stands.
Nice looking speaker stands.
I teach pipe welding.
That material is called square tube. You can buy thicker wall material called square pipe (yes really). Solid bar stock is over the top unnecessary. If you want to add mass and dampening have the fabricator add a threaded ½ inch half coupling on the bottom so you can fill the assembly with dry sand or rice then screw in a ½ inch pipe plug. Rust is not an issue, as in no water no rust.
About rust: fire sprinkler pipe, the thin wall stuff with threads, the metric is CRR Corrosion Resistance Ratio. The pipe system is filled and tested with water, for freezing locations the water is drained and the system is filled with compressed air. The compressed air and residual water causes interior rust, perhaps years later the pipe will rust through at the thinnest location, at the threads. Remember no water, no chemistry and no rust.
Prior to filling the assembly with sand take it down to the painter and have it sandblasted down to bare metal and painted with your choice of colors and gloss or texture.
DT
Nice looking speaker stands.
I teach pipe welding.
That material is called square tube. You can buy thicker wall material called square pipe (yes really). Solid bar stock is over the top unnecessary. If you want to add mass and dampening have the fabricator add a threaded ½ inch half coupling on the bottom so you can fill the assembly with dry sand or rice then screw in a ½ inch pipe plug. Rust is not an issue, as in no water no rust.
About rust: fire sprinkler pipe, the thin wall stuff with threads, the metric is CRR Corrosion Resistance Ratio. The pipe system is filled and tested with water, for freezing locations the water is drained and the system is filled with compressed air. The compressed air and residual water causes interior rust, perhaps years later the pipe will rust through at the thinnest location, at the threads. Remember no water, no chemistry and no rust.
Prior to filling the assembly with sand take it down to the painter and have it sandblasted down to bare metal and painted with your choice of colors and gloss or texture.
DT
I guess I am all set now. There is actually one more (hopefully last) thing to ask. 😱
In the first post I mentioned these spikes Dayton Audio DSS4-BK Black Speaker Spike Set 4 Pcs.
I wondered if the intention of the spike tip which can be unscrewed is to be used on hardwood floors, correct?
In my current place the speakers will be next to the wall and pulled out for listening, so this would be a good feature not to scratch the floor when pulling them in an out.
The other option would be to have a second set of spikes/feet, but made of rubber which will be used while the speakers are in this room and go through this "push pull" mode. In case of the latter, could someone recommend any, please?
In the first post I mentioned these spikes Dayton Audio DSS4-BK Black Speaker Spike Set 4 Pcs.
I wondered if the intention of the spike tip which can be unscrewed is to be used on hardwood floors, correct?
In my current place the speakers will be next to the wall and pulled out for listening, so this would be a good feature not to scratch the floor when pulling them in an out.
The other option would be to have a second set of spikes/feet, but made of rubber which will be used while the speakers are in this room and go through this "push pull" mode. In case of the latter, could someone recommend any, please?
Attachments
The tips of the spikes are for height adjustment to compensate for uneven floors. If you plan to use these on hardwood floors you can get metal disc for the spikes to rest on. You can find them on ebay
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