Hi everyone.
I 've built a "bulb" tester with a tangsten halogen tube lamp (R7S). According to an electrician friend halogen lamps are similar to incandescent lamps and much easier to find.
Is that correct, do they work and do they offer similar protection if you use them in a simple bulb tester circuit?
Another issues is that, I 've used a 500W lamp for this first built and whenever I plug amps (even a large guitar amp) and other audio devices, just for testing the "tester", there is no glow or dimming and the devices work normally.
But when I plug something much more power consuming, like a radiator (1800W) then the bulb glows instantly and the radiator hardly powers up.
So am I right to assume that the bulb is too big for the lower current audio devices (60W guitar tube amp, solid state audio and guitar amps etc.) to function properly in series?
What the correct wattage would be for 230V outlet?
50W -100W like the incandescent ones or even less?
Thanks in advance
I 've built a "bulb" tester with a tangsten halogen tube lamp (R7S). According to an electrician friend halogen lamps are similar to incandescent lamps and much easier to find.
Is that correct, do they work and do they offer similar protection if you use them in a simple bulb tester circuit?
Another issues is that, I 've used a 500W lamp for this first built and whenever I plug amps (even a large guitar amp) and other audio devices, just for testing the "tester", there is no glow or dimming and the devices work normally.
But when I plug something much more power consuming, like a radiator (1800W) then the bulb glows instantly and the radiator hardly powers up.
So am I right to assume that the bulb is too big for the lower current audio devices (60W guitar tube amp, solid state audio and guitar amps etc.) to function properly in series?
What the correct wattage would be for 230V outlet?
50W -100W like the incandescent ones or even less?
Thanks in advance
Yes, for small amps and such start with a 50 watt lamp, not 500. Regular incandescent lamps are now rare, but there are plenty of "rough service" lamps, and "appliance" lamps, not to mention things like those reflector "heat lamp" types. We don't care what they look like or what light they emit, we just want them as a load.
Learning about basic electricity is mandatory before even attempting to do any type of repairs to electronic equipment, and being successful.
And the learning must include safety awareness.
It appears that tedsorvino1 needs this, since he doesn't understand Ohm Laws and the theory behind basic, simple electricity.
Pick up a book, there are many out there, and online, read, comprehend, understand - it takes quite a while.
And the learning must include safety awareness.
It appears that tedsorvino1 needs this, since he doesn't understand Ohm Laws and the theory behind basic, simple electricity.
Pick up a book, there are many out there, and online, read, comprehend, understand - it takes quite a while.
Thanks for the advice wiseoldtech. I know basic ohm's and kirchhoff, I study and learn as much as possible and I build stuff on the side. It takes time but it's rewarding.
What I'm trying to figure out now is if I can replace incandescent lamp with tungsten halogen for the dim bulb tester, after an electrician's suggestion. Any idea?
What I'm trying to figure out now is if I can replace incandescent lamp with tungsten halogen for the dim bulb tester, after an electrician's suggestion. Any idea?
As Enzo suggested, a wattage of 50 to 60 watts is appropriate for most testing.
For increased versatility, a second bulb can be switched in (parallel) for heavier loads. (60+60=120W)
For increased versatility, a second bulb can be switched in (parallel) for heavier loads. (60+60=120W)
Thanks again. I'm not asking for the wattage anymore. It's perfectly clear. What I'm asking is if halogen tubes are ok for the tester instead of incandescent. They are easier to find and they work in a similar way as I'm told by an electrician. What do you think?
I believe you can use them interchangeably
Halogen lamp - Wikipedia
I suspect their resistance will increase a bit more dramatically than traditional bulbs but should behave in a similar fashion
Halogen lamp - Wikipedia
I suspect their resistance will increase a bit more dramatically than traditional bulbs but should behave in a similar fashion
Thank you very much BSST. Much easier to find and I 've already built one based on such a tube lamp. So I have to try a tube of about 100W (considering I'm based in a 230V country).
Thank you all for the advice and info.
Thank you all for the advice and info.
The wattage should be similar regardless of line voltage. A 240V lamp will have 4X the resistance of a 120V lamp but the wattage would be the same. So the current limiting proportional to power draw should be similar. Adding a kill-A-Watt meter between the lamp and the mains will give a very quick indication of the current and power. If something is abnormal the lamp will prevent big problems and you can turn off the power.