Css Fr125
I have a pair of the FR125 drivers sitting around, which haven't seen much of the light of day. (As a note, don't think they're the new version) I am thinking of doing something with them. My initial thought is a small sealed box with a smaller woofer or two in a taller box down below. Could also use them OB with a box below. I'd like to try to keep a narrower profile with these. Would like to run the 125 without a crossover, if possible.
I haven't listened to these yet, but assuming they aren't as fast as the lighter cone / surround drivers, but could be wrong.
I'd like to keep these on the smaller side, so I'd prefer not to go with a giant woofer. Use will be varied, tv and movies, as well as music, but nothing too serious. I will most likely just run these with a Harmon Kardon integrated piece I have. Thinking I could to an inexpensive plate amp for the woofers, if that would make sense. I'd prefer they run without a sub.
At this point, these won't be backed up against a wall. Right now, they would be positioned out in the basement. Hardly ideal, but I also don't expect perfection. If the woofers are vented, it seems to make the most sense to have a front port.
With that, any thoughts on a good combo of the FR125 to a woofer? I am thinking I could run 2 below, if that would make sense.
Any thoughts are appreciated. I've been trying to get this posted for some time, but have been over the top busy. I'll be out of town for a couple days after today, but will do what I can to keep an eye out for replies.
Many thanks in advance!
I have a pair of the FR125 drivers sitting around, which haven't seen much of the light of day. (As a note, don't think they're the new version) I am thinking of doing something with them. My initial thought is a small sealed box with a smaller woofer or two in a taller box down below. Could also use them OB with a box below. I'd like to try to keep a narrower profile with these. Would like to run the 125 without a crossover, if possible.
I haven't listened to these yet, but assuming they aren't as fast as the lighter cone / surround drivers, but could be wrong.
I'd like to keep these on the smaller side, so I'd prefer not to go with a giant woofer. Use will be varied, tv and movies, as well as music, but nothing too serious. I will most likely just run these with a Harmon Kardon integrated piece I have. Thinking I could to an inexpensive plate amp for the woofers, if that would make sense. I'd prefer they run without a sub.
At this point, these won't be backed up against a wall. Right now, they would be positioned out in the basement. Hardly ideal, but I also don't expect perfection. If the woofers are vented, it seems to make the most sense to have a front port.
With that, any thoughts on a good combo of the FR125 to a woofer? I am thinking I could run 2 below, if that would make sense.
Any thoughts are appreciated. I've been trying to get this posted for some time, but have been over the top busy. I'll be out of town for a couple days after today, but will do what I can to keep an eye out for replies.
Many thanks in advance!
If budget permits, a single CSS SDX7 would be my first suggestion in combination with the FR125, and can be fit in a pretty teeny box. Mounted on the side panel, you can get them in a tower skinny enough that fitting a plate amp would be the biggest challenge.
In which case an outboard bass amp can relieve that constraint:
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?Partnumber=300-812
For a smaller budget,($30 ea) the Silver Flute 6" from Madisound is another great contender.
In either case, I'd think about a hi-pass filter on the FR125, - even though it has amazing low end FR and excursion for a 4" driver, it definitely has a limit, and you'd likely notice substantially improved mid-bass and lower midrange transparency and articulation, as attaining higher SPLs, by relieving it of heavy lifting in the lowest 2 octaves or so.
In which case an outboard bass amp can relieve that constraint:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?Partnumber=300-812
For a smaller budget,($30 ea) the Silver Flute 6" from Madisound is another great contender.
In either case, I'd think about a hi-pass filter on the FR125, - even though it has amazing low end FR and excursion for a 4" driver, it definitely has a limit, and you'd likely notice substantially improved mid-bass and lower midrange transparency and articulation, as attaining higher SPLs, by relieving it of heavy lifting in the lowest 2 octaves or so.
chrisb said:
In either case, I'd think about a hi-pass filter on the FR125, - even though it has amazing low end FR and excursion for a 4" driver, it definitely has a limit, and you'd likely notice substantially improved mid-bass and lower midrange transparency and articulation, as attaining higher SPLs, by relieving it of heavy lifting in the lowest 2 octaves or so.
planet10 said:Start with the 4 1/2 litre aperiodic box (a couple variations in the p10-hifi box library), add a 1st order PLLXO to the driving amplifier.
dave
If the HK integrated amp doesn't have pre - main connections, would the PLLXO work on a tape monitor loop?
chrisb said:If the HK integrated amp doesn't have pre - main connections, would the PLLXO work on a tape monitor loop? [/B]
Yes
dave
I did post a response earlier, but it seems to have vanished.
Anyway, thank you for the thoughts. The CSS driver seems to make sense.
Is there an advantage to having the driver on the side vs. the front, aside from the obvious size advantage? I'm asking only because with the strange placement, I wonder if the front would project a bit better. Unsure about this.
If I do a front placement with 1.5" from the box edges to the inside edges of the driver, I can do about a 10.25" width for the speaker. Not too bad. Can go narrower the other way, if that makes more sense.
Dave, I'll look into your box for the top. Do you gents feel it's a good idea to run the woofer sealed? CSS has a sheet that offers some box plans for sealed, one being the woofer in a sealed box below with a smaller satellite on top, similar to what I've been considering. (I tried to attach it previously, must have meant the demise of my post) Could do both boxes sealed.
Thank you for the suggestions.
Anyway, thank you for the thoughts. The CSS driver seems to make sense.
Is there an advantage to having the driver on the side vs. the front, aside from the obvious size advantage? I'm asking only because with the strange placement, I wonder if the front would project a bit better. Unsure about this.
If I do a front placement with 1.5" from the box edges to the inside edges of the driver, I can do about a 10.25" width for the speaker. Not too bad. Can go narrower the other way, if that makes more sense.
Dave, I'll look into your box for the top. Do you gents feel it's a good idea to run the woofer sealed? CSS has a sheet that offers some box plans for sealed, one being the woofer in a sealed box below with a smaller satellite on top, similar to what I've been considering. (I tried to attach it previously, must have meant the demise of my post) Could do both boxes sealed.
Thank you for the suggestions.
planet10 said:Start with the 4 1/2 litre aperiodic box (a couple variations in the p10-hifi box library), add a 1st order PLLXO to the driving amplifier.
dave
Dave, how would this work? I understand adding a crossover to the driver in the box, but wondering if that's what you have in mind here?
Thanks!
Layne
one1speed said:
Dave, how would this work? I understand adding a crossover to the driver in the box, but wondering if that's what you have in mind here?
Thanks!
Layne
Layne - not the only technical article on the subject, but a good place to start;
http://www.t-linespeakers.org/tech/filters/passiveHLxo.html
think "little black box" with passive components (R/C only in this case) - when dedicated to a specific XO hinge point and slope, these can be very simple, cheap and quite effective. The plastic box (and connectors if you don't hard wire it) could cost more than the components.
operates on the signal a line level - before the final power amp stage
it's even possible to include the filter on the input stage of a power amp (which I've done with great success) - but of course with out a bypass renders the amp ess than full range
KT said:How are the "new" and "old" versions of the FR125 different?
They are as close together as was possible within the madate to make the drivers RoHS compliant. The biggest difference is likely the 4 spoke basket as opposed to the old 6 spoke one. The newer one leaves more air between between the cone and the world on the other side of the basket.
dave
KT said:Is one version preferable to the other?
We built the 2nd one (slanted back with multiple holes). Both should work fine... multiple holes is a bit easier to tune, vrs the slot.
dave
KT said:Thanks for the information, Dave.
Is one version preferable to the other?
Best,
KT
planet10 said:
We built the 2nd one (slanted back with multiple holes). Both should work fine... multiple holes is a bit easier to tune, vrs the slot.
dave
he might have been referring to the drivers?
chrisb said:he might have been referring to the drivers?
duhh... my favorite is the one i have in hand.... not really enuff difference to sweat it. You can only buy the RoHS ones new now.
dave
Oh, yeah, I did mean the drivers.
I'm sure I'll be happy once I get the ones I have boxed up. I've been sitting on them for a while looking for time to build. Sometime soon, hopefully.
BTW, when you said "the one I have in hand," did you mean the old or new? Just curious.
Thanks,
KT
I'm sure I'll be happy once I get the ones I have boxed up. I've been sitting on them for a while looking for time to build. Sometime soon, hopefully.
BTW, when you said "the one I have in hand," did you mean the old or new? Just curious.
Thanks,
KT
KT said:BTW, when you said "the one I have in hand," did you mean the old or new? Just curious.
I have a set of each. And some WRs.
dave
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