I have a Crown CTs 2000 install amp that's not working. When I turn it on the Power LED comes on for a moment, then the Power and L/R Clip LEDs all flash simultaneously. None of the other LEDs ever light, there is no audible relay click, and the fans do not spin. The Bridge mode LED will light if I boot the amp in Mono mode.
Crown wants me to ship it to them but it hasn't been used in a few years and is certainly out of warranty. Any ideas? Is she toast? 🙁
Manual: http://www.crownaudio.com/media/pdf/amps/137000.pdf
Crown wants me to ship it to them but it hasn't been used in a few years and is certainly out of warranty. Any ideas? Is she toast? 🙁
Manual: http://www.crownaudio.com/media/pdf/amps/137000.pdf
Refer to the DC voltages in the Service Manual. I expect either a rail is down or a DC offset at the output stage is the issue.
It is a switching amp. Normally a flat rate charge of around $300.00 to fix. Ask & decide. I buy spares off eBay.
Crown quoted me $271 to "troubleshoot" the issue. That's about what it's worth on eBay and I'd imagine there's no guarantee I'll get it back. The power supply is way more complex than I could ever hope to understand much less troubleshoot. Sounds like I may just need to cut my losses.
Looking at the service manual I think I'll have another look at the startup relay. I don't hear anything click at all on startup so if there is no rectifier output then the problem is upstream from there.
Thanks for the input guys.
Looking at the service manual I think I'll have another look at the startup relay. I don't hear anything click at all on startup so if there is no rectifier output then the problem is upstream from there.
Thanks for the input guys.
I wouldn't monkey with a switching supply amp, or a Class H, T, D amp with digital sound generation. I've tried to fix PCAT power supplies (switchers) with no success yet.
Downloaded the switch schematic, look at that mess of 6 each 4052's in parallel driving the push pull transistors. No output current sharing resistors. Stupid IMHO, Peavey used a dedicated fet driver with one part in the CS800s.
Buy something else or pay crown's fare, or try one of the shops that post here all the time (hint hint). Not me I wouldn't touch this if it were mine.
Downloaded the switch schematic, look at that mess of 6 each 4052's in parallel driving the push pull transistors. No output current sharing resistors. Stupid IMHO, Peavey used a dedicated fet driver with one part in the CS800s.
Buy something else or pay crown's fare, or try one of the shops that post here all the time (hint hint). Not me I wouldn't touch this if it were mine.
Not sure why, but if I firmly press and hold the power button the amp will boot and light the Ready LED.,,when I let go quickly, the amp dies about 50% of the time...let go slowly and it will stay powered up. Maybe a faulty switch? I haven't tried it with signal yet because I only stabbed the button in frustration this morning as I was leaving for work. Will play more when I get home. 🙂
I'll take your advice and not stick my fingers into the SMPS!
I'll take your advice and not stick my fingers into the SMPS!
Probably not the switch itself - but something in the power-on sequencing may be out of whack. Proabably trace it back to a leaky electrolytic on a 555 timer or something silly like that.
The problem is not the part itself which may cost 50 cents, but FINDING it.
Which adds some $499.50 to the repair cost.
Just send it to Crown and be certain you'll get a refurbished as good as new amp, because they will not only repair the specific fault you are complaining about but clean, adjust, etc. and replace any obvious problems, even if unasked (such as intermittent power switches, frayed power cords, etc).
The $299 EBay one may work (sometimes not even that) and not much else.
Which adds some $499.50 to the repair cost.
Just send it to Crown and be certain you'll get a refurbished as good as new amp, because they will not only repair the specific fault you are complaining about but clean, adjust, etc. and replace any obvious problems, even if unasked (such as intermittent power switches, frayed power cords, etc).
The $299 EBay one may work (sometimes not even that) and not much else.
Yes, if there's a 555 with a leaky electrolytic capacitor in the timing circuit, the timer may not even ever trigger, as the voltage will not go high enough. This has happened to me.
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