Hello, new to this forum. I was glad to find it as I'm wanting to tinker with stuff now.
Right now I have a Denon DVD-2910 feeding a Adcom pre 450 I think, going to a Adcom GFA-545 MKII amp feeding a pair of Paradigm Monitor 7 V2's. I have not been too happy with the sound lately. I replaced the diaphragms on the tweeters about a years ago.
Anyways here are my concerns.
I took the crossovers out of my Paradigms and used a volt meter to measure the resistance . When I measured the upper posts for the highs I got no reading. (by the way, the tweeter has its own board, and the woofers have their own boards) The lower post for the woofers gave me about 4 ohms. So I took the tweeter out and measured direct and got just over 3 ohms. I then measured the wires coming off the crossover to the tweeter and got about the same reading of 3 ohms. I plugged the amp up to the upper posts for the tweeters and they work, but I can not get any resistance or continuity from the posts. I also tried under the posts where they are soldered to the crossover input. The only place I get a resistance or continuity is after the crossover on the wire leads to the tweeters.
Next I check for continuity on the all the components on the crossovers for the tweeters. The white square blocks i assumed were resistors? They all checked out. Then I checked the cap. I could not get a reading on the cap. I tried the cap for the woofers and it gave me a reading. But not for the tweeter cap. It looks like they used Benin caps. Not sure of the spelling. But should I not get a reading from the cap?
After I was done with one I checked the other speaker, same exact thing. But I did notice a difference on the board. The first crossover I took out has an extra resistor (White Block) soldered to another resistor. Please correct me if i'm wrong but should both crossovers be identical????
Any thoughts?
Thanks
Right now I have a Denon DVD-2910 feeding a Adcom pre 450 I think, going to a Adcom GFA-545 MKII amp feeding a pair of Paradigm Monitor 7 V2's. I have not been too happy with the sound lately. I replaced the diaphragms on the tweeters about a years ago.
Anyways here are my concerns.
I took the crossovers out of my Paradigms and used a volt meter to measure the resistance . When I measured the upper posts for the highs I got no reading. (by the way, the tweeter has its own board, and the woofers have their own boards) The lower post for the woofers gave me about 4 ohms. So I took the tweeter out and measured direct and got just over 3 ohms. I then measured the wires coming off the crossover to the tweeter and got about the same reading of 3 ohms. I plugged the amp up to the upper posts for the tweeters and they work, but I can not get any resistance or continuity from the posts. I also tried under the posts where they are soldered to the crossover input. The only place I get a resistance or continuity is after the crossover on the wire leads to the tweeters.
Next I check for continuity on the all the components on the crossovers for the tweeters. The white square blocks i assumed were resistors? They all checked out. Then I checked the cap. I could not get a reading on the cap. I tried the cap for the woofers and it gave me a reading. But not for the tweeter cap. It looks like they used Benin caps. Not sure of the spelling. But should I not get a reading from the cap?
After I was done with one I checked the other speaker, same exact thing. But I did notice a difference on the board. The first crossover I took out has an extra resistor (White Block) soldered to another resistor. Please correct me if i'm wrong but should both crossovers be identical????
Any thoughts?
Thanks
The good of crossovers (power crossovers ,thou the same can be said of line level crossovers) is that they have only 3 kind of electrical components to work;resistances are used to trim drivers' gain or used in some compensation cell ;capacitors and coils (inductance) let pass only high or low frequencies.
The reason why you measure open circuit on the tweeter cross it is that a capacitor (that's its duty :in series is an high-pass ) has two non-touching surfaces . You need a tester with capacitance reading .
Aren't you satisfied by the overall sound or is just about time to see what's inside the box ?😉
The reason why you measure open circuit on the tweeter cross it is that a capacitor (that's its duty :in series is an high-pass ) has two non-touching surfaces . You need a tester with capacitance reading .
Aren't you satisfied by the overall sound or is just about time to see what's inside the box ?😉
Ok, So I went back in and took a closer look at them in better light. This is what I found. The serial numbers are 48327 and 48329 so they are close enough they should have the same parts. Or so I thought.
On 48327
I have on the tweeter board a 15w5r6 with a 5w5r6 soldered to it.
Next to that on the same tweeter board sits a 10w1r8.
The cap is Bennic Bi-Polar 4 mfd 100wv. Thoes are the only makings besides some temperature/vent numbers.
Also near the cap is a tiny resistor, or at least I think it is a resistor, round, small brown with I think some color strips on it.
The Low pass crossover has a 10w3r3.
The cap is Bennic 18 MFD 100wv.
The low pass crossovers are identical in both speakers.
Now speaker 48329 tweeter crossover has different parts. It's as follows.
It has a 15w2r7
Next to that sits a 10w1r8
The Cap is a Hanlan 4uf 100v BP+-10%
There is no tiny resistor as on the other speaker.
Do you think not having matching hi pass, im loosing out on SQ, or imaging?
On 48327
I have on the tweeter board a 15w5r6 with a 5w5r6 soldered to it.
Next to that on the same tweeter board sits a 10w1r8.
The cap is Bennic Bi-Polar 4 mfd 100wv. Thoes are the only makings besides some temperature/vent numbers.
Also near the cap is a tiny resistor, or at least I think it is a resistor, round, small brown with I think some color strips on it.
The Low pass crossover has a 10w3r3.
The cap is Bennic 18 MFD 100wv.
The low pass crossovers are identical in both speakers.
Now speaker 48329 tweeter crossover has different parts. It's as follows.
It has a 15w2r7
Next to that sits a 10w1r8
The Cap is a Hanlan 4uf 100v BP+-10%
There is no tiny resistor as on the other speaker.
Do you think not having matching hi pass, im loosing out on SQ, or imaging?
One more thing, I see what you said about the open circuit on the cap. But why would I be able to show a closed circuit on the low pass cap but a open on the hi pass cap? Are my low pass caps possible failing? Which might be a good thing, then I would have to upgrade them right?
I just read a well made review on these speakers (google-mania)
Audio Ideas Guide Hi-Fi and Home Theater Equipment Reviews: Paradigm Monitor 7 v2
Alert on the last period :"...and I recommend it highly for its low price and good looks, especially for a home theatre system, where its accuracy and dynamic capability will stand out."
I usually catalog my finished projects under "HT" when they don't convince me !
One thing I must say ,is the reflex port on the front : it might bring audible nastiness that comes from drivers' interactions inside the box.
Audio Ideas Guide Hi-Fi and Home Theater Equipment Reviews: Paradigm Monitor 7 v2
Alert on the last period :"...and I recommend it highly for its low price and good looks, especially for a home theatre system, where its accuracy and dynamic capability will stand out."
I usually catalog my finished projects under "HT" when they don't convince me !
One thing I must say ,is the reflex port on the front : it might bring audible nastiness that comes from drivers' interactions inside the box.
Thanks for the link. I've never seen that article. I'm going to use these paradigm to experiment with, before I try a true DYI speaker.
It is a good start ,could be used for paradigm😱
A few knife touches ,and they would look so woooonderful with those new ogival additions in the center ! 😀
Bye!
A few knife touches ,and they would look so woooonderful with those new ogival additions in the center ! 😀
Bye!
Because on the tweeter the cap is in series so blocks the DC reading your meter is trying to take. On the woofer the cap is in parallel so the meter still sees the way to the woofer.
It's normal and your caps are fine.
What do you mean by matching? If they are the original crossovers for the speakers they will be the same.
They both look OEM and have the correct markings but there are different parts and values between the hi pass Xovers. I dont know if the original owner changed one and not the other??
I went into detail on post #4 with a break down of the parts and values used.
I did shoot Paradigm a Email to find out wich one is OEM, and to find out what a matched pair would cost.
OK read that post now. I'd say they had a stock issue and couldn't get the correct 15W 2.7R resistor so made a close match by paralleling the two 5.6R ones. Pretty poor if you ask me.
Not sure what the small part could be. You could desolder it and measure it to be sure, but I doubt it has much effect in the circuit. Maybe that's why they left it out in the later board.
If you want to be pedantic you could buy two new 15W 2.7R resistors and two new 4uF caps and replace both crossovers to match.
Not sure what the small part could be. You could desolder it and measure it to be sure, but I doubt it has much effect in the circuit. Maybe that's why they left it out in the later board.
If you want to be pedantic you could buy two new 15W 2.7R resistors and two new 4uF caps and replace both crossovers to match.
Thanks Richie. I just got off the phone with Paradigm and they want $70 each for the hi pass crossovers. I'm thinking I can rebiuld mine with stuff from Sonicaps for a bit cheaper.
For another upgrade I was thinking about replacing the wires inside the boxes. From the Xovers to the drivers. I have plenty of extra AudioQuest CV-4 cable from my upgrade to CV-8. It is solid core with what AudioQuest calls "Perfect Surface Copper". Is there any reason I should not do this?
Thanks
For another upgrade I was thinking about replacing the wires inside the boxes. From the Xovers to the drivers. I have plenty of extra AudioQuest CV-4 cable from my upgrade to CV-8. It is solid core with what AudioQuest calls "Perfect Surface Copper". Is there any reason I should not do this?
Thanks
Yes I'm certain you could sort your crossovers yourself for a fraction of that price.
Unless the existing wire is very thin and the connections in poor condition I would leave it be. I would not recommend the solid core wire for inside a speaker box as due to it's poor mechanical characteristics it could fracture.
Unless the existing wire is very thin and the connections in poor condition I would leave it be. I would not recommend the solid core wire for inside a speaker box as due to it's poor mechanical characteristics it could fracture.
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