I have bought a little micro class D amp for my car 4 x 65 w rms ( vibe powerbox 65.4 )
the amp connects to the speaker outputs on the head unit then boosts the output to the speakers the amp is 4 ohms stable
But the problem is my car front factory fit speakers each side piggy backs of a sub under the seat see hand drawn pic
so the amp sees 2 ohms and at high level starts to distort the door speakers
seeing the door speakers have a bult in crossover the 4.7uf caps i only need a 2 way 4 ohms crossover which i can connect near the subs which is what the head unit feeds first
would the last pic be any good ?
20240110_165346 by glenn jarrett, on Flickr
20240111_120059 by glenn jarrett, on Flickr
20240111_122530 by glenn jarrett, on Flickr
the amp connects to the speaker outputs on the head unit then boosts the output to the speakers the amp is 4 ohms stable
But the problem is my car front factory fit speakers each side piggy backs of a sub under the seat see hand drawn pic
so the amp sees 2 ohms and at high level starts to distort the door speakers
seeing the door speakers have a bult in crossover the 4.7uf caps i only need a 2 way 4 ohms crossover which i can connect near the subs which is what the head unit feeds first
would the last pic be any good ?



would the last pic be any good ?
Yes, that seems the way to go.
The least you need is a capacitor in series with the mid (between sub and mid) as well as the one in series with the tweeter.
Are you in the position to calculate the component values?
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It appears from your sketch that the mid (4.5" door speaker) is currently unprotected from the bass frequencies by a capacitor.
That would explain the distortion the door speakers are experiencing.
You can try simply placing a capacitor between the sub and the mid (4.5" door speaker). I'll come back with a suggested value.
That would explain the distortion the door speakers are experiencing.
You can try simply placing a capacitor between the sub and the mid (4.5" door speaker). I'll come back with a suggested value.
I can't find any info on the subs but the mids say 140hz
could I use an online crossover calculator
this is what i intend to do but not sure how to work out the values crossover freq etc
20240111_155552 by glenn jarrett, on Flickr
could I use an online crossover calculator
this is what i intend to do but not sure how to work out the values crossover freq etc

will i end up with 4 ohms ish at the ampIt appears from your sketch that the mid (4.5" door speaker) is currently unprotected from the bass frequencies by a capacitor.
That would explain the distortion the door speakers are experiencing.
You can try simply placing a capacitor between the sub and the mid (4.5" door speaker). I'll come back with a suggested value.
You could simply try a single 100 uF non-polar electrolytic capacitor in series with the mid.
The impedance seen by the amp will be that of the sub, i.e., 4 ohm.
The impedance seen by the amp will be that of the sub, i.e., 4 ohm.
I assume the capacitors in the pic are non-polar, AKA bi-polar, as indicated by the BP printed on the side.
Give them a try. We can look at the more complex solution if required.
Give them a try. We can look at the more complex solution if required.
this is what i intend to do but not sure how to work out the values crossover freq etc
Here is a suitable calculator if you wish to go down the more complex path:
https://www.omnicalculator.com/physics/crossover
Select Number of speakers 3, 1st Order, 4 ohm, low crossover frequency 300 Hz, high crossover frequency 4000 Hz and 3.0 octaves.
The nearest standard component values would be:
C1 = 10 uF (although the current 4.7 uF may be preferable).
C2 = 82 uF
L1 = 0.15 mH
L2 = 1.2 mH
And a UK supplier:
https://willys-hifi.com/collections/electrolytic-capacitors-non-polarised
https://willys-hifi.com/products/monacor-audio-inductors-air-core-1mm-ofc?variant=33569754480699
That's probably overkill for your application, but you now have the information you asked for! 😎
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