It would be fairer if I explained the two minds I'm still in, I think.
1. that the Ardens driver(s) are good, and the crossover is badly done, so you can't hear the good treble.
2. that the driver(s) are not good (I have not worked with them)
If 2, then
1. Use the Ardens as woofer alone, don't expect 14kHz, more like 1kHz or lower.
2. Cross from the Ardens tweeter.
3. Blend with the Ardens tweeter.
Bearing in mind that 2, and to a degree 3 are more of a three-way arrangement.
I wouldn't expect certainty on this without either trying them out or doing sufficient measurement.
1. that the Ardens driver(s) are good, and the crossover is badly done, so you can't hear the good treble.
2. that the driver(s) are not good (I have not worked with them)
If 2, then
1. Use the Ardens as woofer alone, don't expect 14kHz, more like 1kHz or lower.
2. Cross from the Ardens tweeter.
3. Blend with the Ardens tweeter.
Bearing in mind that 2, and to a degree 3 are more of a three-way arrangement.
I wouldn't expect certainty on this without either trying them out or doing sufficient measurement.
My suggestions originally was because you liked the Tannoy supertweeter which is a dome tweeter, and from what I can tell is without a wave guide, so the intention is to do a cheaper clone of Tannoy Super tweeter. Pretty much a quick and dirty lower quality version.
But if you want to redesign the whole concept, then there are other options including Horns such as Fostex supetweeter.
My thoughts are to get something cheap and just 'play around' and see what you want .
Oon
But if you want to redesign the whole concept, then there are other options including Horns such as Fostex supetweeter.
My thoughts are to get something cheap and just 'play around' and see what you want .
Oon
There are some excellent pointers, I hope this helps others not just me.
So the few things I have learnt so far:
1) Need high efficiency
2) Do I blend or Crossover ?
3) Go with first order for simplicity ?
4) As @oon_the_kid noted, the Tannoy unit is a Dome Tweeter without a wave guide.
So going over these: I had the following in mind
1) How about any of these tweeters as the super tweeter ?SB Acoustics Satori TW29BN Beryllium Dome Tweeter
or
TL 16 H - 8 Ohm | Visaton
Since ribbon units are not as efficient, thoughts on adding two units in parallel to gain spl ?
I know multi tweeter arrays are rare but I think this can be done. Thoughts ?
I would still, if possible prefer blending versus crossing over completely.
Finally, a bit of a preface, I am moving to Poland from USA to be with my wife and will be there for a couple of years, I wont be taking the Arden cabinets, just the drivers but rebuilding the cabinets in Poland.
The ardens are rather wide and shallow cabinets and wont properly in the apartment, what do I lose if I keep the exact same cabinet volume but change the box dimensions by making the cabinet narrower and deeper ?
Also the ports on the ardens are front firing, if I change the ports to rear firing, do I need to make changes to the existing crossover to match phase or anything ?
Any other thoughts on changing the cabinet size ?
Thanks in advance for any and all thoughts.
So the few things I have learnt so far:
1) Need high efficiency
2) Do I blend or Crossover ?
3) Go with first order for simplicity ?
4) As @oon_the_kid noted, the Tannoy unit is a Dome Tweeter without a wave guide.
So going over these: I had the following in mind
1) How about any of these tweeters as the super tweeter ?SB Acoustics Satori TW29BN Beryllium Dome Tweeter
or
TL 16 H - 8 Ohm | Visaton
Since ribbon units are not as efficient, thoughts on adding two units in parallel to gain spl ?
I know multi tweeter arrays are rare but I think this can be done. Thoughts ?
I would still, if possible prefer blending versus crossing over completely.
Finally, a bit of a preface, I am moving to Poland from USA to be with my wife and will be there for a couple of years, I wont be taking the Arden cabinets, just the drivers but rebuilding the cabinets in Poland.
The ardens are rather wide and shallow cabinets and wont properly in the apartment, what do I lose if I keep the exact same cabinet volume but change the box dimensions by making the cabinet narrower and deeper ?
Also the ports on the ardens are front firing, if I change the ports to rear firing, do I need to make changes to the existing crossover to match phase or anything ?
Any other thoughts on changing the cabinet size ?
Thanks in advance for any and all thoughts.
Well, not all ribbons are lower efficiency. This one from fountek is more than 95 db and has excellent off axis response.
Fountek NeoCd3.0M-blk 3" Ribbon Tweeter - Round Flange - Black
Not too expensive too. I am not too familiar with other more expensive ones like viawave and raal though.
The satori is suppose to be nice, but I notice it falls of over 10 db at 30 degrees at 20kHz. As for the Visaton, based on the response graph also more directive rather than dispersive. IMHO, if big soundstage and laid back is what you look for, go for dispersive. If more in your face or forward sounding go for more focused and less dispersive type.
Oon
Fountek NeoCd3.0M-blk 3" Ribbon Tweeter - Round Flange - Black
Not too expensive too. I am not too familiar with other more expensive ones like viawave and raal though.
The satori is suppose to be nice, but I notice it falls of over 10 db at 30 degrees at 20kHz. As for the Visaton, based on the response graph also more directive rather than dispersive. IMHO, if big soundstage and laid back is what you look for, go for dispersive. If more in your face or forward sounding go for more focused and less dispersive type.
Oon
@oon_the_kid, thoughts on power handling ? I have read excellent things on the fountek you just recommended, however it has a max power handling of 40W. Lets say I run it through a 1st order Xover, do I risk blowing the tweeter at loud volumes ? I realize this is a very generic question, still I would like some thoughts on this.
First order crossover generally don't work too well on ribbons. Typically they require 3rd and above, however, since you are crossing at 10kHz, probably 2nd order will do. The other reason is because you don't want the mids to bleed into your supetweeter and messes your mids.
Power should not be a problem, there is very little energy above 10kHz. I would think with such a system 100mW of treble is already very loud.
Oon
Power should not be a problem, there is very little energy above 10kHz. I would think with such a system 100mW of treble is already very loud.
Oon