A lot is pointing to a more complex crossover, but also the probability of changing drivers.
'Taming' the mid looks doable, but I think changing the tweeter is probably a 'must do' >
I would look to something like this: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32828799314.html
Particular attention to the polarity wiring of the tweeter is going to be needed. [ even with your existing tweeters ]
'Taming' the mid looks doable, but I think changing the tweeter is probably a 'must do' >
I would look to something like this: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32828799314.html
Particular attention to the polarity wiring of the tweeter is going to be needed. [ even with your existing tweeters ]
It is possible that simply adding the right value capacitor across L4, and then changing C2 from 1uF to 2.2uF could work very well.
Once again > paying particular attention to tweeter polarity wiring.
When you say “the right value capacitor across L4” do you mean in place of L4 or in parallel with L4?
And how would I work out what value that should be?
And how would I work out what value that should be?
Thank you.
I’ll try out each of these options, I’m pretty sure I’ve got some useable caps lying around. 👍🏻
I’ll try out each of these options, I’m pretty sure I’ve got some useable caps lying around. 👍🏻
It works out.
The most reasonable course of action for this shape would to put the filter right on the response peak, causing a steep slope and calling for the tweeter to come down to meet it...
The first capacitor could also remain at 2.7uF. The response would reach lower and the woofer could be crossed harder to meet it.
I’m just trying to fully understand what needs to be done here, I’m not technically minded so, if there is a consensus, dumbed-down instructions are a must! 😂
Assuming I want to start with the route of least resistance i.e. basic tweaks to the crossover before buying different drivers, the first thing to try is:
Change L1 from .15mH to .22mH
Install a 3.3uf capacitor in parallel with L4
Is that correct!?
Assuming I want to start with the route of least resistance i.e. basic tweaks to the crossover before buying different drivers, the first thing to try is:
Change L1 from .15mH to .22mH
Install a 3.3uf capacitor in parallel with L4
Is that correct!?
All three options are multi stage changes that require knowledge of three things, and we are limited in what we can do to help you determine them. You want to know what could go wrong, what to look for to declare success and what to look for to determine the next step.
You have Galu's resistor suggestion. It will reduce the levels but one risk is it may change the filter damping so you get more output in some places and less in others. The other issue is the peak may remain and that may be OK or may not.
Then there's my suggestion that reduces the peak. One challenge is you'll have to tune it by hand. Another is you may want to reduce the level as well afterward.
Then there's Audio>X's suggestion. One risk is that you can exchange peaks in one area for another area, and tuning by hand is not intuitive so the results may not be as expected while you apply values with your clip leads.
Simulating would put some power into your hands.
You have Galu's resistor suggestion. It will reduce the levels but one risk is it may change the filter damping so you get more output in some places and less in others. The other issue is the peak may remain and that may be OK or may not.
Then there's my suggestion that reduces the peak. One challenge is you'll have to tune it by hand. Another is you may want to reduce the level as well afterward.
Then there's Audio>X's suggestion. One risk is that you can exchange peaks in one area for another area, and tuning by hand is not intuitive so the results may not be as expected while you apply values with your clip leads.
Simulating would put some power into your hands.
Yes.
Please understand that it was my intention to keep things simple from the start. I don't think things need to be overly complex to improve your speakers.
If you use a capacitor [ 3.3 or 4.7uF ] in parallel with L4 to 'tame' the horrendous 5.5Khz peak, you won't need to use attenuation of the mid driver.
BUT > when you do this it is imperative that you also increase C2 from 1uF to 2.2uF. In fact, with C2 @ 2.2uF and L3 being .33mH, quite a 'musical' filter
is created. It will actually 'pick-up' the lower tweeter frequencies where you have a dip.
The reason I suggest tweeter replacement is because the old paper-cone units just can't compare regarding 'sheen & detail' of newer dome units.
Your measurements and ears are going to reveal eventual improvements.
And don't forget > there is real degree of FUN that comes with DIY 🙂
Sorry, silly question alert..... if I want to test the parallel caps without soldering them in place, can I simply use crocodile clips to make the connection and hold hem in place?
🤔
🤔
Yes. If you're working on it you might consider using them like that until you become comfortable with your choices. Warning, good ideas usually come the day after you decide to solder 😀 There is the risk the joints will degrade over time and you may want to wiggle things now and then.
