Hello Everybody,
First time poster, long time reader.
I’m looking for help with Acoustic Profiles PSL 6.1A speakers. They sound fine to me, looking to upgrade the crossovers as a fun project.
There are two components on the high pass filter I’m puzzled with: The blue one (measures 1.5 uF) and the brown one (measures 3.5 uF). The brown one is a straight capacitor, I believe, but what is the blue one? They are parallel to each other, different types, different values.
What is the blue one?
I’m wondering if I could replace both with Polycap 5 uF (non-existing) or 4.7+0.33, or just with 4.7 uF.
There is also a fuse ampule on the signal path, measures 0.5 ohm. Should I keep it or replace it with something?
There are some photos and a rudimentary drawing attached.
Highly anticipating your suggestions.
Thx
First time poster, long time reader.
I’m looking for help with Acoustic Profiles PSL 6.1A speakers. They sound fine to me, looking to upgrade the crossovers as a fun project.
There are two components on the high pass filter I’m puzzled with: The blue one (measures 1.5 uF) and the brown one (measures 3.5 uF). The brown one is a straight capacitor, I believe, but what is the blue one? They are parallel to each other, different types, different values.
What is the blue one?
I’m wondering if I could replace both with Polycap 5 uF (non-existing) or 4.7+0.33, or just with 4.7 uF.
There is also a fuse ampule on the signal path, measures 0.5 ohm. Should I keep it or replace it with something?
There are some photos and a rudimentary drawing attached.
Highly anticipating your suggestions.
Thx
Attachments
They may have just bought what was readily available.
There are 5uF crossover capacitors around, it's a common value. But it should fit the board.
https://www.parts-express.com/Dayton-Audio-DMPC-5.1-5.1uF-250V-Polypropylene-Capacitor-027-423
There are 5uF crossover capacitors around, it's a common value. But it should fit the board.
https://www.parts-express.com/Dayton-Audio-DMPC-5.1-5.1uF-250V-Polypropylene-Capacitor-027-423
I'm in Calgary, cross border shipments are nothing but pain.
Besides Dayton/Bennic look in par with JB JFX, and I have plenty.
Still I'm not sure what is the blue "component".
On second thought, as an option, I may bypass both (blue and brown) and the 10uF one, without replacing them with polycaps. (the 10uf poly would be size overkill).
(The brown capacitor could be 3.3uF +/-10%.... then 4.7uF would do the job. (The markings are faded))
Besides Dayton/Bennic look in par with JB JFX, and I have plenty.
Still I'm not sure what is the blue "component".
On second thought, as an option, I may bypass both (blue and brown) and the 10uF one, without replacing them with polycaps. (the 10uf poly would be size overkill).
(The brown capacitor could be 3.3uF +/-10%.... then 4.7uF would do the job. (The markings are faded))
Thank you!
Would there be any benefit of mixing different brands, different values capacitors, besides the availability/price?
What would be an upgrade capacitor, considering the value of the speakers? And suggestion for an upgrade of the 10uF electrolytic one, please?
Bypass the 10uF electrolytic with 0.1uF, and brown/blue with 0.01uf, or else?
Would there be any benefit of mixing different brands, different values capacitors, besides the availability/price?
What would be an upgrade capacitor, considering the value of the speakers? And suggestion for an upgrade of the 10uF electrolytic one, please?
Bypass the 10uF electrolytic with 0.1uF, and brown/blue with 0.01uf, or else?
All such things are a matter of personal preference, and there's no particular consensus.
There should be a lot of options for the 10uF bipolar, but be sure it is intended for crossover use,
since many will not be and will degrade quickly. Also it should fit the board well.
Also verify all of the resistors are within tolerance.
There should be a lot of options for the 10uF bipolar, but be sure it is intended for crossover use,
since many will not be and will degrade quickly. Also it should fit the board well.
Also verify all of the resistors are within tolerance.
That's a speaker protection lamp which protects either the whole speaker or just the tweeter from overload (see attachment).
It would be best to keep it in place if you frequently play your speakers at high sound levels.
EDIT: Unlike a fuse, the protection lamp does not 'blow', but returns to its normal low resistance when the overload condition is removed.
Attachments
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There appear to be white deposits at the bottom right of the circuit board, as seen in your second image.
Could the 100 uF electrolytic capacitor have been leaking?
Could the 100 uF electrolytic capacitor have been leaking?
