No it's not: Jantzen 22uF 400V Crosscap Capacitor
You'd be surprised how expensive a Jantzen Silver Z-Cap would cost in comparison. Last I knew it was about $120. $8.29 is pocket change.
Mucho paralleled parts is not really required, and costs more money in the long run. If you have to match a value, maybe.
Yes- try to keep the value 0.5uF in difference or less than the measured value to ensure the same sound.
I separated them only because the boards suited this project. You can build them on the same board per channel. Yes- that is technically 4 xovers per pair of speakers.
Check out ERSE here: Audio Grade Capacitors | ERSE
The PulseX would also work for the 22uF: ERSE - PulseX
And Mylars for the rest:
Audio Grade PEx Polyester Mylar Capacitors | ERSE
You can use these resistors:
Audio Resistors | ERSE
or these:
Parts Express
It depends on shipping charges, where you choose to shop, and where you want to cut costs. Meniscus and ERSE have the lowest coil prices in the supplier list.
Later,
Wolf
You'd be surprised how expensive a Jantzen Silver Z-Cap would cost in comparison. Last I knew it was about $120. $8.29 is pocket change.
Mucho paralleled parts is not really required, and costs more money in the long run. If you have to match a value, maybe.
Yes- try to keep the value 0.5uF in difference or less than the measured value to ensure the same sound.
I separated them only because the boards suited this project. You can build them on the same board per channel. Yes- that is technically 4 xovers per pair of speakers.
Check out ERSE here: Audio Grade Capacitors | ERSE
The PulseX would also work for the 22uF: ERSE - PulseX
And Mylars for the rest:
Audio Grade PEx Polyester Mylar Capacitors | ERSE
You can use these resistors:
Audio Resistors | ERSE
or these:
Parts Express
It depends on shipping charges, where you choose to shop, and where you want to cut costs. Meniscus and ERSE have the lowest coil prices in the supplier list.
Later,
Wolf
This is a passive design. Active not need apply, since the drivers/xovers only cost me $100 for mine.
Later,
Wolf
Later,
Wolf
I wouldn't call $4.64 US brutally expensive for a 22uF polyprop cap: AXON True Cap Metallized Polypropylene Capacitors
🙂
Tony.
🙂
Tony.
Personally- I find the Solen/SCR/Axon caps better in woofer shunts (parallel)than in series. Sometimes they can have a bit of grit in their sound. If he wants to use an Axon for the cap in the shunt on the midbass, I say please do!
Just my opinion,
Wolf
Just my opinion,
Wolf
Then there's Apex Jr...
Steve sells some good priced surplus mylar and poly caps from Aerovox, etc.
To be safe, don't use any that say 'electrolytic' from Steve, as they are likely polarized caps.
Apex Jr.Home Page
Later,
Wolf
Steve sells some good priced surplus mylar and poly caps from Aerovox, etc.
To be safe, don't use any that say 'electrolytic' from Steve, as they are likely polarized caps.
Apex Jr.Home Page
Later,
Wolf
Thanks for the replies again.
Is there a reason why you are suggesting mylars? Is it for price, or for sound quality?
If I order the inductors from ERSE, can I use inductors with a thicker wire gauge? That would mean less resistance right? Is that better?
For instance, you write that a 20AWG inductor should be used in x-place, can I use 18AWG, or perhaps even larger?
Is there a reason why you are suggesting mylars? Is it for price, or for sound quality?
If I order the inductors from ERSE, can I use inductors with a thicker wire gauge? That would mean less resistance right? Is that better?
For instance, you write that a 20AWG inductor should be used in x-place, can I use 18AWG, or perhaps even larger?
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Since it sounded as though you thought ~$10 for a cap was expensive, and that you wanted to keep the price down, I figured it would save you some coins. It was mostly cost related, that and NPE's don't sound as good as polys or mylars, IMO.
If you were okay with using CrossCaps for the rest of the xover, I would probably recommend a Solen 22uF on the parallel shunt for the woofer, or keep the NPE. Your choice. Otherwise- sure! It would be a valid option to use the Crosscaps throughout the schematic.
The only other caveat is the size of the components. Some of these caps get rather large, and could detract quite a bit of volume from the cabinet.
Later, and please post pictures as you progress! 😀
Wolf
If you were okay with using CrossCaps for the rest of the xover, I would probably recommend a Solen 22uF on the parallel shunt for the woofer, or keep the NPE. Your choice. Otherwise- sure! It would be a valid option to use the Crosscaps throughout the schematic.
The only other caveat is the size of the components. Some of these caps get rather large, and could detract quite a bit of volume from the cabinet.
Later, and please post pictures as you progress! 😀
Wolf
So is 18AWG okay for all of the inductors?
And thanks a lot. I should have most of the parts in by mid-next week, if all goes according to plan. I'll definitley put them up. Who knows how long this is going to take. 😛
And thanks a lot. I should have most of the parts in by mid-next week, if all goes according to plan. I'll definitley put them up. Who knows how long this is going to take. 😛
Nope- if you will look, the coil DCR is spec'd, and it will tell you which gauge is where. If you substitute the different gauges, they will give a bit of different attenuation at different points, and the FR will not be as good as I had it.
Please use what gauge I specify.
Later,
Wolf
Please use what gauge I specify.
Later,
Wolf
Oh right...I understand. Makes plenty of sense.
I have an unrelated amplifier question regarding ground.
I will be enclosing my amp in a wooden (MDF) case because I'm too cheap to buy an aluminum one. I am hoping to use some $15 computer heatsinks on the amplifier chips themselves though I'm unsure on how I'm going to do that. I'll get it done. Don't worry. 😉
But in regards to ground, I can't just slap a bolt on the case because its wood.
So, to do ground properly: Can I use a copper ground block/bus and attach all of the wires that are supposed to go to ground there? I will then attach that ground bus to the third prong on the AC power jack.
Is that correct? I don't want to screw that up.
Thanks.
If you only had a choice of the axon or an NPE for series would you use the NPE? 🙂
Tony.
Thanks for all of the input. I've ordered the capacitors and resistors from Erse and the coils from Parts Express. All capacitors are PulseX.
Sounds like this post is too late but I think the idea of "mylar" caps is to be discouraged.
I think there is a problem with terminology in this thread. Mylar IS polyester. The expression "poly" caps cover at least THREE different dielectrics. These are polyester, polycarbonate and polypropylene.
I know this is a controversial area but the general verdict on this forum is that polypropylene is probably best followed by polycarbonate and lastly polyester. There is no question that in theory and by objective measurement polyester (mylar) should be avoided. (Personal anecdotal evidence seems to agree. But I am not up for a debate on this issue as I happy concede specific situations and personal preference may dictate otherwise!)
Btw for bigger values (bass-mid crossover) I am finding motor start/run caps are attractive. They are usually polypropylene, come in big values (10 to 55uF) are often 5% tolerance, usually 300-400 wv and one of the local disposal outlets here (Australia) can have new ones on special for around $1 Aust' for 10uF or even less.
Good luck, TheLaw117.
I think there is a problem with terminology in this thread. Mylar IS polyester. The expression "poly" caps cover at least THREE different dielectrics. These are polyester, polycarbonate and polypropylene.
I know this is a controversial area but the general verdict on this forum is that polypropylene is probably best followed by polycarbonate and lastly polyester. There is no question that in theory and by objective measurement polyester (mylar) should be avoided. (Personal anecdotal evidence seems to agree. But I am not up for a debate on this issue as I happy concede specific situations and personal preference may dictate otherwise!)
Btw for bigger values (bass-mid crossover) I am finding motor start/run caps are attractive. They are usually polypropylene, come in big values (10 to 55uF) are often 5% tolerance, usually 300-400 wv and one of the local disposal outlets here (Australia) can have new ones on special for around $1 Aust' for 10uF or even less.
Good luck, TheLaw117.
Just as a clarification, when I mentioned "Poly" Bi-pass caps in my previous post, I was referring to polypropylene.
Really?
I never met a person, that could hear a difference between a polyester or polypropylenne capacitor of the same value in a speaker crossover.
From the little experiment we conducted, which was cited previously in this thread, it "seems" that it's awfully hard for most people to distinguish polypropylene bi-passed electrolytic's from all polypropylene crossovers (bi-passed with same value poly caps as the electrolytic's). Please note that there may be people that can hear a difference, but it's certainly not night and day like some would have it.
I can't hear a difference normally and my "Golden Ears" hearing is so acute that I can hear sounds that aren't even there!
😀
Best Regards,
TerryO
Jogi-
I can hear that difference. Tried between a Tecate Industries and several polies.
Wintermute- I may have put it so it sounded that way, my bad. I would definitely use a CC over an NPE.
J. Bright- There are 4. Polystyrene, Polypropylene MKP, Polycarbonate MKC, and Polyester/mylar MKT. I've used mylars in budget cases, and have no reason to think that was a bad choice. Polycarbonate film is no longer manufactured, so the prices are increasing as we speak unless you use an older NOS cap. Last I checked at Mouser, a Vishay was about $50 for a 4.7uF, so those are not going to be easy to find. Polystyrene is very expensive, and usually is not over 3uF in value. So that leaves MKP and MKT as stated before.
Law- you made a fine choice. Let me know if you require further info later.
Later,
Wolf
I can hear that difference. Tried between a Tecate Industries and several polies.
Wintermute- I may have put it so it sounded that way, my bad. I would definitely use a CC over an NPE.
J. Bright- There are 4. Polystyrene, Polypropylene MKP, Polycarbonate MKC, and Polyester/mylar MKT. I've used mylars in budget cases, and have no reason to think that was a bad choice. Polycarbonate film is no longer manufactured, so the prices are increasing as we speak unless you use an older NOS cap. Last I checked at Mouser, a Vishay was about $50 for a 4.7uF, so those are not going to be easy to find. Polystyrene is very expensive, and usually is not over 3uF in value. So that leaves MKP and MKT as stated before.
Law- you made a fine choice. Let me know if you require further info later.
Later,
Wolf
None at the moment, seeing I don't actually have anything besides the M4Ns. 😀. Thanks.
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