Good morning everyone..I had no idea were to post this topic but, here? I am looking at putting a capacitor on a tweeter at 6 DB on my speakers with a full range driver. I keep reading that the calculators online really don't know what they're doing and they can do the crossover wrong because you're not measuring them or measuring the drivers? I have a few programs I paid for that I can use..The driver am using is full range but, I want it not just for cosmetic looks but also for little bit of Sparkle On Top. Please let me what you think? Jeff
It depends on the tweeter/supertweeter of course, but, if using a single capacitor, I recommend a small capacitance of 1.0uF or 1.5uF.
A variable L pad is a useful addition to get the level just right.
A variable L pad is a useful addition to get the level just right.
The capacitor values I suggested will ensure the tweeter is not damaged by low frequency signals while adding that "little bit of sparkle on top" you are looking for.
If you require the tweeter to safely go a bit lower in frequency, you would calculate for a 12dB/octave high pass filter e.g. 2.2uf capacitor in series and 1.5mH inductor in parallel with the tweeter.
Figures suit an 8 ohm tweeter.
If you require the tweeter to safely go a bit lower in frequency, you would calculate for a 12dB/octave high pass filter e.g. 2.2uf capacitor in series and 1.5mH inductor in parallel with the tweeter.
Figures suit an 8 ohm tweeter.
First, given the significant distance between the drivers and a slow XO you will have lots of combing and the FR thru thr transition region (say 4 octaves min) will have significant combing and will change dramatically as you move your head. You have to listen to see if th etweeter adds more than it takes away.
There are 2 methods often used to add a sT to the top. The T is usually more sensitive than the FR so a cap at a very high frequeny will attenuate the T sufficiently to be the right level at XO. The other way is to choose the cap to XO where you want it and to pad the tweeter down (start with an LPad). A calcualtor will get you into the ballpark, you have to listen from there, and do keep in mind that moving your head could change your perception of what is happening.
If the transition is too rocky for you something like this might work better.
dave
There are 2 methods often used to add a sT to the top. The T is usually more sensitive than the FR so a cap at a very high frequeny will attenuate the T sufficiently to be the right level at XO. The other way is to choose the cap to XO where you want it and to pad the tweeter down (start with an LPad). A calcualtor will get you into the ballpark, you have to listen from there, and do keep in mind that moving your head could change your perception of what is happening.
If the transition is too rocky for you something like this might work better.
dave
Attachments
Finding the right values by ear can take time, but when you are only working with, say, a ressitor value and a capacitor value then there isn't too much that can go wrong.
Thanks everyone..I will take all the help I can get. I will buy the tweeters and listen to what best suits my ears between the driver's and the tweeter's. Jeff
Sparkle, that's up there.
And some dispersion up there helps also.
What full range are you running ?
And some dispersion up there helps also.
What full range are you running ?
Last edited:
It can be done, but like dave said, it's hard to do it right so it's better than without. the different dispertion and the resonances of the full range driver may make it a mess up there.
I did it once with an old philips 10" fullrange (don't remember the model) and an audax tweeter, but had to use a higher order crossover to get the resonances of the philips low enough to get a good sound. at the end it was 3th order lowpass on the philips and 2nd order on the audax tweeter. This was done on base of the measurements of both drivers as both were old.
I did it once with an old philips 10" fullrange (don't remember the model) and an audax tweeter, but had to use a higher order crossover to get the resonances of the philips low enough to get a good sound. at the end it was 3th order lowpass on the philips and 2nd order on the audax tweeter. This was done on base of the measurements of both drivers as both were old.
Hi Jeff,
Sorry to sound a little bit provoking, but why would you like to
- add a severe discontinuity to the dispersion of your system?
- probably employ two different materials with different sound in the treble?
- include combing effects, as you probably never will have a center spacing close enough?
- introduce a crossover into your system?
Most FR units in a box feature a midrange/treble imbalance, which needs to be controlled and balanced. With a good FR unit, your treble is suddenly there... but adding a tweeter might be cheaper than having a good FR or a sensibly made balancing circuit.
All the best
Mattes
Sorry to sound a little bit provoking, but why would you like to
- add a severe discontinuity to the dispersion of your system?
- probably employ two different materials with different sound in the treble?
- include combing effects, as you probably never will have a center spacing close enough?
- introduce a crossover into your system?
Most FR units in a box feature a midrange/treble imbalance, which needs to be controlled and balanced. With a good FR unit, your treble is suddenly there... but adding a tweeter might be cheaper than having a good FR or a sensibly made balancing circuit.
All the best
Mattes
Yeah, not here, putting a tweeter on a full range driver neuters it as a full range driver, and the raison d'etre after all for this forum branch is the epiphany that despite the severe compromises of losing out on bass and high treble, the single driver can sound amazing straight out of the packet, and all that time battling with crossovers would have been better spent by I don't know, taking drugs?
Just a thought. If you just need to add a little air well out of the midrange you could try crossing the ST very high and firing it toward the rear.
Hello everyone.. Sorry for the delayed reply. I have decided and bought a pair aura whisper 1 inch extended drivers.. I'm looking to start testing the best crossover points between the two driver's. I wanted to start cheap to see if it will work between the two driver's? Jeff
Well, those won't break if you feed them with a 100 Hz tone. Same for the cap size: 1-100 uF would do....of course if you derate from 1-5 uF value, some frequencies will be played by both drivers and that's bad, but it happens! So for a fine speaker you'd need to filter(LP) the woofer either, but that's a full range (like the Aura) so the crossover point should be higher than the one normally applied to a mid woofer unit.
I.was thinking of putting the extended driver in the back of the cabinet. I wanted to cross over the extended 1 inch driver before the full range driver drops off. I don't care what the spec sheet says and I don't care what the frequency graph says it's lagging in the high-end frequency range. This is what I dealt with before with Mark audio drivers that they are very good in the mid-range the bass is very natural but they never seem to get to the highest range or they're lacking in it. Which is fine cuz I'm just adding something to make up for the lost upper detail.
Last edited:
I would have chosen a 3/4" tweeter or the Dayton mini-8, and not on the back!
The Whisper ( I have the 2" which I use in a 3 way) might get some abuse if filtered 6 dB/Oct so it's ok for experimentation.
Another 2" that I have, I've put it in a large waveguide ( 8" speaker cone) and crossed it at about 1 kHz to a...8" speaker ( in reality the cone is not 8" !!!but a little less)
The Whisper ( I have the 2" which I use in a 3 way) might get some abuse if filtered 6 dB/Oct so it's ok for experimentation.
Another 2" that I have, I've put it in a large waveguide ( 8" speaker cone) and crossed it at about 1 kHz to a...8" speaker ( in reality the cone is not 8" !!!but a little less)
Did you notice the sensitivity rating for the aura whisper 1 inch extended drivers at 78dB 2.83V/1m? That's a big problem in a passive system.
Mike
The one I bought from Aura said 1 inch extended driver. I can hold off and buy the Daytons when I get the money. Nothing is set in stone just experimenting right now. Jeff