Critique my guitar/bass preamp design

By the way, RV4A and RV4B are simply the two gangs of a dual-gang pot, it's a low pass on one end and a treble shelf on the other, it essentially is a flat response (for guitar purposes anyway) when fully CW and a upper-mid/treble hump when turned CCW, sort of reminiscent of a Tube Screamer in some settings. To be honest, the "boost" channel, which is post-filter by the way, is an experiment, and it is the part of the circuit I'm less convinced about (should I make it pre-filter? Should I provide it with more extensive tone controls?).
 
Protect the input from overvoltage/esd. Diodes to + and - rails. There's loads of evil electricity introduced into an amp when the guitar lead gets plugged in.
Do you mean antiparallel diodes to ground? It is something that I could do (especially if I use, for example, LEDs) but I would like such an arrangement not to introduce distortion and/or noise. There is far too much variation on guitar/bass output to reliably choose an overvoltage level, some guitars may have peak voltages well over 2V.
 
Not if they're on the right side of the input coupling cap. It's a pretty common technique.
But why not to ground? Basically what you are proposing is, should you have an ESD through the guitar jack (possibly thousands of volts for a microsecond or so) the diodes would close, with the current essentially going to signal ground (either Vcc or Vdd). With an appropriately chosen LED (one with a sufficiently high V_th) each way, shunted to ground, you'd probably have less noise, since a reverse-biased diode should contribute a (small) amount of noise.

I tried to keep noise contribution to a minimum, since there are already quite a few stages which will bring their share of noise to the table (but if you want treble pre- and de-emphasis, it's inevitable; especially the former, and as a matter of fact I designated that stage as a NE5532 which is a decently low noise opamp - I could do even better but I'm not sure it would be worth the trouble).
 
Last edited:
But why not to ground? Basically what you are proposing is, should you have an ESD through the guitar jack (possibly thousands of volts for a microsecond or so) the diodes would close, with the current essentially going to signal ground (either Vcc or Vdd). With an appropriately chosen LED (one with a sufficiently high V_th) each way, shunted to ground, you'd probably have less noise, since a reverse-biased diode should contribute a (small) amount of noise.

I tried to keep noise contribution to a minimum, since there are already quite a few stages which will bring their share of noise to the table (but if you want treble pre- and de-emphasis, it's inevitable; especially the former, and as a matter of fact I designated that stage as a NE5532 which is a decently low noise opamp - I could do even better but I'm not sure it would be worth the trouble).
Sure, just that you didn't seem sure about that method as you feared clipping from a hot guitar.

See: https://sound-au.com/appnotes/an015.htm
 
During the lockdown, I started designing a completely solid-state guitar/bass preamp centered around opamps for clean gain and diode clipping + JFET colouration for overdrive and distortion. It features pre-emphasis and subsequent de-emphasis in order to allow higher gain (as of now, the pre-emphasis is a +10 or +16dB high shelf, with the two "shelves" being approx. below 80Hz and over 1 kHz, and the de-emphasis is a corresponding and reversed bass shelf; this would also allow a +6dB bass boost or +6dB added brightness). I might rework the pre-emphasis and de-emphasis to allow bypassing it (and have essentially a flat response within the passband) and tweaking the values a bit (for example +6dB and +12dB). Also, I might add a HPF for guitar use (as it is now, the HPF is at around 30Hz).

The diode from gate to source on the first JFET is to avoid heavy gate conduction, and is there only for pathological conditions (extreme peaks), but I could use an appropriately chosen diode + zener diode to ground I suppose (or just not bother). The second JFET employs essentially a semi-forced source voltage, fixed by an opamp, and it behaves well in simulations. I have quite a few OPA2134 at home, but I think that some of the opamps would work well with an NE5532 in their place. The tone control is essentially a Big Muff tone control with selectable values (I have a 6-way switch, why not put it to use?). The attached PDF lacks the clipping indicators, power supply and regulation (which is dual +/-15V; as for regulation, I was thinking of just using a zener regulator for the opamps, as they have very high power supply noise rejection, and a regulator chip just for the JFETs, which could even run at a higher voltage if necessary), active EQ, vibrato and spring or digital reverb (I could use either).
The point is that when you adjust a pot, the slider becomes OPEN CIRCUIT temporarily after some aging. So what happens to the op-amp: the output produces a spike to the rail, BANG! If the power amp gain isn't high then it's just annoying, but with enough power it could damage your speakers. The difference between theoretical and practical design comes with experience.
 
The point is that when you adjust a pot, the slider becomes OPEN CIRCUIT temporarily after some aging. So what happens to the op-amp: the output produces a spike to the rail, BANG! If the power amp gain isn't high then it's just annoying, but with enough power it could damage your speakers. The difference between theoretical and practical design comes with experience.
That is true of pots exposed to DC. These pots are connected to an opamp output on one side (presumably 0DC), opamp input on the other (slight offset), and ground. There shouldn't be any significant DC. I could add some high value capacitor on the NE5532 side to kill off that slight offset (or I could use other opamps altogether, some opamps are spec'd as OPA2134s, others are NE5532), although I wanted to use as few capacitors as possible (if only because large value = electrolytic, which dry out over time).
 
I'm wondering why you are using the 5532 anywhere. What's the attraction? Seems the 2134 is superior in all ways. The 5532 Ib is 200nA vs. 5pA and one very annoying 5532 spec is its input resistance "ri" of 300K typ, 30K min! This apposed to 10^13 for the 2134. IOW, say bye-bye to any notion that the 5532 can be treated as "ideal". Also the max input offset voltage is 5mV as opposed to 2mV (albeit the typ = 0.5mV for both) which of course is then multiplied by gain.

The worry is offset build-up

Sometimes with effects pedals - tone-benders, screamers, distortion, fuzz, overdrive, treble boosters, limiters - i see a roll-off the low end at ~100-170Hz with a front-end hi-pass. Reason given is to reduce muddiness. Many effects don't need or want a a lot of the low string freqs.
 
I'm wondering why you are using the 5532 anywhere. What's the attraction? Seems the 2134 is superior in all ways. The 5532 Ib is 200nA vs. 5pA and one very annoying 5532 spec is its input resistance "ri" of 300K typ, 30K min! This apposed to 10^13 for the 2134. IOW, say bye-bye to any notion that the 5532 can be treated as "ideal". Also the max input offset voltage is 5mV as opposed to 2mV (albeit the typ = 0.5mV for both) which of course is then multiplied by gain.

The worry is offset build-up

Sometimes with effects pedals - tone-benders, screamers, distortion, fuzz, overdrive, treble boosters, limiters - i see a roll-off the low end at ~100-170Hz with a front-end hi-pass. Reason given is to reduce muddiness. Many effects don't need or want a a lot of the low string freqs.
Offset buildup would be eliminated in a few points, since some stages are capacitor coupled.

The 5532 is, simply put, a cheaper opamp and still a very good choice for low impedance audio (low noise, low distortion, good output capabilities). I use the OPA2134 in a few places, but there are at least two places where the 5532 is a fine choice, one of which is the pre-emphasis stage.

As for low-end attenuation, effects do cut the bass, but amplifiers generally have high-pass filters around 60Hz (for guitar) or 30Hz (for bass). This is designed to be a cleanish, Fenderish preamp (still, I'm planning to add a selectable high-pass for guitar). A 20Hz (ish) subsonic filter is included at the end of the preamp, while the pre-emphasis takes care of cutting the low end, while still allowing for de-emphasis afterwards (something you can't really do with a high-pass filter). Also, shelving filters are phase-transparent as opposed to HPFs (not that it matters much).
 
That is true of pots exposed to DC. These pots are connected to an opamp output on one side (presumably 0DC), opamp input on the other (slight offset), and ground. There shouldn't be any significant DC. I could add some high value capacitor on the NE5532 side to kill off that slight offset (or I could use other opamps altogether, some opamps are spec'd as OPA2134s, others are NE5532), although I wanted to use as few capacitors as possible (if only because large value = electrolytic, which dry out over time).
Would a person be going out on a long limb in saying that probably none of the guitar/instrument amps ever made worried about this loss of pot wiper contact fear?

Btw, do you have the wherewithal to mount the 8-pin SOIC package to a DIP8 carrier/adapter? I get the impression that your choice of two op amps is constrained by the need for pluggability.
 
Last edited: