Create speaker from EV DH1506 w/horn and EVM12L?
Greetings. Executive Summary:
I have come into the possession of:
- Three DH 1506 drivers
- Three EV horns (16” deep, 9x24” length/width)
- Three EVM12L drivers
- Three non-roadworthy EV cabinets that held the 12s (won’t use)
I would like to get some opinions/recommendations regarding the use of these drivers to create diy pa speakers for vocal/acoustical instrument amplification. Thanks – more below.
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These came out of a church system. I had a speaker repair place check them out and they’re all in normal operating condition. I want to build two speakers - one of the 12s is now in a guitar cab and I figure I’ll keep a spare 1506.
I envision vocals, acoustic guitars, high-quality digital pianos, etc. coming through them, at levels they can nicely handle - I intend to baby them along with my ears.
Going for solid, military spec, old-school here. Want them to sound smooth and interesting with great singers and amazing acoustical guitars and digital Steinways going through them.
I’m figuring someone has the algorithm that can spec out reasonable designs and/or that there are existing cabinets and crossover networks that I could employ. I am reasonably proficient with my digital soldering iron and have helpers for complicated stuff. Can get good help on cabinetwork too.
I am not against a horn-loaded solution for the EVM12Ls if the components call (scream) for it. Also, if one dh1506 w/ horn is salty enough to keep up with two EVM12Ls for the ‘perfect’ solution I can get a fourth EVM12L and I know a good back surgeon.
I have an attachment to these speakers
Thank you
cjrtrio
Greetings. Executive Summary:
I have come into the possession of:
- Three DH 1506 drivers
- Three EV horns (16” deep, 9x24” length/width)
- Three EVM12L drivers
- Three non-roadworthy EV cabinets that held the 12s (won’t use)
I would like to get some opinions/recommendations regarding the use of these drivers to create diy pa speakers for vocal/acoustical instrument amplification. Thanks – more below.
---
These came out of a church system. I had a speaker repair place check them out and they’re all in normal operating condition. I want to build two speakers - one of the 12s is now in a guitar cab and I figure I’ll keep a spare 1506.
I envision vocals, acoustic guitars, high-quality digital pianos, etc. coming through them, at levels they can nicely handle - I intend to baby them along with my ears.
Going for solid, military spec, old-school here. Want them to sound smooth and interesting with great singers and amazing acoustical guitars and digital Steinways going through them.
I’m figuring someone has the algorithm that can spec out reasonable designs and/or that there are existing cabinets and crossover networks that I could employ. I am reasonably proficient with my digital soldering iron and have helpers for complicated stuff. Can get good help on cabinetwork too.
I am not against a horn-loaded solution for the EVM12Ls if the components call (scream) for it. Also, if one dh1506 w/ horn is salty enough to keep up with two EVM12Ls for the ‘perfect’ solution I can get a fourth EVM12L and I know a good back surgeon.
I have an attachment to these speakers
Thank you
cjrtrio
Congrats on your score of the old EV speakers ! Some consider the EVM12L one of the best guitar amp speakers ever. You might consider finding a special guitar amp (or two) to endow with them. Regarding your question of making some full range cabs out of these components, a quick look reveals that the DH1506 will be a good match with one EVM12L.
Its high end drops off quite quickly above 5k however, and the power rating is only 30 watts at 800hz crossover or higher. This data sheet from EV shows how to make an active (!) eq to compensate for the DH1506 rolloff. If you don't have an eq already, Id suggest building these as a "black box" type of unit, in line with the tweeter amp, or full range amp, if passive crossovers are used. Active crossover will be a bit more complex in as much as you need two amps, and an active crossover, 4 conductor wire, and connectors, but tuning the speakers will be easy as can be, quick, and give best sound.
http://www.electrovoice.com/downloadfile.php?i=970913
I like 24 db/ oct slope whenever possible.
I recommend active crossovers and an Eq that can be set up for "flat " and locked out from tampering. Use a second EQ if needed for your soundman to adjust. Also, you might consider some tweeter protection, from a fast blow fuse, to a self resetting polyswitch.
Some folks I know wire a 12 db/ oct crossover on the tweeter lower than the planned operating range, as a safety net against miswiring.
If all you can get is a 12 db/oct active crossover, then you can combine with the passive 12 db/oct for a 24 db/oct slope. Just like magic !
You could build 3 such speakers, and use 1 for a center fill at a larger show.
Good luck !
Its high end drops off quite quickly above 5k however, and the power rating is only 30 watts at 800hz crossover or higher. This data sheet from EV shows how to make an active (!) eq to compensate for the DH1506 rolloff. If you don't have an eq already, Id suggest building these as a "black box" type of unit, in line with the tweeter amp, or full range amp, if passive crossovers are used. Active crossover will be a bit more complex in as much as you need two amps, and an active crossover, 4 conductor wire, and connectors, but tuning the speakers will be easy as can be, quick, and give best sound.
http://www.electrovoice.com/downloadfile.php?i=970913
I like 24 db/ oct slope whenever possible.
I recommend active crossovers and an Eq that can be set up for "flat " and locked out from tampering. Use a second EQ if needed for your soundman to adjust. Also, you might consider some tweeter protection, from a fast blow fuse, to a self resetting polyswitch.
Some folks I know wire a 12 db/ oct crossover on the tweeter lower than the planned operating range, as a safety net against miswiring.
If all you can get is a 12 db/oct active crossover, then you can combine with the passive 12 db/oct for a 24 db/oct slope. Just like magic !
You could build 3 such speakers, and use 1 for a center fill at a larger show.
Good luck !
Zolof911-
Thank you for full-range reply.
Granted I have a quantity of non-rational attachment to these components, but a few questions remain before mental green light:
* Do you imagine that the resulting speaker with the right crossover will sound as good as a quality full range pro 12" speaker? (Idea is for it to be niftier that anything guitar center has!!).
* Would the amount of crossover/eq "doctoring" required to make it sound right render it noticeably (or annoyingly) inefficient against a purpose-built full range 12 system?
* If the dh1506 goes to 30 watts, about what total wattage would that normally extrapolate out to in a full-range scenario using an evm12l?
Thanks.
Thank you for full-range reply.
Granted I have a quantity of non-rational attachment to these components, but a few questions remain before mental green light:
* Do you imagine that the resulting speaker with the right crossover will sound as good as a quality full range pro 12" speaker? (Idea is for it to be niftier that anything guitar center has!!).
* Would the amount of crossover/eq "doctoring" required to make it sound right render it noticeably (or annoyingly) inefficient against a purpose-built full range 12 system?
* If the dh1506 goes to 30 watts, about what total wattage would that normally extrapolate out to in a full-range scenario using an evm12l?
Thanks.
On point #1, Yes. You will be building a pro speaker out of pro parts. It will be better than most of what guitar center has if you brace the cabinet very well, use Baltic or Finnish birch plywood, don't skimp on passive crossover parts (if used) and use a top notch amp to power them. Lucky old, heavy great pro amps are a dime a dozen these days.
On point #2 Not so much if you use active eq either exclusively with, or in conjunction with passive eq, rather than strictly passive eq.
On point #3, the DH1506 data sheet lists a sensitivity at 1 watt / 10 feet of 104 db. Correcting to approximately 1 m, gives you about 110 db 1w/ 1m. At 30 (really 32) watts, you get about 125 db at 1m. This is, of course, most likely in the midrange where the driver is most efficient.
An EVM12L gives a spec of 121.5 db at 200 watts, at 4 ft, just a bit more than 1m. EVM12L drivers are known to handle large peaks, so I believe you could get + 3db for program peaks, if your amp were large enough - so let's say 124 db. Since you will need to apply a lot of correction to get near flat, you will close in on the thermal limit of the tweeter a bit sooner. From 4k to 10k the DH1506 drops off about 15 db. If you try to boost the highs enough to flatten them, I feel you may lose output potential. So, just count on a rolled off treble (You may not find it a big deal for PA), or add a supertweeter to the system. You can boost some HF to extend the response, but not to 20k. If adding a supertweeter, a JBL slot tweeter is a high end option, or a Motorola piezo tweeter is a low cost option. Before you disregard the piezo, keep in mind most piezo installations do not use a proper crossover, and sound very harsh as a result.
So, you should be able to count on 122 db all day long, with peaks of 125 db on occasion.
Remember, doubling distance results in -6db audio level.
Also remember the EVM12L is a midbass driver, not useful for deep bass. You may wan to buy or build subs to go with your new speakers.
On point #2 Not so much if you use active eq either exclusively with, or in conjunction with passive eq, rather than strictly passive eq.
On point #3, the DH1506 data sheet lists a sensitivity at 1 watt / 10 feet of 104 db. Correcting to approximately 1 m, gives you about 110 db 1w/ 1m. At 30 (really 32) watts, you get about 125 db at 1m. This is, of course, most likely in the midrange where the driver is most efficient.
An EVM12L gives a spec of 121.5 db at 200 watts, at 4 ft, just a bit more than 1m. EVM12L drivers are known to handle large peaks, so I believe you could get + 3db for program peaks, if your amp were large enough - so let's say 124 db. Since you will need to apply a lot of correction to get near flat, you will close in on the thermal limit of the tweeter a bit sooner. From 4k to 10k the DH1506 drops off about 15 db. If you try to boost the highs enough to flatten them, I feel you may lose output potential. So, just count on a rolled off treble (You may not find it a big deal for PA), or add a supertweeter to the system. You can boost some HF to extend the response, but not to 20k. If adding a supertweeter, a JBL slot tweeter is a high end option, or a Motorola piezo tweeter is a low cost option. Before you disregard the piezo, keep in mind most piezo installations do not use a proper crossover, and sound very harsh as a result.
So, you should be able to count on 122 db all day long, with peaks of 125 db on occasion.
Remember, doubling distance results in -6db audio level.
Also remember the EVM12L is a midbass driver, not useful for deep bass. You may wan to buy or build subs to go with your new speakers.
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