hey guys i would like to build a single 18" subwoofer to go along with my two peavey pv115s which were super cheap but sound really good for the price. this system is what i use to dj schools,weddings ect. where volume isint usually to much of an issue. however i would still like to get as much out of it as i can.
in the $300 - $600 range of factory built subs are the peavey pv118 $300. the peavey sp118 $ $529. the yamaha s115v $500. and the jbl jrx118 $550.
so what i am asking is your guys advice as to which option would get me the most hard hitting solid clean lows, while staying under $600. i have the skills and tools to build the box if i have a design with measurements. so i would like to know what driver and box design would you advise? looking to be around 500 - 1000 rms watts. ported or sealed enclosure?
so drop $500 on a prebuilt sub like peavey or jbl? or drop 2 or $300 on a really nice driver and get a couple sheets of nice plywood (which type of plywood) and build something that will blow those subs away? or are those offered by jbl and peavey ect hard to beat for the money?
thanks for the help guys
in the $300 - $600 range of factory built subs are the peavey pv118 $300. the peavey sp118 $ $529. the yamaha s115v $500. and the jbl jrx118 $550.
so what i am asking is your guys advice as to which option would get me the most hard hitting solid clean lows, while staying under $600. i have the skills and tools to build the box if i have a design with measurements. so i would like to know what driver and box design would you advise? looking to be around 500 - 1000 rms watts. ported or sealed enclosure?
so drop $500 on a prebuilt sub like peavey or jbl? or drop 2 or $300 on a really nice driver and get a couple sheets of nice plywood (which type of plywood) and build something that will blow those subs away? or are those offered by jbl and peavey ect hard to beat for the money?
thanks for the help guys
TH-18. perfect for PA, and flat to about 35hz...which is as low as you will need to go.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/190635-th-18-flat-35hz-xoc1s-design.html
it will run you right around $600 with a decent driver such as the 18sound2400 (thats what i'm using)BUT...compare this to something like the danley TH118...NOT your little jrx 118 sub. The TH-118 is about $3,000.
So for the price and some DIY, you're getting a killer sub. 😉
TH-18's in the middle. they totally DESTROY the cerwin powered 18" subs that are next to them
or you could go with a pair of ss15's which will be light and easy to move around. But at current pricing for 3015lf's, I would look into a different driver.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/190635-th-18-flat-35hz-xoc1s-design.html
it will run you right around $600 with a decent driver such as the 18sound2400 (thats what i'm using)BUT...compare this to something like the danley TH118...NOT your little jrx 118 sub. The TH-118 is about $3,000.
So for the price and some DIY, you're getting a killer sub. 😉
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
TH-18's in the middle. they totally DESTROY the cerwin powered 18" subs that are next to them
or you could go with a pair of ss15's which will be light and easy to move around. But at current pricing for 3015lf's, I would look into a different driver.
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to get the most out of your $ diy th is the way to go.
$300,- for the speaker$200,for the rest
RCF L18P200-n $329,- @ p.e.
there are a few topics on 18"pa th's,just use the search.
were willing to help 🙂
$300,- for the speaker$200,for the rest
RCF L18P200-n $329,- @ p.e.
there are a few topics on 18"pa th's,just use the search.
were willing to help 🙂
I am new to this site, but there are alot of decent folks here that can get down to the nuts and bolts of what I am about to recommend.
I guess first, do you use the PV 115's on stands? The Brand speakers you mentioned all have pole cups on top for using a pole to elevate your tops for better dispersion.
I use a pair of these in 4.4 cubes ea.slot port tuned to 41hz :
Dayton Audio PA380-8 15" Pro Woofer 295-034
They far exceeded my expectations for 15's in a simple regular vented enclosure.
For $89 ea ($85 ea. if you bought 4) and no shipping costs from PE, you could build 2 enclosures with a pair in each... maybe even use 3/4 MDF, depending on how and how often you move them around.
It would be handy if one of the others here would chime in and toss up some dimensions for say, 8 cubes tuned to 40hz? My modeling software is locked up on another computer, or I would do it.
The Dayton 18" sub can be had for $125 ea and have some pretty impressive specs at that price:
Dayton Audio PA460-8 18" Pro Woofer 295-036
Again, I would suggest a pair in a ported box, or 2 separate enclosures tuned down around 40hz ea.
I hope you find these suggestions useful and good luck in your bass quest.
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Simple, if you want to 'blow away' the subs as mentioned you have only two choices:
1.) Get better drivers (more Xmax for more displacement) and more amp power.
2.) Make the subs more efficient by using a Tapped Horn (like the Xoc1 or the Cubo Sub for instance), Hybrid horn or a more traditional horn.
(In case you want to make sure use both options😉 )
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i just figured for now it would be easier to carry around two single 18s than a dual, im not against the idea of a dual. i am buying some dual 18 cabs later on down the road for a bigger system but for now i am making money dj'ng highschools.
do folded horns produce more bass than sealed enclosures? and what is a tapped horn and a good possibly simple box design?
in order of efficientie:sealed(not for dj-ing imo),bassreflex,tapped horn,front loaded horn.
frontloaded horn best work in multyples and are verry big.
so your options are bassreflex wich are reasenable size or a tapped horn wich is bigger but has a lot more output(~+6 db max compared to br)
for br and th you need a hpfilter to keep excursion under control below fb.
here are some examples of tapped horn toppics:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/190635-th-18-flat-35hz-xoc1s-design.html
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/170771-single-sheet-th-challenge.html
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/178029-c-e-x-pa-flat-30-ft30-pa-th-awesomeness.html
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subw...ish-120-w-rcf-l18p200.html?highlight=rcf+35hz
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/170749-15-tapped-horn-rcf.html?highlight=rcf+35hz
frontloaded horn best work in multyples and are verry big.
so your options are bassreflex wich are reasenable size or a tapped horn wich is bigger but has a lot more output(~+6 db max compared to br)
for br and th you need a hpfilter to keep excursion under control below fb.
here are some examples of tapped horn toppics:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/190635-th-18-flat-35hz-xoc1s-design.html
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/170771-single-sheet-th-challenge.html
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/178029-c-e-x-pa-flat-30-ft30-pa-th-awesomeness.html
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subw...ish-120-w-rcf-l18p200.html?highlight=rcf+35hz
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/170749-15-tapped-horn-rcf.html?highlight=rcf+35hz
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