Could I get some beginner woodworking advice please?

[myhrrhleine]

another option is to go to a woodworkers store.
they usually have tools you can use. Just sign up for a class. you can also do your table saw cuts there and do the rest at home.
as for cuts on the floor, use a few 2X4 underneath as spacers.

when buying saw blades, be sure to buy good quality blades. and be sure to use the right blade for the job.
you could use a general purpose blade but having the right blade is better.

 

[Grarea]

The Makita track saw is awesome, and you can get a second track that ties into the one it comes with to make full length cuts.

I’ve had one for 3 or 4 yrs and use it a lot. A straightedge and a saw is nowhere near the performance of a proper track saw.

I see. Not seen those before.
Am I right in thinking that they have to be used with the track though?

 

[kevinahcc20]

Don't have to but the track is the magic...it's the straightedge you were going to make but better and more versatile than you are likely to achieve on your own. I also have the Makita and it performs very well.

 

[mountainman bob]

I’ve used it for a couple things other than on the track, like for one it cuts very close to flush on the side and I’ve used it to cut out flooring up against the walls but it’s not really meant to be used as a regular circular saw as you know it…..I would also keep the circular saw you have and upgrade it later. Track saw would be instead of a table saw.

 

[Adam H]

when buying saw blades, be sure to buy good quality blades. and be sure to use the right blade for the job.
you could use a general purpose blade but having the right blade is better.

This is important. The best thing you can do for your woodworking is to use
quality, sharp blades. Hand tools and power tools, you're only as good as your
blade. Make sure you have the right tooth count for the job and wood type
you're using.

With router blades, don't bother with those multi-bit sets. You'll find you only
use a few of them while the rest will end up wasting space in a small workshop.
They also go dull fast. Spend your money on a few good quality blades instead.

Track saws are awesome. Just inspect the tracks before you buy. Close is not
good enough here. It's not hard to find a track with a very slight curve. A
bonus with the track saw is that you can get router attachments and used the
track with your router. Track saws do not replace circular saws.

All that said, don't forget the power of hand tools. They're quiet, they're clean,
and they're accurate. I find for most jobs, hand tools are as fast or faster than
power tools. The big time saver is tool set-up.

 

[Grarea]

It is good to keep seeing this.
I appreciate all of the comments and advice.


I agree with your comments about hand tools.
I had to saw something last night. ('had' to)
Quick and quiet.
However.
I would disagree with the accurate bit when they are in my hands.

 

[Grarea]

I have a router and a selection of bits on their way to me.
Thank you gents.
I am looking forward to this.

 

[SpeakerBob]

Have a search on youtube for diy router jigs, they are a lot more versatile than most people think.

 

[Andrew LB]

A 1/2 router (DW625 is about as good as you can go), a circular saw (what you have is ok), a jigsaw (Makita 4350 is by far the best I`ve had and with the right blade it can cut super straight) and a drill for all those hole saws and a larger bit to drill a hole before inserting the jigsaw knife. Then comes the number one used tool - good orbital sander. I think its hard to beat the Metabo SXE 450 here and 150mm sanding discs will come much cheaper than 125mm ones. That`s about what you want, one good quality rasp (I like the Bahco wood rasps a lot) and clamps (Bessey).

Best circular saw i've used is my Makita 5377MG magnesium hypoid saw. Blade is on the left instead of the right and it's an absolute beast. The very first thing i did when i got the saw was to remove the Makita blade, tossed it into a drawer, and installed a Diablo 60 tooth ultra finish blade. First thing i made was a track saw out of plywood which is long enough to break down full sheets of MDF, Birch Ply, and normal ply. I've had the makita 15 years and nothing slows it down, even hardwood. I've even cut 1/4" aluminum plate with it.



If you want a quality jig saw, buy a Bosch. They're expensive though. Bosch also makes some of the best sanders out there. Their high end GET65-5N is easily on par with Festool at a fraction of the price.



One of the most important things you can buy is a good vacuum. Your lungs will thank you. I use a relatively inexpensive Ridgid 14 gallon NXT wet/dry vacuum with BOTH the drywall collection bags and a GORE Cleanstream washable filter. hooked up to my Bosch sander, i get pretty much zero dust in my garage. It also is able to collect 90% of the shavings from my router with a special attachment I 3d printed. Before when routing MDF the cloud of dust was nuts. A cyclone separator is also handy so you don't have to replace the bags too often.

 

[NickKUK]

* shop vacuum
* chisels + sharpener
* wood mallet
* tennon saw or mitre saw or tennon saw in a mitre saw adaptor.
* 90 that you can rely on
* metal rule that you can rely on.
* if you're glueing then wood clamps
* if you're doing a lot of fitting work then a scraper

So at a minimum:
Chisels: Kirschen 1101 6 Piece Bevel Edge Chisel Set | Axminster Tools + sharpening stone: Waterstones - Sharpening Tools - Hand Tools | Axminster Tools
Wood Mallet: Mallets - Hammers, Mallets & Punches - Hand Tools | Axminster Tools
A good 90: Squares, Bevels & Angle Measuring - Marking, Measuring & Levels - Hand Tools | Axminster Tools
Wood clamps vary but the one handed variety are useful to have a couple around: One Handed Bar Clamps - Clamps - Hand Tools | Axminster Tools
Scraper: https://www.axminstertools.com/hand-tools/planes-spokeshaves-scrapers/cabinet-scrapers

Note you will NOT be needing the wood mallet with the chisels they are lethally sharp. Hand pressure is fine. Also axminister is expensive but all the tools in one specialist place..

And one of the most important devices in a wood workshop - a vacuum: Vacuum Cleaners & Blowers - Power Tools | Axminster Tools
You could go for a Henry hoover: https://www.myhenry.co.uk/henry-hvr160 which the building trade loves.
I went for a Numatic - steel case and is used heavily for everything in the garage.

If your sanding in a small environment then a particles mask or a dust extractor needs to be used as breathing in the small stuff is not good for you.

 

[Grarea]

This is great, thanks. Thank you as well for the links, it is great to have a an example of things.
I wouldn't know what counts as 'decent' for things like chisels.


I was just pondering chisels and squares and things.
Thanks also for the 'that you can rely on' part.
I do have a little square and a metal rule, but they have been thrown in tool boxes. I have chisels that need a hammer.
Other than that, the only other thing i have is a Henry hoover.

 

[suzyj]

More important than the brand of chisel is that you look after them. I have a set of well-used Irwin chisels. They’re pretty basic, but I keep them really sharp using a 300 grit and 1200 grit whetstone. They’re lovely to use.

I like to use planes also. I have very old Stanley no. 4, no. 5, no. 7, and no. 220, which are amazingly useful. Again, care for the blades. When working with MDF or ply, I often cut a millimetre or two from a line using my jigsaw, then finish with planes. The result is extremely accurate. The big no. 7 plane is fantastic for flattening timber panels, such as bench tops and the like.

 

[Grarea]

Thank you.
Oh, yes, I had forgotten about planes.
I have a couple of old planes that i have picked up. I have never really used them. One is a Stanley No 4 (I think it was) It feels lovely. Then a little diddy plane as well. They feel well made.
I have yet to sharpen them and see how they are.
I often go for Irwin items. They tend to do the job don't they? Drill bits, saw blades etc.

I was watching this guy talking about cheap chisels.
I might have a crack at my cheap ones first. (The brand might not matter, but I don't think mine even have a brand 🙂 )
Cheap chisels? How to make them scary sharp! - YouTube

 

[Adam H]

Don't underestimate those old Stanley planes. They're great. The blades are excellent.

Chisels: the main difference between the good ones and cheap ones
is the quality of steel. Better steel holds an edge for a lot longer than
cheap steel does. It doesn't mean the cheap ones can't get the job done.

 

[SpeakerBob]

Just to be clear was the original question about building speakers or general woodworking ?

(I've never needed planes or chisels on my speaker builds)

Rob.

 

[suzyj]

When I built my Ariels, I made extensive use of my planes. Finishing the edges of re-sawn jarrah, cutting the large radius on the sides of the baffle, you name it.

 

[AllenB]

^ If I didn't know better I might assume you are a professional, or at least related to someone who is 😉

 

[avtech]

Don't underestimate those old Stanley planes. They're great. The blades are excellent.

I've got a #7 Stanley that is over a century old. The blade is a bit shorter, but original and still slides through wood like butter.

Whether you use new or old, a sharp tool is the best tool.

 

[Grarea]

It is about general woodworking.
Well, initially the post was to get me going with speakers, but I have other things I would like to be able to do as well.
I love wood and have never had the chance to play until now.
So any advice is gratefully accepted.



My thinking is that speakers is a great place to start.
This OB project is a good start.
But you need to be accurate with speakers eh?

Suzyj, that is an object of beauty.
Wonderful.

 

[AllenB]

Accurate? As a blanket statement relating to speakers I'd say not necessarily. Like any kind of construction you need to know how accurate to be (also known as tolerances) on different parts of the job for a bunch of different reasons.