I have my Stryke AV12 driver now. It is a fabulous part. Everything about it says "craftsmanship". My hat is off to the folks at TC sounds for producing such quality drivers. You may want a HE15 for an URPS (Under Resonance Principle Subwoofer -- like the ELF/EAS) becasue they eat driver excursion for lunch. Also, contact Stryke's proprietor, John Janowitz, and see how much power you can safely power a HE15 with, and get a pro amp that can supply that, because you will need all of it. A HE15 should be cheaper than an Adire Tumult. It has slightly less excursion, but it will be potent enough to handle everything you throw at it.
In addition, make sure that your box is built of double-layered 3/4" MDF and add at least two internal shelf braces. think about making it strong enough that an elephant could tap-dance on top. With all that power being fed to the driver, the enclosure needs to be unshakable. It will weigh a ton, but for a subwoofer that's a very GOOd thing.
In addition, make sure that your box is built of double-layered 3/4" MDF and add at least two internal shelf braces. think about making it strong enough that an elephant could tap-dance on top. With all that power being fed to the driver, the enclosure needs to be unshakable. It will weigh a ton, but for a subwoofer that's a very GOOd thing.
I hope not
I did some more research last night and notice that Joe Rasmussen is another who prefers two subs to one. He states that if using one, it must be placed exactly between the two main speakers which in my room would not be practical. So it looks like whatever I build will have to be a two box affair.
I have aways been of the opinion if the main speakers go down to about 40Hz, you can get away with a single sub. Above that no.
If you want a demo of a single sub setup, you are welcome to come over to my place and have a listen. My room is 12 x 17 so not too unlike yours. I have my sub slightly to one side and it's fine. In fact it's so good I'm thinking of not bothering with a dipole sub now. I think it's crossed over at 80Hz, but I need to check that with a test tone sweep. However, my mains go down to at least 50 Hz.
The sub is a cheap affair using a £30 12 incher from BK Electronics, one of their 100W MOSFET amps and a Linkwitz Transform. It's plenty loud enough for music, but just almost runs out of steam with films at my desired listening level.
The sub is a cheap affair using a £30 12 incher from BK Electronics, one of their 100W MOSFET amps and a Linkwitz Transform. It's plenty loud enough for music, but just almost runs out of steam with films at my desired listening level.
I think that is why you find that one sub works but I certainly wouldn't mind a listen. Where exactly are you?
Konnichiwa,
It certainly works fine for me.
No, for ELF the requirement is a Driver with a Qt & Fs that is comparably low, so that when build into the box the Qt is 0.7 and the Fs about the same as the speaker it is meant to match. Of you can use the Linkwitz "poles & zeros" EQ and a normal (adjustable) lowpass filter.
Yup. A pair of 12" in one appx. 16" cube woofer works fine here.
Sayonara
Nuuk said:
It certainly works fine for me.
Nuuk said:
No, for ELF the requirement is a Driver with a Qt & Fs that is comparably low, so that when build into the box the Qt is 0.7 and the Fs about the same as the speaker it is meant to match. Of you can use the Linkwitz "poles & zeros" EQ and a normal (adjustable) lowpass filter.
Nuuk said:
Yup. A pair of 12" in one appx. 16" cube woofer works fine here.
Sayonara
Warminster - half way between Salisbury and Bath. I think it's probably about an hour for you, maybe slightly more?
And to you Mr KYW - I thought that you would never get here 😉
Thanks for the clarification on the EAS driver requirements and your experience with open baffles+subs.
Are you using EAS/ELF or are your subs just sealed box types with crossovers?
You know how Bose Acoustimass modules put out a ton of midbass? Well, when I got a set of Cambridge Soundworks Ensemble IVs for my parents' house, I found that the little bass module also was putting out more than its share of midbass. On the Bose web site, they say that the best placement for an Acoustimass module so as to not screw up the image as badly is to put it along the front wall, with the port firing along the wall. Perhaps with a single subwoofer, you could also do this. I tried it with the little Ensemble bass module and it really helped the midbass to seem to come from the little speakers. (dangerous words...)
I still like my dual AV8-TL's idea. But if you've got the time and money, I would say do dual EAS/ELF/LT subwoofers. Make sure you are using powerful, high-excursion drivers, though.
I still like my dual AV8-TL's idea. But if you've got the time and money, I would say do dual EAS/ELF/LT subwoofers. Make sure you are using powerful, high-excursion drivers, though.
Ah - UFO country eh? At least it used to be!
Yes, it is about an hour, or used to be before some idiot came up with the idea of 20mph speed limits in every village along the way. Soon it will be quicker to go by stage coach!
Well, I'll have to think about borrowing a car and get back to you on that one but the above post has swung me toward two of whatever I decide to go for.
Thanks BAM (your post appeared while I was replying to Richie).
That is not really an option for me in my listening room.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
That is sooo spooky! I've only been living there about 18 months and knew nothing of the UFOs. Then only this morning on the way in to work I found out! And now you mentioned it too!
Good luck with your sub project. As I said, mine only just runs out on films so am looking to build something new that doesn't break the bank. I may go with a 15 incher and try to make it into a table or something, or possibly use the two 12 inchers I have now (only 1 in use though) and build 2 smaller units.
As KYW said, dipole-suited T/S specs are not really that great for a boxed sub. I will add to that that you should not place the sub closer to you than half the distance of your mains - otherwise you can tell where the sound comes from. That was in a different house though, I suppose I should try again in this house and see...
Konnichiwa,
I use Equalised with passive Poles/Zero PLUS adjustable EQ (0...+6db @ 20...40Hz) and a 3rd order adjustable LPF, using the Thomessen Module from Germany.
So it is not EAS/ELF but a mixture.
If I where to build my own Amp and build the Sub for a Specific system I'd probably measure my Speakers in room (-6db point is required, not -3db) and then select box and driver to give a matching Sub using EAS (dual integrator).
I have attached a little Excel (97 or above) Spreadsheet that calculates EAS systems based on the integrator being Rin = 10kOhm; Rfb = 470kOhm; Cfb = 100nF. I have included two pieces of "best guess fudge" for the responses of the open baffled Supravox and Axiom plus some subs.... I tried to attch the zipped up file - it's too large. Hence if you want the file, e-mail me at work (strictly Nuuk only, all others will be ignored).
Sayonara
Nuuk said:
I use Equalised with passive Poles/Zero PLUS adjustable EQ (0...+6db @ 20...40Hz) and a 3rd order adjustable LPF, using the Thomessen Module from Germany.
So it is not EAS/ELF but a mixture.
If I where to build my own Amp and build the Sub for a Specific system I'd probably measure my Speakers in room (-6db point is required, not -3db) and then select box and driver to give a matching Sub using EAS (dual integrator).
I have attached a little Excel (97 or above) Spreadsheet that calculates EAS systems based on the integrator being Rin = 10kOhm; Rfb = 470kOhm; Cfb = 100nF. I have included two pieces of "best guess fudge" for the responses of the open baffled Supravox and Axiom plus some subs.... I tried to attch the zipped up file - it's too large. Hence if you want the file, e-mail me at work (strictly Nuuk only, all others will be ignored).
Sayonara
Thanks again Richie. I hope to fire the woofers through the main baffles so that the subs are somewhat concealed. With the width of the baffles, there is no option to place them to the side of the main baffles.
I had thought of building the sub boxes onto the back of the main baffles but guess that would add vibrations that may affect the main driver. So I am thinking of placing a separate sub box imediately behind the baffles, possibly 'connected' with something that won't transfer all the vibrations.
KYW, I just had my email returned as undeliverable, recipient not known. The address I used was your nhs one!
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