I have a set of Corel Beta 8 that has not been used. I'm thinking of using it in a rear loaded horn cabinet. I have also considered a taped TL. However, I have read that TL puts a lot of pressure on the cone and it is therefore good if it is a fairly rigid cone. Since the cone is quite light, I think it is not suitable for that.
But what is really my question is that I would like to take the hard top end off (peak at about 10K). There is a diagram for a nocth filter, but I would probably rather make it as a 2-way. The obvious thing would be to supplement with a super tweeter, but after what I've seen that GR Research does, I'm more inclined to make it as a traditional 2-way and let an ordinary tweeter work down to maybe 2K Hz (Corel 8 also has af big dip at 2,3K). According to GR Researsh, cutting at very high frequencies is very, very critical in terms of placement in order not to get counterface. Danny shows an example with his own full tone unit. What is your experience, should you look at the fact that it is a full tone and then just use it as a normal mid-woofer or should you rather do like the Horning Hybrid speakers, they have a super tweeter from a very high frequency together with a Lowther. Is it because he tests with 1st order that placement is more critical since the overlap is greater.
But do I ruin the whole idea with that driver if I don't take advantage of the fact that it plays over the entire spectrum.
Regards
Henrik
But what is really my question is that I would like to take the hard top end off (peak at about 10K). There is a diagram for a nocth filter, but I would probably rather make it as a 2-way. The obvious thing would be to supplement with a super tweeter, but after what I've seen that GR Research does, I'm more inclined to make it as a traditional 2-way and let an ordinary tweeter work down to maybe 2K Hz (Corel 8 also has af big dip at 2,3K). According to GR Researsh, cutting at very high frequencies is very, very critical in terms of placement in order not to get counterface. Danny shows an example with his own full tone unit. What is your experience, should you look at the fact that it is a full tone and then just use it as a normal mid-woofer or should you rather do like the Horning Hybrid speakers, they have a super tweeter from a very high frequency together with a Lowther. Is it because he tests with 1st order that placement is more critical since the overlap is greater.
But do I ruin the whole idea with that driver if I don't take advantage of the fact that it plays over the entire spectrum.
Regards
Henrik
There af a web caled rutcho.com. He has measurements of it, but the page is out of order right now.
It would of course be great if there is someone who can tell what is best based on the frequency curve, which is on that site, but it is also somewhat in general terms, I am asking about the super tweeter vs. let the tweeter go as deep as possible which is normal for a 2 way. So the peak around 10K and the dip around 2.3K are avoided, but my concerns are whether it ruins the idea of having a full range if you only use it as a midwoofer.
It would of course be great if there is someone who can tell what is best based on the frequency curve, which is on that site, but it is also somewhat in general terms, I am asking about the super tweeter vs. let the tweeter go as deep as possible which is normal for a 2 way. So the peak around 10K and the dip around 2.3K are avoided, but my concerns are whether it ruins the idea of having a full range if you only use it as a midwoofer.
Thanks for the link. I've never come across that site before, although I've searched quite a bit on Coral Beta 8. I also found some drawings of the horn cabinet which is probably what I'll be going for. I would say that this site has probably convinced me that it will be better to go with a regular 2 way XO cutting just under 2K. The correction filter he has made is far too complex for my taste. It was, on the other hand, I saw with a single notch filter, I liked it better, but I haven't heard the driver at all. But I don't want to put such a drastic filter on it, the components should be of only fair quality, then you will be able to buy a rather expensive tweeter instead. And maybe you can find tweeter who matches in sensitivity so that you can avoid resistance.
If I were you, I would employ this drive unit with only one or two networks to shape the 3-5 kHz region (baffle step too) to better suit my taste, leaving the rest intact, in a ported cabinet, angled off-axis a bit. It's something for wide band units aficionados. Should the lack of deeper bass and/or HF be significant, I'd consider a different set of units, and leave this one alone.