Well, in my hunt for a OHP to use with my cheap setup, I called the local city school board, who said we (me and my wife) could look thru all the "junk" they had in the warehouse.
OHP graveyard! All of them had been stripped of anything useful, but then I found an older looking (still newer looking then MOST of the stuff in there) Apollo A1-1000 with a label "sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't". I knew NOTHING of this brand, but it seemed like it had all it's guts in it, and a bulb, so I took it to the front, and they said I could have it for 10 bucks (after they found out it worked). I take it home, and find out it has a DYS bulb in it! And here I was thinking it might be well under 4000 lumens because it was in a school graveyard, but it makes sense, as it was the only one without stripped parts(that could be used to fix other school owned OHP).
I've bad and good about these things, and while I don't really see a downside, other then it being BLAZING HOT. It already has one huge fan sucking air out of it, would adding another help any?
I only ask because I haven't ran it for long time, but it seems to get fairly hot, and while I know these get hot, is there anything I can do to cool it better?
I guess more lumens is better then not enough. For 10 bucks anyway.
PS: This is my first DIY setup, so if anything stupid was said, forgive me!
OHP graveyard! All of them had been stripped of anything useful, but then I found an older looking (still newer looking then MOST of the stuff in there) Apollo A1-1000 with a label "sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't". I knew NOTHING of this brand, but it seemed like it had all it's guts in it, and a bulb, so I took it to the front, and they said I could have it for 10 bucks (after they found out it worked). I take it home, and find out it has a DYS bulb in it! And here I was thinking it might be well under 4000 lumens because it was in a school graveyard, but it makes sense, as it was the only one without stripped parts(that could be used to fix other school owned OHP).
I've bad and good about these things, and while I don't really see a downside, other then it being BLAZING HOT. It already has one huge fan sucking air out of it, would adding another help any?
I only ask because I haven't ran it for long time, but it seems to get fairly hot, and while I know these get hot, is there anything I can do to cool it better?
I guess more lumens is better then not enough. For 10 bucks anyway.
PS: This is my first DIY setup, so if anything stupid was said, forgive me!
your bulb is fine. it is your LCD need to be properly cooled. try to use some computer case fans blowing onto your lcd panel directly. It helps to keep LCD in its operating temperature.
Thanks for the reply!
So would this fan need to just be over it? Or should I lift the panel somehow and have the fan blow under it as well?
So would this fan need to just be over it? Or should I lift the panel somehow and have the fan blow under it as well?
I actually have the exact same projector running with a Kogi L4AX. Heat is definitely a problem with a 600W halogen, but with intake and outake fans running air over the lcd (which is suspended by some Lexan XL 10, avail at Home depot, letting air go both over and under) there is no problem with heat on the lcd. Although the metal casing of the projector itself still gets very very hot to the touch.
Just a quick Q. Where did you get your info of 17,000 lumens? I've been hard pressed to find specs for this old thing.
Just a quick Q. Where did you get your info of 17,000 lumens? I've been hard pressed to find specs for this old thing.
YOU had a hard time? It took me ALOT of digging, and even THAT might not be a right spec. I'm pretty sure it is, however. I think I looked at a bulb for this exact model, and it said that was the output of the OHP, I didn't belive it, so I searched the archives on this forum, and found some people saying it was 17,000 lumens, and another site I can't remember right now, let me see what I can dig up!
And thanks for the idea, I never thought of using that stuff to lift it.
I just need to buy some fans and wire them up eh? *breaks out old electronics book*
And thanks for the idea, I never thought of using that stuff to lift it.
I just need to buy some fans and wire them up eh? *breaks out old electronics book*
It seems I must have gotton that figure off another forum, and the bulb supply places list it as "17,000 int. lumens"
On a side note, whats a DYS-5? 80% power of a normal DYS (= less heat right?) and twice the life!?!?
On a side note, whats a DYS-5? 80% power of a normal DYS (= less heat right?) and twice the life!?!?
Yup, looks like your right, 17,000 lumens. Wow. I miss judged the power a bit. There is lots of stray light leakage though, so I guess it works out. (source: http://www.topbulb.com/find/Product_Description.asp?intProductID=43769)
The DYS/5 is definitely nice with the 150 hour life span, but your cutting your lumens by 1,500 (roughly 9%), which might not seem so bad, but with the lcd blocking nearly 80% of the light anyways. You may or may not see much of a difference depending on your setup.
The AI-1000 leaks literally tons of light, still can get a pretty good image, but any light leakage will cut down the contrast of your projected image. I made a rough cardboard 4-sided pyramid type setup, added a few fans (the ones I used I haven't seen anyone else use, they are the PCI slot computer ones, which, because of the angle in them cuts down on light leakage considerably compared to a normal 80mm or 120mm fan), because of this have managed to cut off all light leakage except through the huge side fan. It definitely makes a difference.
I'd post some pics but I have to find a replacement fresnel for this, as the one that I bought with it is bent and has a white film that will not wash off on it (somewhat like what you get on glasses after washing in the dishwasher many times). It does work, just makes about half of the screen a brownish tint.
Love to hear any other ideas you have for enhancing this setup, as I'd like to make this as good as possible until I can bring together enough money to build a whole projector from scratch.
The DYS/5 is definitely nice with the 150 hour life span, but your cutting your lumens by 1,500 (roughly 9%), which might not seem so bad, but with the lcd blocking nearly 80% of the light anyways. You may or may not see much of a difference depending on your setup.
The AI-1000 leaks literally tons of light, still can get a pretty good image, but any light leakage will cut down the contrast of your projected image. I made a rough cardboard 4-sided pyramid type setup, added a few fans (the ones I used I haven't seen anyone else use, they are the PCI slot computer ones, which, because of the angle in them cuts down on light leakage considerably compared to a normal 80mm or 120mm fan), because of this have managed to cut off all light leakage except through the huge side fan. It definitely makes a difference.
I'd post some pics but I have to find a replacement fresnel for this, as the one that I bought with it is bent and has a white film that will not wash off on it (somewhat like what you get on glasses after washing in the dishwasher many times). It does work, just makes about half of the screen a brownish tint.
Love to hear any other ideas you have for enhancing this setup, as I'd like to make this as good as possible until I can bring together enough money to build a whole projector from scratch.
exhaust fan?
I've been thinking of getting an exhaust fan from Home Depot or some such place and hooking it up when I finally build my projector. Even though it's mid winter and freezing out, when I ran the lamp I plan to use, my tiny apartment overheated very quickly. I figure that I could stick one in the window and hook a clothes dryer exhaust duct (one of those flexible ones) to it and hook the other end to the projector. If you are in a warmer region I would think that this would be almost a necessity considering how much heat you seem to be describing. If you check out some more of the threads you can find some very good suggestions on how to ventilate these things without light leakage.
I've been thinking of getting an exhaust fan from Home Depot or some such place and hooking it up when I finally build my projector. Even though it's mid winter and freezing out, when I ran the lamp I plan to use, my tiny apartment overheated very quickly. I figure that I could stick one in the window and hook a clothes dryer exhaust duct (one of those flexible ones) to it and hook the other end to the projector. If you are in a warmer region I would think that this would be almost a necessity considering how much heat you seem to be describing. If you check out some more of the threads you can find some very good suggestions on how to ventilate these things without light leakage.
Yeah It sure does leak alot of light! I was also thinking of building something like you described, to keep all the light in, I saw a picture of a setup like that somewhere on here.....
I might get the DYS-5 for kicks, see how it works.
17,000 lumens, I know, I was shocked to!
I got this A1-1000 only a week ago, and I noticed it has a HUGE grease/something spot on the mirror! DUH! Replacing that might spiffy up the image a bit don't you think?
I might get the DYS-5 for kicks, see how it works.
17,000 lumens, I know, I was shocked to!
I got this A1-1000 only a week ago, and I noticed it has a HUGE grease/something spot on the mirror! DUH! Replacing that might spiffy up the image a bit don't you think?
I have the same projector also, but I'm waiting on my LCD which should be here in 2 days. Anyone have pics from a OHP with a DYS bulb?
If the results are good I plan on making a 3 part fiberglass box to house the OHP and a fiberglass stand to rest the LCD on and provide cooling.
My screen is 15" and the stage area is only 10x10 though. I'm worried about that ....
If the results are good I plan on making a 3 part fiberglass box to house the OHP and a fiberglass stand to rest the LCD on and provide cooling.
My screen is 15" and the stage area is only 10x10 though. I'm worried about that ....
efractal said:
As stated above there's tons of light leakage with these. Fiberglass housing should be nice, but it's not exactly the most friendly thing to work with. As far as the staging area goes your going to lose a bit of your screen on either side, and the corners will be cropped a bit because of the way the fresnels are shaped. To get a bit more coverage pull the fresnel out from below the glass and put it above, under the lcd. Also for more direct light you can cut into the plastic frame up top as I did. (it cuts quite nicely with a hack saw or for corners a jig saw) If you really want to be able to see everything on this OHP you'll have to cut the plastic top and buy new fresnels that are larger.
I can't put up pictures yet as I'm waiting on a new pair of fresnels and in experimenting messed the others up pretty badly. But once those arrive, hopefully later this week, I'll pop some up.
Here is my inspiration for the fiberglass housing:
My version:
I have no idea what that is, but its the perfect shape and look for my room. Very 60's Sci-Fi 🙂 I work with Fiberglass alot so this will be a simple design.
Its going to be a thin wood skeleton, 3 parts. Bottom part will wrap around the OHP lightbox base (I'm keeping the metal base since it acts as a heatsink). The largest rectangle will cover the length of the adjusting arm (which will probably be removed completely). And the top will be a circle with a hole cutout for the lense. I need my LCD before I can start building though. It will not be adjustable when its done.
Thanks for the tips about the fresnel. When my screen gets here I will start modding the staging area.
Are you talking about the housing for the lens/mirror? Have any pics?
My Dremel likes to cut stuff
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
My version:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I have no idea what that is, but its the perfect shape and look for my room. Very 60's Sci-Fi 🙂 I work with Fiberglass alot so this will be a simple design.
Its going to be a thin wood skeleton, 3 parts. Bottom part will wrap around the OHP lightbox base (I'm keeping the metal base since it acts as a heatsink). The largest rectangle will cover the length of the adjusting arm (which will probably be removed completely). And the top will be a circle with a hole cutout for the lense. I need my LCD before I can start building though. It will not be adjustable when its done.
Thanks for the tips about the fresnel. When my screen gets here I will start modding the staging area.
Are you talking about the housing for the lens/mirror? Have any pics?
My Dremel likes to cut stuff
Forgot: I plan on making a triangle inner-box to guide the light to lense. Not sure if that will help at all. I will use carboard to run some trial tests 🙂
For some reason now, I get a bright spot in the middle of the picture, it's the OHP, and not the panel....
Wonder how to fix this? I'd like to make this setup last as long as possible (like others!)
Wonder how to fix this? I'd like to make this setup last as long as possible (like others!)
efractal said:
Are you talking about the housing for the lens/mirror? Have any pics?
My Dremel likes to cut stuff
Talking about the white top part of the OHP that the slides would normally lay on.
I really like your idea for the design. Although because it is so enclosed you may need some more air flow (extra fan or something). Best way to find out is just experiment.
As far as the inner box goes you want to cut down on as much stray light after the lcd as possible. So that plus painting the inside of the box black should aid in the picture.
Tritoch84 said:
The light spot may just be that the lamp is too close to the lcd. Luckily in the AI-1000 this is adjustable. Take a flat head screw driver and turn the screw on the back of the OHP, in where there is room to fold up the power cable. No guarantees as to if this will help, but it's worth a try.
Thanks! I'll tinker with it.
Now if I could only get a higher contrast image.
I think thats what everyone is trying to get though, heh.
I think it needs a replacment mirror, and a new fraynel lens, it's rather dirty with stuck on stuff, and the mirror in the ohp looks like it's been damaged right where it reflects, not sure how big a deal this is, I'm still learning.
Things again.
Now if I could only get a higher contrast image.
I think thats what everyone is trying to get though, heh.
I think it needs a replacment mirror, and a new fraynel lens, it's rather dirty with stuck on stuff, and the mirror in the ohp looks like it's been damaged right where it reflects, not sure how big a deal this is, I'm still learning.
Things again.
Well, I tried moving that "screw" in the back to raise and lower the bulb, and if I so much as move it a little, the top of the projected image becomes blurry (but not the panel)! It only looks ok when I leave it all the way turned to,,,can't remember, I think all the way down (the way it came) or else the top of the projected image gets blurry.
I'm kind of a newb, what causes this?
I'm kind of a newb, what causes this?
Oh of course! Nothing focus's it. However...
I don't know much about mirrors, but mine seems mighty,,,well, burnt, when the OHP is on. Looks nice and clean when it's off, but when it's on, the area where it's been used the most is really blurry looking, on the mirror itself. When I move the OHP mirror to the top of the ceiling, the problem is NOT there(Or not as bad, depending on how far up I move the bulb)! I don't understand.....
Guess I'll figure it out one day.
I don't know much about mirrors, but mine seems mighty,,,well, burnt, when the OHP is on. Looks nice and clean when it's off, but when it's on, the area where it's been used the most is really blurry looking, on the mirror itself. When I move the OHP mirror to the top of the ceiling, the problem is NOT there(Or not as bad, depending on how far up I move the bulb)! I don't understand.....
Guess I'll figure it out one day.
- Status
- Not open for further replies.