Hmmm.... maybe an interference issue then. Might have to experiment with input/output filters. Maybe a RC and ferrite on the input and CLC on the output. At the very least try some low impedence caps on the outputs.
So I hooked up a new one the way I think it should be hooked up just to make sure I wasn't missing something else. Well when I conected teh battery power to the system the dc to dc converter went up in smoke.
Back to the drawing board :-(
Also when I connect power from the battery there is a pretty big spark.
If I was to put some filters on the input of the dc to dc converter what would I use?
I think I am going to order a different version and manufacture. I have already toasted two of these at $29 each LOL
Mike
Back to the drawing board :-(
Also when I connect power from the battery there is a pretty big spark.
If I was to put some filters on the input of the dc to dc converter what would I use?
I think I am going to order a different version and manufacture. I have already toasted two of these at $29 each LOL
Mike
A diagram of your set up would be most helpful. Seems to me there's a fault or mismatch somewhere.
The only thing that would really cause that was if the polarity was reversed on the converter input.
Here is a diagram of my system. Not the most sophisticated drawing but you get the idea 🙂
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
That looks right to me.
I seriously doubt this is a question of improved filtering from a battery supply. IMHO you need to remove all the extraneous connections and get the proper 48V and ±12V DC supplies to the amp board. Then add connections one by one until everything is together.
At idle there should only be about a 1 watt draw from the converter. To me the problem suggests something with the connections or something on the amp board.
I seriously doubt this is a question of improved filtering from a battery supply. IMHO you need to remove all the extraneous connections and get the proper 48V and ±12V DC supplies to the amp board. Then add connections one by one until everything is together.
At idle there should only be about a 1 watt draw from the converter. To me the problem suggests something with the connections or something on the amp board.
I thought the same thing and just hooked up the amp to power and it fried the dc to dc. Maybe I got some bad converters or maybe when I am soldering the connections I am getting it too hot.
I ordered a different kind of converter so we will see.
MP
I ordered a different kind of converter so we will see.
MP
OK I think I may have figured out a problem.
The DC to DC says -Vin and +Vin. does that mean it is looking for a -48v and not just a ground or common?
My 48v power source is a Battery, I dont think the ground is a -48v but I could be wrong.
IcePower says the -48v input is common ground on the amp board. So basically it is connecting the - on the input and the common on the output of the DC to DC converter together.
Could this be my problem? and if so what do I do?
Mike
The DC to DC says -Vin and +Vin. does that mean it is looking for a -48v and not just a ground or common?
My 48v power source is a Battery, I dont think the ground is a -48v but I could be wrong.
IcePower says the -48v input is common ground on the amp board. So basically it is connecting the - on the input and the common on the output of the DC to DC converter together.
Could this be my problem? and if so what do I do?
Mike
Have you connected just the battery to the inputs of the murata converter and measured the output voltage?
If so, did the voltages measure correctly (I.E., +12 from hot to ground, -12 from neg to ground and +24 across neg to hot?)
Or are you trying to do everything all at once?
If so, did the voltages measure correctly (I.E., +12 from hot to ground, -12 from neg to ground and +24 across neg to hot?)
Or are you trying to do everything all at once?
Yes I did and they measured good.
I just bought another manufacture and hooked it up and it worked. I guess the Murata can not have its input ground and the output common connected which is what the Icepower does on the board.
So I finally figured it out and its perfect!!
Thanks for all the help.
Mike
Aha! Bummer it took a few fried components to determine that...
I'm very glad to hear that you found a solution! Congrats!
Thanks!!
I guess you always have to fry some stuff to make the Electrical gods happy LOL
The system sounds amazing.
this is hooked up to a JBL EON 305 with the amp and battery pack mounted to the back of the speaker.
Super crazy loud, portable, waterproof, and battery powered, PA system.
It will run for about 25 hours at full blast with Dub step music at 108db. Or about 150 hours of normal music at 98 db on a charge.
Oh yes!!
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