percyaudio.com.
I also have some old style, small Alps with black ABS housing (seen recently from some other US source really cheap). I suspect they are carbon, maybe, and the sound is substantially different from Nobles. Noble is very clean and accurate sounding (if not a bit bright), while the small Alps are more romanting with more pronounced midrange.
I also have some old style, small Alps with black ABS housing (seen recently from some other US source really cheap). I suspect they are carbon, maybe, and the sound is substantially different from Nobles. Noble is very clean and accurate sounding (if not a bit bright), while the small Alps are more romanting with more pronounced midrange.
Yea i have i think about 6 50k alps pots which i havent used. I figure i will just make a normal volume control instead of the shunted type on the next amp.
ron
unless i can figure out a way for the stepper/attenuator config.
ron
unless i can figure out a way for the stepper/attenuator config.
Wow 🙂
Congratulations Peter. Terrific work. You're proving that wood enclosure can be really pretty for an amplifier.
Wood gives a certain impression of warmth not found in aluminium and/or other metals...
Continue the good work !
Congratulations Peter. Terrific work. You're proving that wood enclosure can be really pretty for an amplifier.
Wood gives a certain impression of warmth not found in aluminium and/or other metals...
Continue the good work !
Nice, Peter.
I think the wood design could go a lot longer than the various metal jobs without the owner tiring of it. Something about a nicely crafted wood object.
Elegant heat transfer integration, too. That is certainly the hurdle with wood.
I am still thinking about a next-generation of my earlier headphone amp housing and designing a larger, open-bottomed, oak enclosure with a strip-shaped "heat port" running along the top of the back.
I like the maple better than the oak, I think.
You sure you are an engineer-type? You are a little too visually creative to be very convincing...
Nice, nice, nice,
GnD
I think the wood design could go a lot longer than the various metal jobs without the owner tiring of it. Something about a nicely crafted wood object.
Elegant heat transfer integration, too. That is certainly the hurdle with wood.
I am still thinking about a next-generation of my earlier headphone amp housing and designing a larger, open-bottomed, oak enclosure with a strip-shaped "heat port" running along the top of the back.
I like the maple better than the oak, I think.
You sure you are an engineer-type? You are a little too visually creative to be very convincing...
Nice, nice, nice,
GnD
Nice one Peter,
Just have one thing to say about the otherwise very beautiful piece of work. It may be difficult for the power cord not to get too close to the speaker cable or interconnect with this power entry layout. May be this is a mute point anyway.
Congrats
Chris
Just have one thing to say about the otherwise very beautiful piece of work. It may be difficult for the power cord not to get too close to the speaker cable or interconnect with this power entry layout. May be this is a mute point anyway.
Congrats
Chris
The access is convenient, OTOH, and it's easy to put it on and off😉chris ma said:
Also the location is dectited by transformer placement. I could go the other way (transformer on the bottom), but the looks would suffer; lower profile frame on top and volume at the upper side wouldn't look good.
That job was a custom order. A local forum member approached me with a specific request and price target. I decided to use BG caps, instead of expensive binding posts. After reading the thread, where people claim that Radio Shack 24ga wire sounds the same as $1,500 cables with a GC, I don't think Cardas posts would make that much of a difference😉fcel said:
GrahamnDodder said:
I was trained to be an engineer, never felt like one though. I prefer to be creative, rather than knowledgable😉
I really like it Peter. Another option would be to have one of the boxes (the upper, with a wood top?) be aluminum, the other wood. Then with alu knobs. This is an attractive and original design I would say, and the design decisions all appear to be the logical outcome. That's the trick- make it look like this is the only reasonable way to make the thing. (even though you probably tried 20 designs!)
I think it needs a good plaque more than the first design. Would look great inset into the wood.
I'm glad you decided not to put the caps in the tubes- they really make the most sense completely open for best cooling.
And you then get that super clean exterior-well done!
I think copper tubes may well become the standard chip amp
approach- very obtainable and not too expensive.
I think it needs a good plaque more than the first design. Would look great inset into the wood.
I'm glad you decided not to put the caps in the tubes- they really make the most sense completely open for best cooling.
And you then get that super clean exterior-well done!
I think copper tubes may well become the standard chip amp
approach- very obtainable and not too expensive.
Nice work, Peter, but the cooling is about surface and the tubes have a small surface. It don't doubt that this partiualr amp needs more cooling but this idea needs more "polishing" in order to be effective.
Nice wood work!
Nice wood work!
nice!
for the best cooling with this design, you could get some custom extruded aluminium, 1" pipes, but with fins runing up the inside.
for the best cooling with this design, you could get some custom extruded aluminium, 1" pipes, but with fins runing up the inside.
moamps said:
One can always use it upside down😉
peranders said:
Somebody on Chip Amp forum run through math and calculated that this assembly can dissipate 95(total) watts, with a doubt that this is a bit of an overkill😉
I totally adore that design...
Does it get real warm to touch??
I've been thinking about making something like that for a while.
Does it get real warm to touch??
I've been thinking about making something like that for a while.
I pushed it a bit yesterday, but it was only warm.
The interesting thing about this structure is somewhat different sonic signature comparing to my all aluminum amps. While the latter seem to be more bright and airy, this one (at least initially) seems to be more laid back, with no trace of brightness and perceivably more body.
The interesting thing about this structure is somewhat different sonic signature comparing to my all aluminum amps. While the latter seem to be more bright and airy, this one (at least initially) seems to be more laid back, with no trace of brightness and perceivably more body.
Surface Area
only accounts for < 15% efficency in a convection cooling system.The advantage is moving air (like augmented cooling with a fan).The greatest mod to peters design which would provide more efficency is greater heat transfer (yea surface area) between the plate and the tube as well as a vortex flow.
ron
only accounts for < 15% efficency in a convection cooling system.The advantage is moving air (like augmented cooling with a fan).The greatest mod to peters design which would provide more efficency is greater heat transfer (yea surface area) between the plate and the tube as well as a vortex flow.
ron
Konnichiwa,
Well, I HATE (not) to say it, but you may wish to read my original comments on CFrasers Gainclone "Builder Data" Page... Look for "Thorstens Thoughts"....
http://home.ca.inter.net/~cfraser/Gainbuilder.htm
What I would suggest as Heatsink in such a design is actually a block of Bronze with several chimeys drilled out.
Keep the wood and C37 Lacquer it. And probably some Altman "Tubolator" Lacquer on the Chip and C37 on all Capacitors, plus wooden, C37 lacquered Capacitor Clamps for the (plastic stripped) PSU Cap's. Oh yes, also avoid any magnetic screws....
And then change the external Powerpack to 4 X 12V/7AH++ SLA Batteries, plus charger. Oh, and fit Autoformer TVC's as Volume controls.
Now THAT would likely be an Amplifier I'd just LOVE to test for an extended period for you.... 😉
Sayonara
Peter Daniel said:
Well, I HATE (not) to say it, but you may wish to read my original comments on CFrasers Gainclone "Builder Data" Page... Look for "Thorstens Thoughts"....
http://home.ca.inter.net/~cfraser/Gainbuilder.htm
What I would suggest as Heatsink in such a design is actually a block of Bronze with several chimeys drilled out.
Keep the wood and C37 Lacquer it. And probably some Altman "Tubolator" Lacquer on the Chip and C37 on all Capacitors, plus wooden, C37 lacquered Capacitor Clamps for the (plastic stripped) PSU Cap's. Oh yes, also avoid any magnetic screws....
And then change the external Powerpack to 4 X 12V/7AH++ SLA Batteries, plus charger. Oh, and fit Autoformer TVC's as Volume controls.
Now THAT would likely be an Amplifier I'd just LOVE to test for an extended period for you.... 😉
Sayonara
I think having the active box inder the power supply as shown is the best in that the PS clamps the active box to the table! You could implement the lacquer idea by using violin lacquer rather than C37. More reasonable price and would have to have some benefit if in fact the C37 has benefit...
The battery pack could be set up as an easy option. Make sure the upper and lower boxes can be easily separated (I believe that is the case now. Then have a battery box as an alternate to the power supply. Just unbolt and uplug one box and install the other. WOW!
Or better!!!:as an upgrade people could purchse later:
the power supply could be retained as the top unit for comparison and used to charge a battery pack box on the bottom of the stack. The amp can just be set onto the battery box. Any intellegent charging circuitry could be in the same box as the batteries. So there could be a natural upgrade, and the upgraded unit has three layers- The Marshall stack of stero amps! You could choose to use the power supply or the batterys with a switch on the battery box.
The amp looks great as it is, these are just offered as more possibilities. The tubes could have damping sleeves around the outsideof each. - Large diameter heatshrink tubing? layer of something glued on around them?
The battery pack could be set up as an easy option. Make sure the upper and lower boxes can be easily separated (I believe that is the case now. Then have a battery box as an alternate to the power supply. Just unbolt and uplug one box and install the other. WOW!
Or better!!!:as an upgrade people could purchse later:
the power supply could be retained as the top unit for comparison and used to charge a battery pack box on the bottom of the stack. The amp can just be set onto the battery box. Any intellegent charging circuitry could be in the same box as the batteries. So there could be a natural upgrade, and the upgraded unit has three layers- The Marshall stack of stero amps! You could choose to use the power supply or the batterys with a switch on the battery box.
The amp looks great as it is, these are just offered as more possibilities. The tubes could have damping sleeves around the outsideof each. - Large diameter heatshrink tubing? layer of something glued on around them?
Kuei Yang Wang said:
I was debating what to use for capacitor clamp. Maple and cedar were on my list. I tried in my monoblocks wooden blocks of that type as a foot at one end and also I tried that white stuff I'm using (teflon like, is it polycarbonate?) and definitely the white material sounded better. That's why I decided to continue using it here. I'll take seriously your other suggestions. This amp here is just a start of the new direction, an excersize in design concept, I would definitely improve it in the next one.
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