All the powersupply FETS were disfigured. Maybe I made a mistake and ordered wrong part. I installed IRFP064N. Maybe they were suppose to be IRFP064 or IRF064N
I found 1 of the 4 banks of FETS on the powersupply has 4v on the Gate and the other 18 have 2v.
With 4 banks, you would have either 16 or 20 FETs. having one bank off would leave 12 or 16.
This is often due to a bad PNP driver.
This is often due to a bad PNP driver.
I found a bad 2sa1023 and replaced it. Powersupply seems to be stable. I measured the voltage on the rectifiers with center leg pulled. One side of the amp has about ~192 volts and the opposite side of the amp has ~150. I installed the center legs back and powered through limiter but amp still goes into protection. I am going to pull the center legs of the rectifier again to see if I can see to try an isolate the rail voltage difference. Maybe a resistor out of tolerance I missed somewhere
Seems that the current limiter was causing the to going into protection. After powering the amp with current limiter, the voltage on the rectifiers for both sides of the amp were within 5 volts from each other. I reinstalled the center leg of the rectifiers and powered up the amp and it is not in protection mode now.
Hey Perry this amp came back due from the customer. They indicated after 15 minutes of hard playing it would go into protect. They also said the only way to get to come out protect was to decrease the gain setting and then it would play. The was not hot either. Do you if the tl494 has any control on the protection circuit? Only thing I can think of is the fan is not coming on or has a bad pot
My problem is I haven’t pulled the trigger on a 350amp powersupply and I currently only can feed it a constant 50amps of power 1000watt 2 ohm load for 30 minutes. But it had no problems at all and wasn’t even warm.
I cannot verify how t was wired but I do know he is using a rca converter to feed inputs.
I cannot verify how t was wired but I do know he is using a rca converter to feed inputs.
As a temporary solution, a cheap $60 battery from Walmart will give you plenty of current for short term testing. That said, you can generally find most faults with 50 amps.
Are you testing with music that's pushing the amp up to and into clipping regularly? Sometimes faults act differently to music than pure tones.
Have you tried pushing on various areas with a non-conductive probe to see if that tripped a fault?
Same with hot air?
Were the 'brown' wires grounded on the converter?
Was he using the converter long before the amp failed?
Are you testing with music that's pushing the amp up to and into clipping regularly? Sometimes faults act differently to music than pure tones.
Have you tried pushing on various areas with a non-conductive probe to see if that tripped a fault?
Same with hot air?
Were the 'brown' wires grounded on the converter?
Was he using the converter long before the amp failed?