(Complicated) Guitar Cab Tuning Question

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These types of drivers are also normally used with power amps that have high output impedance, this is obtained by either the output transformer in a valve amp, or mixed mode feedback in a solid state one.
If you model the driver in the recommended box with an eight Ohm series resistor, this is pretty much the frequency response it was designed for.
rcw.
 
These types of drivers are also normally used with power amps that have high output impedance, this is obtained by either the output transformer in a valve amp, or mixed mode feedback in a solid state one.
If you model the driver in the recommended box with an eight Ohm series resistor, this is pretty much the frequency response it was designed for.
rcw.

ok, so just pull both crossovers and leave the bare drivers? correct?
 
I am not sure of the exact set up you have, i.e., if it is a stereo pick up set up, or a two way set up.

some people use a two way with a guitar speaker on the top, if this is what you have then putting a capacitor in series with it will stop it getting over driven by the bass, an inductor on the bass driver is optional depending upon the overall tone you want.

If you have a stereo pick up set up then you don't need a crossover.
rcw.
 
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not really worried about power too much. people have said to pull the capacitor on the man o wars to open the bass up. you agree?

You are being a little evasive on the power amp info, why? Do you have an amp for this?
What is the value of the cap? The top drivers seem to be in a separate compartment from the lower bass drivers, yes? If so, lose the cap, run the upper drivers full range and knock a few holes through that divider, you will definitely increase bass production.
 
I am not sure of the exact set up you have, i.e., if it is a stereo pick up set up, or a two way set up.

some people use a two way with a guitar speaker on the top, if this is what you have then putting a capacitor in series with it will stop it getting over driven by the bass, an inductor on the bass driver is optional depending upon the overall tone you want.

If you have a stereo pick up set up then you don't need a crossover.
rcw.

First one you said. One input but the cab compartments are both crossed over at 330hz ie: top takes care of the higher 3 octaves of the guitar and the bottom (basslites) take care of the lower two octaves. I wanted a bi amped cab but by passive crssover means, not stereo cab. Clarity and extended low range were my goals
 
You are being a little evasive on the power amp info, why? Do you have an amp for this?
What is the value of the cap? The top drivers seem to be in a separate compartment from the lower bass drivers, yes? If so, lose the cap, run the upper drivers full range and knock a few holes through that divider, you will definitely increase bass production.

Oh I thought I told you, I own a Tapco Juice Amp 2500. it's a power amp. my friend came over and played his ibanez through it though when were were comparing cabs. right now though I'm using the tapco.
the cap is 30uF this one Parts-Express.com: Solen 30uF 400V Polypropylene Capacitor | pyle pro pyle polypropylene capacitor polypropylene lens DC caps cap.
how big of holes should I punch through the shelf? pictures are on my first post. it's a link to photobucket
 
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How are the drivers wired? Top 2 in series, bottom 2 in series then paralleled to give 8 ohms would be correct. If it is the others way (top 2 paralleled, bottom 2 paralleled and series together to give eight ohms) the cap would affect the bottom drivers as well as the top pair, likewise the inductor would limit high freq. response in the uppers as well as the lowers.
The amp has enough power but keep in mind that that is the rated max output before clipping and the drivers will not see much of it, except on transients.

Cut some good sized holes in the panel - enough to make the space common but maintain the strength of the panel as a brace.
 
How are the drivers wired? Top 2 in series, bottom 2 in series then paralleled to give 8 ohms would be correct. If it is the others way (top 2 paralleled, bottom 2 paralleled and series together to give eight ohms) the cap would affect the bottom drivers as well as the top pair, likewise the inductor would limit high freq. response in the uppers as well as the lowers.
The amp has enough power but keep in mind that that is the rated max output before clipping and the drivers will not see much of it, except on transients.

Cut some good sized holes in the panel - enough to make the space common but maintain the strength of the panel as a brace.

Ya they're Top 2 in series, bottom 2 in series then paralleled to give 8 ohm
the 575w is rms and I've pushed the amp to orange led with the cab, which I haven't done wig my pa system. I'll try switching the polarity first before cutting he holes
 
I don't get your math. It simply doesn't add up.
These are the numbers as I would figure em:

8 ohms in series with 8 ohms = 16 ohms.
16 ohms in parallel (no crossover) with 16 ohms = 8 ohms
16 ohms properly crossed with 16ohms, still nets you 16 ohms (not 8).

If the amp pushes 575W into 8 ohms, and you remove the crossover,
it will then push 575W. I don't know what you are pushing now into
16 or thereabouts with the crossover and cabs not quite tuned yet?
Where is this 550W figure coming from?
 
I don't get your math. It simply doesn't add up.
These are the numbers as I would figure em:

8 ohms in series with 8 ohms = 16 ohms.
16 ohms in parallel (no crossover) with 16 ohms = 8 ohms
16 ohms properly crossed with 16ohms, still nets you 16 ohms (not 8).

If the amp pushes 575W into 8 ohms, and you remove the crossover,
it will then push 575W. I don't know what you are pushing now into
16 or thereabouts with the crossover and cabs not quite tuned yet?
Where is this 550W figure coming from?

the cab can 'handle' more power because the crossovers are eating up power before it reaches the speaker. let's say the xover takes away 25w of highs out of a full range 100w signal, 75w would reach the drivers. so i can pump 600w into the cab a lot will be soaked up by the crossovers
 
Thats not handle, thats waste. But whatever.... The 16 ohm maths stand.
You probably only pushing about 300W into 16 ohms, before other losses.

When you lose the crossover, that will change in favor your 8 ohm maths.
And your amp will run a lot hotter too I expect.
 
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Thats not handle, thats waste. But whatever.... The 16 ohm maths stand.

I know I know, turns into heat LOL. I used a 16 ohm capacitor in line before the power hits the drivers (16ohm)
then a 16 ohm inductor for the basslites in line before the drivers (16ohm)
so the top is 16 and the bottom is 16 and they are paralleled together to equal a total load of the cab of 8 ohms
 
Ok, here's a dumb idea.... Supposin you get rid that divider in the cabinet and
deliberately allow a bit of bass leak thru the xover into the MOW's. Not enough
to make em move out of XMAX, just enough to keep em from being moved by
the backwave from the woofers. Turn em into an active brick wall at those
frequencies. The tight suspension on those cones will only help.

Now you got the whole cabinet volume you can port for the woofers.
 
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So the top is 16 and the bottom is 16 and they are paralleled together to equal a total load of the cab of 8 ohms

Nope, 16.

A crossover is not "parallel" over the frequency domain.
High frequencys go one way to 16 ohms, Lows the other
to 16 ohms. Weirdest of all: splits the middle to 16 ohms!
Phase shifts monkey with the impedance sum. Go figure...
 
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the crossovers are only first order 6db slope so there isn't a ton of bass being filtered.

right now it looks like I'm gonna take out the crossovers and put holes in the shelf. sucks because I'm proud of my shelf :(

my family is sick and yelled at me for testing my cab so ill have to wait a bit, or when they're gone
 
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