Jamesemucc,
I found the following also helpful:
- Drilling the pilot holes for the screws. Use a right sized bit for this; you can try on a scrap piece of wood first to check your results and make the right choice.
- Without the driver in its position, running the screws in and then unscrewing them - this helps create a thread which makes inserting the screws easier later on with the driver in place.
- Create a rebate for the driver frame
- Chamfer the inside of the driver cut-out
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zman01,
Thanks for the tips, will do.
Also, If you do a double thickness front baffle/panel, would you make the inner layer's circle opening larger and only clamp the speaker to the outer layer (to allow the rear of the speaker to breathe), or would it be better to have the diameters the same, rounding off the whole thickness more...
Thanks for the tips, will do.
Also, If you do a double thickness front baffle/panel, would you make the inner layer's circle opening larger and only clamp the speaker to the outer layer (to allow the rear of the speaker to breathe), or would it be better to have the diameters the same, rounding off the whole thickness more...
Jamesemucc,
For a double thickness baffle I would be partial towards making the inner layer opening larger.
Do you have any concerns if there would be enough baffle material in place after the 10-11mm rebate needed for the driver frame? The Alpair 10P frame is fairly thick... I prefer to have 11-12 mm material to hold the driver in place; I would recommend using a ~25mm thick front baffle if possible. Since I usually construct speaker cabinets using 18mm material, I prefer to glue on a ~6mm thick piece of ply to the 18mm plywood to make a thicker front baffle. Sometimes I do not even go full length - I glue on a 6mm piece on the inside that is big enough to cover area where the driver cut out and mounting area.
The inner baffle that you are planning to do will increase the stiffness and strength of the cabinet and baffle overall.
For a double thickness baffle I would be partial towards making the inner layer opening larger.
Do you have any concerns if there would be enough baffle material in place after the 10-11mm rebate needed for the driver frame? The Alpair 10P frame is fairly thick... I prefer to have 11-12 mm material to hold the driver in place; I would recommend using a ~25mm thick front baffle if possible. Since I usually construct speaker cabinets using 18mm material, I prefer to glue on a ~6mm thick piece of ply to the 18mm plywood to make a thicker front baffle. Sometimes I do not even go full length - I glue on a 6mm piece on the inside that is big enough to cover area where the driver cut out and mounting area.
The inner baffle that you are planning to do will increase the stiffness and strength of the cabinet and baffle overall.
Jamesemucc,
Good that you have started to get some hours on the drivers.
Hope your temporary baffle is placed in such a way that there is no chance of the drivers falling over face first or even off the shelf? That would not be cool...
Good that you have started to get some hours on the drivers.
Hope your temporary baffle is placed in such a way that there is no chance of the drivers falling over face first or even off the shelf? That would not be cool...
How bad would edge diffraction sound compared to flush mount? I've normally flush-mounted my builds mainly because it just looks cool.
Although I've seen plenty of cases where in a 2-way, the tweeter was flush-mounted but the woofer was top-mounted, which I'm guessing is to time-align them. In that scenario, would the edge diffraction negatively affect the sound?
opwlei,
The Alpair 10P has a thick bezel compared to other drivers (including many woofers) , and as a wide-band driver it is expected to cover a broader frequency range; having the driver flush-mounted (as much as possible) would give better measured performance and possibly better subjective impressions.
The Alpair 10P has a thick bezel compared to other drivers (including many woofers) , and as a wide-band driver it is expected to cover a broader frequency range; having the driver flush-mounted (as much as possible) would give better measured performance and possibly better subjective impressions.
Hello DIYers,
I've been running the Pensil 10p for 1.5 years and like them very much. So much so that I want to build better boxes for them. This was my first experience in speaker building and made a few mistakes. Since I will be building new Pensil enclosures for the 10p, I was thinking of maybe trying a few tweaks.
I played with the amount of stuffing but haven't heard much of a difference. Does it need to be teased and loose? I filled about 2/3 of the box, is that OK?
Can someone explain to me what I should be listening for when adjusting the stuffing? Bass hasn't changed much regardless of the amount of poly.
I was even thinking of building the my next Pensil enclosure without the removable back panel since I can't hear a difference when altering the stuffing.
I also read something about a filter. How would I make that and is it worth it?
I've been running the Pensil 10p for 1.5 years and like them very much. So much so that I want to build better boxes for them. This was my first experience in speaker building and made a few mistakes. Since I will be building new Pensil enclosures for the 10p, I was thinking of maybe trying a few tweaks.
I played with the amount of stuffing but haven't heard much of a difference. Does it need to be teased and loose? I filled about 2/3 of the box, is that OK?
Can someone explain to me what I should be listening for when adjusting the stuffing? Bass hasn't changed much regardless of the amount of poly.
I was even thinking of building the my next Pensil enclosure without the removable back panel since I can't hear a difference when altering the stuffing.
I also read something about a filter. How would I make that and is it worth it?
If you build the holy brace, how does the teased out stuffing mount, i.e. is it loosely inter-twined throughout the holes? Packed (loosely) into one area more than the other? Top/Bottom?
It matters not.
On boxes without volume fill, like the miniOnken, the holey brace is an idel spot to put some low desity poly batting over the holes to reduce any side-to-side waves.
dave
On boxes without volume fill, like the miniOnken, the holey brace is an idel spot to put some low desity poly batting over the holes to reduce any side-to-side waves.
dave
Ok, so I teased it properly, as per Dave's pictures, and then stuffed 2/3 of the enclosure with it. So why did I not hear a difference when I doubled and then halved the stuffing? The bass did not change with either amounts. Should I have listened for something else? ie imaging, soundstage etc