Hello Members,
I finally completed my Pensil 10p enclosures and have about 350 hours in them. Since this was my first build and my limited access to tools, I decided to used 4 window braces instead of the one suggested in the plans.I also went with a rear port instead of the front.
For the finish, I used walnut veneer for the sides, back and top and I used a flexible slate sheet for the front.I am really happy with the result and turned out better than I had expected.
I lined the top third,(sides,top and back) of the enclosure with felt and the rest with polyfill.
I like the sound so far but haven't started tweaking yet since I would like to wait until full break in(500 hours) before tweaking.
I am open to all tweaking suggestions from members who have experience with this enclosure and driver.
I finally completed my Pensil 10p enclosures and have about 350 hours in them. Since this was my first build and my limited access to tools, I decided to used 4 window braces instead of the one suggested in the plans.I also went with a rear port instead of the front.
For the finish, I used walnut veneer for the sides, back and top and I used a flexible slate sheet for the front.I am really happy with the result and turned out better than I had expected.
I lined the top third,(sides,top and back) of the enclosure with felt and the rest with polyfill.
I like the sound so far but haven't started tweaking yet since I would like to wait until full break in(500 hours) before tweaking.
I am open to all tweaking suggestions from members who have experience with this enclosure and driver.
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bianchi,
Congratulations on your Pensil 10P build. You're saying it's your first build, but look like you nailed it! 🙂
The speakers look pretty close to the wall - you can bring them in front and experiment with the toe in. A member posted a few weeks back stating that the liked the Alpair 10P more after applying a simple filter - if I find that thread will share.
In the meantime you can experiment with the placement and toe-in, and if required with the amount of poly-fill (if not, leave it alone 🙂.
p.s. Found the link to the post I mentioned above regarding using a filter:
https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/238125-pensils-alpair-10-3-alpair-10p-24.html#post6233390
Congratulations on your Pensil 10P build. You're saying it's your first build, but look like you nailed it! 🙂
The speakers look pretty close to the wall - you can bring them in front and experiment with the toe in. A member posted a few weeks back stating that the liked the Alpair 10P more after applying a simple filter - if I find that thread will share.
In the meantime you can experiment with the placement and toe-in, and if required with the amount of poly-fill (if not, leave it alone 🙂.
p.s. Found the link to the post I mentioned above regarding using a filter:
https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/238125-pensils-alpair-10-3-alpair-10p-24.html#post6233390
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Nice job. The braces oriented the wrong way will slightly impinge the bass, you may find less damping needed than if done as specified. They also do not brace the enclosure as well.
How are you likeing them? That is the important thing.
dave
How are you likeing them? That is the important thing.
dave
I lined the top third,(sides,top and back) of the enclosure with felt and the rest with polyfill.
Kinda looks like the bottom third from your pics. Your polyfil looks a little too dense as well.
Nice work on the cabs BTW.🙂
jeff
Beautiful speakers and you gotta love the 10p! How do they sound with the Marantz?
You've got a good eye, that is a Marantz 1070 and they sound good but this isn't my main set-up.They are hooked up to the Marantz until fully broken in.I've got Apple music and can play them for hours. My main system is strictly vinyl fed through a Finale tube amp.
Kinda looks like the bottom third from your pics. Your polyfil looks a little too dense as well.
Nice work on the cabs BTW.🙂
jeff
I've removed a bit of polyfill since the pictures were taken but haven't noticed much of a difference yet.I will try removing more after the 500hr breakin period.
Nice job. The braces oriented the wrong way will slightly impinge the bass, you may find less damping needed than if done as specified. They also do not brace the enclosure as well.
How are you likeing them? That is the important thing.
dave
You are probably right about the bracing orienation but like I said in the orignal post, I'm limited by the tools that I have. The holey brace would have been quit a challenge..maybe for a second build.
From the pics it looks like you have built the box with good quality ply, and have braced them well - so should not be a problem; don't fret too much about the bracing.
Good work. If they're eventually going into a different system, I'd hang fire making any fine-tuning adjustments until they're in that, or chances are you'll need to do it all over again. Since most rooms / systems aren't absolutely symmetrical either, don't be afraid of making individual changes to each channel to balance things.
Scottmoose, that was intention, to break them in and fine tune them in my main set-up.
I forget to mention in my description that I used 3/4 inch birch ply for the enclosure and the bracing.
I forget to mention in my description that I used 3/4 inch birch ply for the enclosure and the bracing.
Indeed wait until in final system before tweeking if you'd like. I found that in the past I put too much polyfill in my Pensils and didn't fluss/tease enough.
Well after my A7 Pensils were broken in, I wanted a bit more bass and took all polyfill out, took a while teasing about 3/4 of it and then dropped pieces of fully teased poly, like snowflakes, into the cabs. The whole sound improved in addition to better defined bass.
Well after my A7 Pensils were broken in, I wanted a bit more bass and took all polyfill out, took a while teasing about 3/4 of it and then dropped pieces of fully teased poly, like snowflakes, into the cabs. The whole sound improved in addition to better defined bass.
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fyi - I found, with the A10.3 Pencil, that stuffing was a tradeoff between bass and imaging when I was tweaking it.
I would like your opinion on the effects of the felt that I have put on the walls of the enclosure's back, side and top of the driver.Have I over done it? Should I fine tune by adjusting the amount of felt?
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Joined 2009
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The felt around the driver cavity is important in reducing reflected sound back out through the cone - I never played around with it once it had been fixed in place, so can't comment on the impact of adjusting it.
Here,
Reaching out for some help. I have a little less than 500 hours on the Pensil 10p and enjoy them but I would like to get rid of sibilence. Can anyone recommend how I can do this? I understand that some times it can be the recording.
The only adjustment I made so far is the amount of stuffing which is less than what was initially recommended in the plans.
Thanks
Reaching out for some help. I have a little less than 500 hours on the Pensil 10p and enjoy them but I would like to get rid of sibilence. Can anyone recommend how I can do this? I understand that some times it can be the recording.
The only adjustment I made so far is the amount of stuffing which is less than what was initially recommended in the plans.
Thanks
Reaching out for some help.I have a little less than 500 hours on the Pensil 10p and enjoy them but I would like to get rid of sibilence. Can anyone recommend how I can do this? I understand that some times it can be the recording.
Don't know how you're going to get rid of sibilence that's present in a recording. I realize that some people are more sensitive to this than others.
It's also possible that certain amplifiers can have more pronounced sibilence. What are you using for an amp?
jeff
I just purchased a pair of the Alpair 10 P speakers for a project. Can anyone who has used them confirm that the baskets are all plastic... I would like to know if the local supplier in Australia is selling the real deal... ( They look well made)
James
James
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