I have been cleaning up the scrap pile and have salvaged a few power supples and ballasts from some junk projectors. I recently bought an Osram Powerball 150w hid. I crushed the jacket and removed the lamp and am retrofitting it into a Toshiba reflector.
I have looked and I cant find a ballast this small that is cheap.
My problem comes with as how to power this. I have a 165W UHE AC ballast. The ballast is very very well made and its smaller than a 1$ bill. I am able to get the lamp powered on with all the old projector guts hooked up fans and everything required. I am working on trying to eliminate all that junk and just keep the power supply and ballast. This thing is really really blinding bright coming out of the reflector. I am not worried about overdriving the lamp by 15w. The lamp is rated 12000-20000 hours. It will be a perfect retrofit. 4200k 90CRI
From playing with the control wires I am able to get the ballast to start the ignitor but it will never come on. I am wondering if theres a way to bypass the control circuit.
I have looked and I cant find a ballast this small that is cheap.
My problem comes with as how to power this. I have a 165W UHE AC ballast. The ballast is very very well made and its smaller than a 1$ bill. I am able to get the lamp powered on with all the old projector guts hooked up fans and everything required. I am working on trying to eliminate all that junk and just keep the power supply and ballast. This thing is really really blinding bright coming out of the reflector. I am not worried about overdriving the lamp by 15w. The lamp is rated 12000-20000 hours. It will be a perfect retrofit. 4200k 90CRI
From playing with the control wires I am able to get the ballast to start the ignitor but it will never come on. I am wondering if theres a way to bypass the control circuit.
YWH you never cease to amaze me. GREAT WORK!!!This ballast has 4 wires going to it. I assume they are lamp enable lamp lit ground and economy mode. I will try to short the lamp enable and lamp lit and see what happens.
Do I short the optocouplers or do I connect one to another?
Do I short the optocouplers or do I connect one to another?
Ok i will try this soon as I get home and post results. If it powers on I will add a switch to control on/off. Thank you
Ok I soldered wires to them to test shorting them. The ballast still only does the ignition and does not stay on. What else can I try? I did hook it back up to the main board and it powered right on. I am missing something...
I found the problem the power supply was only putting out 165v until powered on. Then it gives the full 360V. I am going to try to reverse engineer the power supply and make my own.
I dont really have 220 available around the house by inspecting the power supply I can see this setup for 120V.
I measure after the diode bridge and I get 165V. How is this boosted to the 350? Do they use another 1/2 bridge?
I measure after the diode bridge and I get 165V. How is this boosted to the 350? Do they use another 1/2 bridge?
After following the circuit more I see that the 165v is fed into a high current high speed transistor and another diode. The transistor seems to be controlled by a switching circuit. This seems a little complex for diy.
Well I took this outside in the garage and did some testing off the 220V. The 150w osram powerball gets blinding bright out of the stock reflector.
I think the arc is too big to be focused properly. Its odd I placed a white object about 1 inch from the reflector and it was blinding bright. I think the LCD projectors still need a point source when I tested in a projector it was very dim compared to an auto hid with a much smaller arc gap. I was assuming that these projectors just needed the light area flooded and the lenses took care of the rest.
I think the arc is too big to be focused properly. Its odd I placed a white object about 1 inch from the reflector and it was blinding bright. I think the LCD projectors still need a point source when I tested in a projector it was very dim compared to an auto hid with a much smaller arc gap. I was assuming that these projectors just needed the light area flooded and the lenses took care of the rest.
Hello,
I need to use the ballast from my old IBM ilc200(lp530 projector's clone) without the rest of this projector.
So, I want to extract the IBM's ballast and use it with a diypro.us bulb for a other application.
I think it's possible, but I don't know which opto to bypass... 😕
Can you help me please ?
(sorry for my english 😱 )
Sebka33, from France.
I need to use the ballast from my old IBM ilc200(lp530 projector's clone) without the rest of this projector.
So, I want to extract the IBM's ballast and use it with a diypro.us bulb for a other application.
I think it's possible, but I don't know which opto to bypass... 😕
Can you help me please ?
(sorry for my english 😱 )
Sebka33, from France.
how did u guys bypass the switch to turn onthe ballast independently? im currently in the same pickle but need to test a used ballast to see if it works, btw, how much of a difference did u see before and after the focused point? i too thought you only needed to flood the lens with light
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