Inspired by Jeff Bagbys work on the Kairos and Paul Carmodys Tarkus.
Last month I bought an empty box and couple of old school Sansui speakers.
One set of the Sansui use a 140mm midwoofer and a 20mm tweeter and are an OK little speaker
The bigger box uses a 155mm and a 25mm tweeter; the bigger box is actually a pretty good speaker; but both use the same generic crossover with the only difference being the padding on the tweeters.
The woofer box suits a pair of 10" drivers and I've settled on a quad of the affordable Dayton drivers discussed in this thread
I think I'd like to use the Bagby crossover design as my inspiration but I can't really justify to the Boss the cost of a 150uF film capacitor at this time but given the spec of the cheap Dayton woofers I can't see them being used above 200 either.
Both the Sansui are a nominal 8R and at 200Hz are both probably at the DCR of 5.6 Ohms
So do I wait until I can afford $400- in parts or fudge it with electrolytics
200Hz is well below baffle step but I don't think that matters here and yes these could be Bi-Amped but passive can have the advantage of being able to be gifted away or sold at need
I don't have enough film caps in the stash to make up a 150uF bundle twice and I need to get 4 new film caps in 3.3uF to mod the Sansui XO as well
What is my best value supplier for film caps here at the moment if I don't use SpeakerBug??
Last month I bought an empty box and couple of old school Sansui speakers.
One set of the Sansui use a 140mm midwoofer and a 20mm tweeter and are an OK little speaker
The bigger box uses a 155mm and a 25mm tweeter; the bigger box is actually a pretty good speaker; but both use the same generic crossover with the only difference being the padding on the tweeters.
The woofer box suits a pair of 10" drivers and I've settled on a quad of the affordable Dayton drivers discussed in this thread
I think I'd like to use the Bagby crossover design as my inspiration but I can't really justify to the Boss the cost of a 150uF film capacitor at this time but given the spec of the cheap Dayton woofers I can't see them being used above 200 either.
Both the Sansui are a nominal 8R and at 200Hz are both probably at the DCR of 5.6 Ohms
So do I wait until I can afford $400- in parts or fudge it with electrolytics
200Hz is well below baffle step but I don't think that matters here and yes these could be Bi-Amped but passive can have the advantage of being able to be gifted away or sold at need
I don't have enough film caps in the stash to make up a 150uF bundle twice and I need to get 4 new film caps in 3.3uF to mod the Sansui XO as well
What is my best value supplier for film caps here at the moment if I don't use SpeakerBug??
Attachments
I've always enjoyed the process of modifying speakers more than building from scratch, so I now have two projects on the go. One to use the Woofer box in the above picture to use with the bigger Sansui box and a second project using the smaller Sansui box and the RadioShack Nova8 box I got a while back for $50-.
Rather than try and fit better midrange and tweeters to the Nova box I can just block off the holes and use a cheap version of the "Universal XO" between them.
I'll not use high price parts for the smaller box, near enough good enough for the first trial so a trip to the local Jaycar in the next couple of days.
Taking the drivers from the small box and doing a tap test I get a "Twang" rather than a dead "Tock" so a few scraps of something will get glued into the boxes and all the usual additions of fibrefill etc
Rather than try and fit better midrange and tweeters to the Nova box I can just block off the holes and use a cheap version of the "Universal XO" between them.
I'll not use high price parts for the smaller box, near enough good enough for the first trial so a trip to the local Jaycar in the next couple of days.
Taking the drivers from the small box and doing a tap test I get a "Twang" rather than a dead "Tock" so a few scraps of something will get glued into the boxes and all the usual additions of fibrefill etc
So, do I understand you correctly in interpreting that you'd like to use a design with a woofer and crossover from one "model", and use it with the other one's tweeter? Or are you trying to use two different existing speaker sets with each different woofers in the same cabinet and airspace? Or still different, two different pairs of speakers with different drivers, stuffed together into a single box per side, dropping one of the two tweeters that results from the mashup/combo?
I'll be honest, I'm having a hard time reading your post. Take a minute to split the text up into sections of things relevant to each other, if you can?
I'll be honest, I'm having a hard time reading your post. Take a minute to split the text up into sections of things relevant to each other, if you can?
Jeff Bagbys "Universal Crossover" Used to add a woofer module to the Kairos or Continuum 2-Way speakers.
So not a stereo pair of each 2-way as there is only one of each and each will sit on a woofer box as mono speakers TM + W. How many boxes in total; 4, 6, 8?
I should have made that clear. Definitely stereo and why I need 4 new woofers for the empty bass boxes.
So making up two sets in total which comes to 4 boxes.
So all I need to do are the two sets of crossovers in thin boxes that sit on to of the lower box.
I'll bodge up one set using cheaper components for the small tops and because the bigger top box has much better drivers I'll try and use better components in that set
So making up two sets in total which comes to 4 boxes.
So all I need to do are the two sets of crossovers in thin boxes that sit on to of the lower box.
I'll bodge up one set using cheaper components for the small tops and because the bigger top box has much better drivers I'll try and use better components in that set
Here are the pix of the smaller Sansui boxes stripped out and ready for modification.
Now normally I have a shelf loaded with all the round cutouts from previous builds, but a while ago I went and cleaned up and chucked all of them in the bin. Stupid of me because a couple of the smaller bits would have worked well on the sides here, Baffle board is 18mm thick but the sides are only 12mm
I've been using a pair of these for my computer speakers for many years
Now normally I have a shelf loaded with all the round cutouts from previous builds, but a while ago I went and cleaned up and chucked all of them in the bin. Stupid of me because a couple of the smaller bits would have worked well on the sides here, Baffle board is 18mm thick but the sides are only 12mm
I've been using a pair of these for my computer speakers for many years
Attachments
I just took delivery of a quad of cheap 10" woofers and put them into the box I bought last month.
https://www.theloudspeakerkit.com/dayton-audio-sd270a-88-10-dvc-subwoofer
Wired in series and then in parallel for an nominal 8R load.
Box was cheap enough and needed no work apart from adding a bit more fibreglass. Bi-amping using my party system while I check them out.
The Sansui on top are yet to be modified but as a combination they sound OK and that probably won't change when I use the passive XO between them
Sansui tops have a nominal 6" midbass and they did OK bass as they came from the factory but two tens beat a single 6 every day of the week where bass is concerned
https://www.theloudspeakerkit.com/dayton-audio-sd270a-88-10-dvc-subwoofer
Wired in series and then in parallel for an nominal 8R load.
Box was cheap enough and needed no work apart from adding a bit more fibreglass. Bi-amping using my party system while I check them out.
The Sansui on top are yet to be modified but as a combination they sound OK and that probably won't change when I use the passive XO between them
Sansui tops have a nominal 6" midbass and they did OK bass as they came from the factory but two tens beat a single 6 every day of the week where bass is concerned
Attachments
Yesterday I spent a pleasant couple of hours working outside while the drivers were broken in.
MOS Chill-out albums contain enough bass to work these boxes plenty hard, especially when you boost25hz by 6dB
I will get around to making the Universal XO as described by Mr Jeff Bagby but I do have a question about this type of asymmetrical XO.
Why cut the woofer and not use a second order on the midrange to ensure greater clarity of midrange reproduction?
I often use asymmetric crossovers as a cost effectiveness measure; although often I use a conjugate [ Zobel] on the woofer, small capacitors and resistors being much cheaper than inductors etc.
MOS Chill-out albums contain enough bass to work these boxes plenty hard, especially when you boost25hz by 6dB
I will get around to making the Universal XO as described by Mr Jeff Bagby but I do have a question about this type of asymmetrical XO.
Why cut the woofer and not use a second order on the midrange to ensure greater clarity of midrange reproduction?
I often use asymmetric crossovers as a cost effectiveness measure; although often I use a conjugate [ Zobel] on the woofer, small capacitors and resistors being much cheaper than inductors etc.