CMV1515 working with OHP (lots of pics)

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ohh..geeze, i need to get some sleep, i've been posting all night.

Good night all.. hope this thread answers some questions for the noobies...

My next project, i'm redoing my frame for the LCD and cutting/splitting another fresnel (my spare 🙂). Maybe even a proper screen.. More later.

And, remember... Don't forget Mister Pointy.
 

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Brillaint pictures, i want those games!!! 😱
great project, i guess i know what it's like to rush at things and crack them, that what always do. at least with some things.

i think that just using a normal fresnel where the ohp one normally is should give amazing details and light convergence... just like using the lcd as a transparency. have you tried? that is what i have it's great.

try white pvc shower curtain to hang over the dirty wall dude it's probably really reflective...

good one man!
 
WOW !!!!

:bigeyes: :bigeyes: :bigeyes: i also want to build this !!
but now i have (some) questions...

1. where did you get the CMV1515 ?? do you have any details on this display 😕 ?

2. which fresnel did you use ? what about the fresnel in the OHP - is it useful 😕 ?

3. what exactly did you use the polycarbonate for 😕 ?

4. Could you please tell me how much you paid for all the parts 😕 ?

thanks in advance, sorry for my english
and nice greetings from austria, central europe 😀
 
Brainchild,
Your original excellent pics from your 1515 setup was what convinced me to jump in.. 🙂

VvvvvV,
i dont have a shower curtain to test with though i have some results with a plain old bedsheet i post later 🙂

Video Freak said:
Hey looie are those pics of the lcd or screen? can you take some pics of your setup lights on etc and of the projected surface with something in the pic to be size representative? thanks and great job.😀

all of the pics are of the screen, not much point i can see of showing pics of the LCD.

hmmm... here is a pic of my dirty wall 🙂 i accidently left my camera flash on when i was trying to take pics of my windows desktop. those are cdrom covers at the bottom of the pic for size comparisions. actually, you can see same stuff at the bottom in the my second pic of desktop in an earlier post.

i just measured it, its about 2 meters by 1.5 meters.
 

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I still have my original OHP fresnel (just removed and stored away) and brought 2 extra from http://www.3dlens.com I figured that might need it because i might screw one up. (lucky, I did!!)

#OHP310 $ 29.00 USD

Quantity Unit Price 1~ 4 @US$29.00

310mm x 310mm (12.2"x12.2")
Item: #OHP310
Thickness: 4mm
Weight: 460 grams
Material: optical acrylic
Groove pitch: 0.5mm
Focal length: 132mm (f1:330mm f2:220mm)

They are in Taiwan, it took only a few days to ship to Australia and they were very responsive to emails. unfortunately i forgot to ask them if they ship with the lens pre-split. I guess they manufacture the things, they have all sorts of interesting stuff on thier site. Though it might be better to find a suppiler closer to you.

This is a cross section of my setup.
 

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VvvvvV,

yes.. actually, i did all sorts of tests with the lens configuration and this was the best for me. i was following that other thread with the debate about split lenses. i would recommend testing different configs to everyone as this seems to be more of an art form than exact science 🙂

my observations were..

1. when putting the LCD (raised about 20mm above the OHP stage because of the PCB) without removing original OHP fresnel. the LCD got hot because all the light was focused on it and only about 3/4 of the LCD was lit.

2. putting the fresnel unsplit directly behind the LCD was awkward for my particular setup. but some rough testing showed that it still heated up the LCD and i still had some of the edges of the LCD unlit.

3. After I removed the OHP fresnel and set it up as above. I immediately got full screen and the LCD was not as hot. There is a bit more blurring towards the edges but to so much that it was annoying. The picture was brighter too. However, you could see some rings from the fresnel. after i put a 10mm between the top fresnel and LCD, the rings where gone but it will reduce your brightness level somewhat. i ended up just using clothes pegs to make the distance. Also, the color temperature adjustment on the OHP just happens to allow me to get the right focal length on the bottom fresnel. (all it does is move the lamp up and down)
 

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cost?

hmmm.. this is how much i've spent in Australian dollars so far.

1. 400w halogen OHP from e-bay. $165AUD
2. brand new CMV1515 $495AUD
3. 2 x 12" fresnel lens $80USD(inc shipping)
4. clear polycarbonate sheet (from hardware store)1m x 1.5m $40AUD
5. wood.. free 🙂 left over from something I found.
6. 2 x 10cm PC fans, free from several old PCs I have.
7. AT power supply for fans, $5AUD from PC markets.

overall.. i have most of the features of a mid-range 1024x768 commerical projector at about less than half the price of an entry 800x600 commerical projector so i'm reasonably happy.. 😀
 
Hi Looie,

Good to see your setup is working so well.

I don't want to start the split vs non split fresnel debate in this thread, however I did find the image to be significantly sharper when both fresnels were placed before the LCD.

I know you had trouble trying to get the whole LCD Shown on your screen because of the PCB. Did you try flipping the LCD so that the light enters from what originally was the front of the screen?

My setup is as follows,

yellow = 6mm Low e glass (very transparent)
blue = fresnel
pink = LCD

this setup allows me to place the LCD very close to the top fresnel and I hardly lose any of my screen area. The amount of glass I have between the LCD and the light also stops the LCD from heating up.
 

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Blue_aerox,
The local hardware store had 2 kinds of clear plastic sheets, clear acrylic and clear polycarbonate. They are huge, about 1m x 1.5m and is used for plastic windows for houses. the polycarbonate was a little bit more expensive but also had a UV reflective coating on one side(according to the manufacturer's label) which the acrylic did not have. You'll need to check this first.

I'm not sure what Plexiglass is exactly.. my guess is that it is the same as acrylic?


cruser,
thanks.. i'm only following your good example 😀 i hope this will encourage more people here to do the same.


hassler,

yeah, the PCB was a pain but i found that this current setup works best for me.

i can seen pretty much the whole screen except a bit of the corners cut off but that doesnt bother me that much, my wall isnt big enough so that i could fit the whole screen on it anyway. 🙂

i think my setup a little different from yours as i'm using a projector setup, i.e. the OHP has a mirror at the top lens housing. i guess i could flip it but i will need another mirror.

what is 6mm Low e glass and where can you get it? the polycarbonate works very well but i wonder if glass will be better at stopping the heat.
 
Low e glass is made to absorb as little light as possible, much less than regular glass.

I got mine from Pilkington glass (they have stores nation wide), You can get 3mm sheets if you want, they only had 6mm in stock when I went to see them.
 
CMV 1515

Hi Looie, Brainchild

me and a few other guys from Germany bought that CMV 1515 display you were using for your projector. We saw your great results and now the 1515 is almost the reference for 15" projectors here, as these screens really rock.

Unfortunately no one has finished his projector here as we are just in the process of disassembling the displays.

Basicly we are very happy about the displays and with the results so far.

I were just wondering whether you solved the problem of that short ribbon cable in the right corner of the bottom of your tfts already and if might know a supplier, who sells lager ones.

Kind Regards
 
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