Hey,
I could have sworn I saw a thread about this already, but I couldn't find it, so I apologize in advance if this is redundant here.
I'm just wondering what products and/or processes to use to clean up an old ST-70 chassis. It's in pretty good shape, only a slight dusty texture that can probably mostly be removed.
It's quite yellowed. Does it have some sort of varnish finish on the steel? And of course I would like to leave the text intact.
Your advice please! 😎
..Todd
I could have sworn I saw a thread about this already, but I couldn't find it, so I apologize in advance if this is redundant here.
I'm just wondering what products and/or processes to use to clean up an old ST-70 chassis. It's in pretty good shape, only a slight dusty texture that can probably mostly be removed.
It's quite yellowed. Does it have some sort of varnish finish on the steel? And of course I would like to leave the text intact.
Your advice please! 😎
..Todd
IIRC,they were nickel plated. I've used Happich Simichrome polish on mine with good results. I found it at the local grocery(!?) store for about $5 a tube.
Happich Simichrome Polish - Metal Polish - Only $7.99!
Happich Simichrome Polish - Metal Polish - Only $7.99!
There are a couple of posts over at DIYtube's ST-70 forum that mention Blue Magic Polish available at your local Pep-Boys, Kragen, etc.
Thanks guys. I'll look around and see what's available here. I've never heard of or seen those products (or stores). Not surprising considering y'all are foreigners. 😛
..Todd
..Todd
Hey Todd, I've used Autosol Metal Polish for a long time. Don't think you'll find it at any of the big chain stores, may one of your local auto parts stores. I searched canadiantire and got nothing.
jeff
jeff
Believe it or not, for age grime that seems to affect/effect the old chassis metals, I actually used what all the stock manufactures use to recommend first before polishes, ammonia.
On a couple old vintage chassis, it really worked. Saved $$ too...
On a couple old vintage chassis, it really worked. Saved $$ too...
I cleaned mine with non-chlorine bathroom cleaner on a paper towel. Scrubbing bubbles formula, but I use the generic stuff from Family Dollar store. Ethylene glycol monbutyl ether. Got a pick and pushed the towel around all those resistors and capacitors on the PCB too. Made the color dots on those domino caps look good again. Let it dry for a couple of days before turning on as this stuff is water based. Make sure caps are below 25 VDC before touching metal or wiring.
Rockmore,
Yup, that makes sense. I've been reading that ammonia is good for cleaning nickel plating. Then some nickel specific polish afterwards.
indianajo,
I suspect it's the ammonia that is doing the work in your suggestion too.
I will be stripping this down and replacing all the sockets, switches, caps, ins and outs, etc. And I won't be keeping the driver board, so I won't bother cleaning it.
..Todd
Yup, that makes sense. I've been reading that ammonia is good for cleaning nickel plating. Then some nickel specific polish afterwards.
indianajo,
I suspect it's the ammonia that is doing the work in your suggestion too.
I will be stripping this down and replacing all the sockets, switches, caps, ins and outs, etc. And I won't be keeping the driver board, so I won't bother cleaning it.
..Todd
No ammonia or bleach in F.D bathroom non-chlorine cleaner. I had almost no metal corrosion, but it is amazing how much organic fuzz 1 man and 1 cat shed over 20 years. Cleaned it about 1975, not as well. ST70 didn't have any arcing yet, but it was just a race between the worn out power tubes and the organic coated sockets & pcb's which caved first. Tubes faded first, I'm saving up for 4 more 6CA7. My 7199 are still fine, the 4 paper caps are replaced with film, 4 plate resistors are metal film, why change is my philosophy.
Last edited:
- Status
- Not open for further replies.