Hi.
I have some mid-level DJ-mixers that are 10-20 years old. Some work fine and some have noise faders and pots.
Getting the correct replacement-parts are probably not cost-effective.
I've tried contact-cleaner, but read afterwards that its a really bad idea on pots because it may damage the tracks and also it removes any lubrication.
When the lubrication is removed on (cheap) pots and faders the "feel" becomes very bad. Furthermore I read that the missing lube will accelerate wear and tear of the tracks.
I know that some pots are beyond repair, but I would like to give it a try.
So whats your best ideas without resorting to specialty products that are not commonly available?
I saw one suggestion for:
Kind regards TroelsM
I have some mid-level DJ-mixers that are 10-20 years old. Some work fine and some have noise faders and pots.
Getting the correct replacement-parts are probably not cost-effective.
I've tried contact-cleaner, but read afterwards that its a really bad idea on pots because it may damage the tracks and also it removes any lubrication.
When the lubrication is removed on (cheap) pots and faders the "feel" becomes very bad. Furthermore I read that the missing lube will accelerate wear and tear of the tracks.
I know that some pots are beyond repair, but I would like to give it a try.
So whats your best ideas without resorting to specialty products that are not commonly available?
I saw one suggestion for:
- Disassemble if possible
- Cleaning with contact-cleaner
- Gently remove cleaner agent
- Lube with small amount of petroleum jelly, - also on tracks?
- Maybe use a very small amount of PTFE spray lube on the moving parts.
Kind regards TroelsM
Deoxit works well on pots BUT NOT SLIDERS. Fortunately they also make a fader lube. Works better.
On sliders, you can spray lube into them, but where it matters most is often the underside of the slot in the metal housing. I have some spring pusher tools with tiny hooks on the end, but you can also put a small L bend on the end of a stiff wire like a paper clip straightened, and use that to dab some light grease up under there, then slider the haldle up and down a few times to spread.
On sliders, you can spray lube into them, but where it matters most is often the underside of the slot in the metal housing. I have some spring pusher tools with tiny hooks on the end, but you can also put a small L bend on the end of a stiff wire like a paper clip straightened, and use that to dab some light grease up under there, then slider the haldle up and down a few times to spread.
As above, Deoxit Fader Lube is the best thing to do, after using Deoxit cleaner.
As for the rotary pots and sliders, the shafts are lubricated with a viscous fluid/jel, the same used for damping tonearm cuing mechanisms and cassette tape door opening mechs.
Any cleaning will lower or remove that fluid, and so fader lube can help some.
As for the rotary pots and sliders, the shafts are lubricated with a viscous fluid/jel, the same used for damping tonearm cuing mechanisms and cassette tape door opening mechs.
Any cleaning will lower or remove that fluid, and so fader lube can help some.
Yep, that fader lube is damn near magic. Used on gear in dirty and humid environments it can bring a fader or pot from almost no signal to smooth as silk. Gets my vote.
If you're looking for a less expensive alternative, check out Servisol Super 10 switch cleaning lubricant.
It's suitable for switches, potentiometers and faders and leaves a residual lubricating film.
Ingredients: Soparaffic Hydrocarbon Solvent Blend; Mineral Oil (Mist); Hydrocarbon Aerosol Propellant
It's suitable for switches, potentiometers and faders and leaves a residual lubricating film.
Ingredients: Soparaffic Hydrocarbon Solvent Blend; Mineral Oil (Mist); Hydrocarbon Aerosol Propellant
question, if i may, is it worthwhile to look for the presence of low level dc across the control when a pot or fader seems to need frequent cleaning to operate noise free?
a good many older pieces of gear seem to suffer from this and it usually turns out to be leaky interstage coupling caps.
a good many older pieces of gear seem to suffer from this and it usually turns out to be leaky interstage coupling caps.
Indeed, any DC across a pot used for audio level will tend to make it noisy.
eliminate the problem with a new coupling cap.
eliminate the problem with a new coupling cap.
Years back I wanted to test the old "audiophile volume knob" myth. Figuring that the potentiometer and volume knob might be somehow microphonic, I ran 9V thru the pot, then thru a DC blocking cap into a sound card. Any movement of the potentiometer wiper caused by the knob shaking should produce an AC voltage that would show up in the recording.
I bumped, banged, thumped, shook, rattled and even tapped the pot with a hammer. Nothing, nada, zip. No AC signal. Twisting it by hand did result in some noise. As you might guess, I haven't purchased any special audiophile high dollar volume knobs. 😉
I bumped, banged, thumped, shook, rattled and even tapped the pot with a hammer. Nothing, nada, zip. No AC signal. Twisting it by hand did result in some noise. As you might guess, I haven't purchased any special audiophile high dollar volume knobs. 😉
In broadcast industry, we use F2 Special Contact since more then 50 years. It will not resurrect already damaged track (carbon loose, scratch...) but will allow long life operations. In broadcast mixers (studer...) and recording systems, it allows every day use.
The problem with most contact cleaners is they clean, but also flush the lubrication.
I've been using Philips Contact cleaner for Years and has always worked fine.
Where to buy Deoxit Faderlube in Europe ? Would like to try it.
I've been using Philips Contact cleaner for Years and has always worked fine.
Where to buy Deoxit Faderlube in Europe ? Would like to try it.
It's better to clean before ! Cleaning will keep out dust and prevent from lubricant mixing.
F2 special contact is dedicated for pots, sliders... and leave lubricant layer.
Bonding agent is decomposing in PTFE, so not ideal for this use.
F2 special contact is dedicated for pots, sliders... and leave lubricant layer.
Bonding agent is decomposing in PTFE, so not ideal for this use.
Last edited:
Slider pots arent too expensive. 0.69gbp at rs components.
if your good at desoldering without removing the tracks as well then that is better than trying to fix old and worn out pots.
if your good at desoldering without removing the tracks as well then that is better than trying to fix old and worn out pots.
