well, books too then!
@ http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/members/borispm.htmlborispm
I'm not too familiar with the concepts between bipole designs, but I understand it helps reduce vibrations?
I'm not sure how necessary that would be since the whole thing would be secured together with epoxy or another heavy duty bonding agent.
I've only put thought towards the aesthetics and assembly so-far, now I guess its time to sort out acoustics...
Nahhh ! I was cheating ! 😀
Just think that any closed space is a low-pass filter .
😕
the speaker that protrudes from the baffle , get a little effect from the upper 'tubey protrudey '😱😀 ,that is to be investigated .
Also ,such a job and production for a small speaker ? I would put two in each cabinet ,possibly separated .
Just think that any closed space is a low-pass filter .
😕
the speaker that protrudes from the baffle , get a little effect from the upper 'tubey protrudey '😱😀 ,that is to be investigated .
Also ,such a job and production for a small speaker ? I would put two in each cabinet ,possibly separated .
I've been a bit busy, and havent bothered to try and keep this alive.
I'm guessing this will be a transmission line since I plan on leaving the bottom open.
Its just a crude (by my standards anyway) sketchup model. I didnt plan on having the driver stick out that much, nor do I intend on having the tube extend within the enclosure.
As far as the work required for one pair. It probably wouldn't be worth it, at the same time, its likely going to be less work than the Saburos I built last summer. Its more of an experiment, but I would like to set up a construction process that would allow for easy, consistent repeat construction. Using molds for both the stand and the enclosure means that these would actually be very straight forward to make multiples of. This way, I could possibly sell them on the side and fund my various projects.
Adding a second driver would make construction even more complex as well, and I haven't been sold on the idea of dual full range driver setups. I figure these will sound at least as good as the pensils with CHR-70s I have, the drivers of which I will use for development. Once I get them finalized I will probably go up to alpair 10.2 or something similar.
I have made a slight change since last time...since the interior is going to be unglazed, its quite porous. As a result, glue like epoxy will stick quite well. This lets me get away with not having any lips on the interior to attach the stand to. As long as the sections that extend from the stand to stabilize it can sit flush with the surface, I can just glue it in place. It won't be going anywhere that way.
I'll start construction proper in June, I need to make a to build a center for my home theater first. Progress will probably be slow as well since I am in no rush. I'll also probably figure out Hornresp and some of the other bits of software.
I'm guessing this will be a transmission line since I plan on leaving the bottom open.
Its just a crude (by my standards anyway) sketchup model. I didnt plan on having the driver stick out that much, nor do I intend on having the tube extend within the enclosure.
As far as the work required for one pair. It probably wouldn't be worth it, at the same time, its likely going to be less work than the Saburos I built last summer. Its more of an experiment, but I would like to set up a construction process that would allow for easy, consistent repeat construction. Using molds for both the stand and the enclosure means that these would actually be very straight forward to make multiples of. This way, I could possibly sell them on the side and fund my various projects.
Adding a second driver would make construction even more complex as well, and I haven't been sold on the idea of dual full range driver setups. I figure these will sound at least as good as the pensils with CHR-70s I have, the drivers of which I will use for development. Once I get them finalized I will probably go up to alpair 10.2 or something similar.
I have made a slight change since last time...since the interior is going to be unglazed, its quite porous. As a result, glue like epoxy will stick quite well. This lets me get away with not having any lips on the interior to attach the stand to. As long as the sections that extend from the stand to stabilize it can sit flush with the surface, I can just glue it in place. It won't be going anywhere that way.
I'll start construction proper in June, I need to make a to build a center for my home theater first. Progress will probably be slow as well since I am in no rush. I'll also probably figure out Hornresp and some of the other bits of software.
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