I have a 2x25 Watt class D amp with CS8673 chip.
It can take maximum voltage of 24 Volts.
I have a 60 watt solar panel with maximum open circuit voltage of 22 Volts.
Is it possible to power such an amplifier directly with a solar panel with maybe some filtering capacitor of several thousand uF? Or should filtering be omitted ?
I live in egypt here you have always sun and it never rains.
Anyone tried running a class D amp like this?
It can take maximum voltage of 24 Volts.
I have a 60 watt solar panel with maximum open circuit voltage of 22 Volts.
Is it possible to power such an amplifier directly with a solar panel with maybe some filtering capacitor of several thousand uF? Or should filtering be omitted ?
I live in egypt here you have always sun and it never rains.
Anyone tried running a class D amp like this?
I am at this topic
My solar charger detects the battery system to provide an appropriate charge level, so I would say that you will need a very small bank of the correct voltage and parallel your caps to the battery bank. Depending on your cap bank size, the battery and caps should charge up and amp will mostly draw from the caps first
In my Bass Shelter project, I am playing with a DIY wave generator to rectifier to cap bank to DC-DC voltage upstepper to BLDC controller to dynamically harvest electrical motive power in a battery less setup. I have seen voltage steppers used in place of a solar charge controller for other battery less projects
I don’t think that I wrote that out correctly. What I want to do is find an alternative to the 48v battery below. It is 10AH and 100A is the type of charge and discharge performance that I am after. My charge controller can provide 100A charge current and that much discharge current ability too would be good. A very short runtime with 2x amp modules at full tilt is ok and 5-10mins is good
To get that kind of current performance, I have to use a LiFePo4 bank D which is very heavy. I don't need the duration of a 100AH battery, just the max charge and discharge current
To get that kind of current performance, I have to use a LiFePo4 bank D which is very heavy. I don't need the duration of a 100AH battery, just the max charge and discharge current
My solar charger detects the battery system to provide an appropriate charge level, so I would say that you will need a very small bank of the correct voltage and parallel your caps to the battery bank. Depending on your cap bank size, the battery and caps should charge up and amp will mostly draw from the caps first
In my Bass Shelter project, I am playing with a DIY wave generator to rectifier to cap bank to DC-DC voltage upstepper to BLDC controller to dynamically harvest electrical motive power in a battery less setup. I have seen voltage steppers used in place of a solar charge controller for other battery less projects
Same here, omit or a very small capacity battery. For lightweight craft
A small battery on your capacitor bank will allow music to flow into the night too....
A battery is very limited by the max charge rate it can accept, so how quickly it can charge up. It makes for a very poor 'fast' reservoir and thus makes for a poor capacitor. It also makes for a heavy storage, which is not always desired. I need a portable that can take advantage of a strongly available charge current without pushing battery weights with my legs. Don't know the OP's need for battery less but it is a very interesting goal
difficult:
lead acid batteries only have 12.7 volts.
Li ion does not like being driven without battery management system protecting against discharge and balancing the cells.
If the system works with a big enough panel and a capacitor then it should be ok. I'll try out and report
lead acid batteries only have 12.7 volts.
Li ion does not like being driven without battery management system protecting against discharge and balancing the cells.
If the system works with a big enough panel and a capacitor then it should be ok. I'll try out and report
@Randy Bassinga
if you decide to use battery management system and a charger you easily will find strong and lightweight li ion batteries.
Just choose cells with very little internal resistance able to deliver high currents without warming up.
Most legendary are Sony cells also called by the name konion.
There are high current types supporting 10c discharge!
if you decide to use battery management system and a charger you easily will find strong and lightweight li ion batteries.
Just choose cells with very little internal resistance able to deliver high currents without warming up.
Most legendary are Sony cells also called by the name konion.
There are high current types supporting 10c discharge!
Discharge rate is not really a problem. I picked up batteries at the top of spec for discharge rates. Ample discharge rate for even my 2kwrms amp @2R load
The problem with batteries are charge time. My 100AH battery can accept a 100A charge current which makes for a 1hr charge which is quite fast in normal terms but comes with a weight penalty
I don't need the storage to have long capacity, as the charge current is strong day or night. Instead, I need a fast reservoir that can exploit the available charge rate without the weight penalty of the battery. That's my project goals
For what you are doing, look at how stable that output voltage from the panel is during the use hours. Try a voltage converter set to a steady output voltage instead of the charge controller and try adding some caps after the voltage converter to smooth it out
The problem with batteries are charge time. My 100AH battery can accept a 100A charge current which makes for a 1hr charge which is quite fast in normal terms but comes with a weight penalty
I don't need the storage to have long capacity, as the charge current is strong day or night. Instead, I need a fast reservoir that can exploit the available charge rate without the weight penalty of the battery. That's my project goals
For what you are doing, look at how stable that output voltage from the panel is during the use hours. Try a voltage converter set to a steady output voltage instead of the charge controller and try adding some caps after the voltage converter to smooth it out
first i will try to hook it directly to the panel filtered with the said capacitance
i live here (black dot). This is a map of sun intensity
i live here (black dot). This is a map of sun intensity
@Randy Bassinga
if you have a high discharge rate you can charge with lots of current, too.
But a powerful charger is not cheap
if you have a high discharge rate you can charge with lots of current, too.
But a powerful charger is not cheap
Might work for a bit. Not really enough current from a 60 watt panel depending on light.
The panel wont always make 22 volts, specially under load with changing light conditions.
Very very simple 60 watt panel and little tiny 18 volt charge controller would keep a basic 18 volt drill battery maintained no problem.
The battery supplies bigger current demands for listening. Solar panel would somewhat maintain a charge.
Of course they have workplace / jobsite amplifiers that run off drill batteries. Usually last 4 to 6 hours.
With normal drill battery recharge times, endless power all day.
But for remote situations, we are talking very very cheap small solar regulator to maintain a 60 watt panel and 18 volt battery.
Have boxes of these things, would just give you one. Or plenty of solar shed light controllers
The panel wont always make 22 volts, specially under load with changing light conditions.
Very very simple 60 watt panel and little tiny 18 volt charge controller would keep a basic 18 volt drill battery maintained no problem.
The battery supplies bigger current demands for listening. Solar panel would somewhat maintain a charge.
Of course they have workplace / jobsite amplifiers that run off drill batteries. Usually last 4 to 6 hours.
With normal drill battery recharge times, endless power all day.
But for remote situations, we are talking very very cheap small solar regulator to maintain a 60 watt panel and 18 volt battery.
Have boxes of these things, would just give you one. Or plenty of solar shed light controllers
I run my outdoor stereo (which uses a car head unit) from a 70w solar panel, but use a car battery. You could use two in series, charged in parallel.
I find most car batteries that will no longer work in a car still have a few years of life used lightly, unless a cell has died while in the car. The constant charging helps extend their life, whereas in a car they can sometimes get run down if the car isn't used much.
I always have two or three batteries around for solar use as I have a few cars I own or look after. My shed has a solar panel and 12v LED downlights.
I find most car batteries that will no longer work in a car still have a few years of life used lightly, unless a cell has died while in the car. The constant charging helps extend their life, whereas in a car they can sometimes get run down if the car isn't used much.
I always have two or three batteries around for solar use as I have a few cars I own or look after. My shed has a solar panel and 12v LED downlights.
Which is still too slow when it comes to batteries. Although, my Toyota Camry Hybrid taxi was interesting. You could see the batteries coming up while coasting down the big ranges surrounding Sydney. But this discussion is beyond the scope of your simple project
The mini disco system that I am building for land use is much more in line with what you are doing but higher power goals. My power supply is a 6kw 48v petrol gen and my amp modules are 2x dual-core TPA3255 boards. Still to work out the filtering and interface between the gen and the boards
Good idea!👍
But even if your region is very sunny, the temperatures are also high....
The panel will see its efficiency collapse (voltage via temperature coefficient).
I would have put supercaps of good capacity, capable of slower discharge than capacitors and a faster recovery time than batteries.😊
a solar panel is acting like a current source, the current is related to the solar intensity. so as long you have enough current available to drive the amp the voltage will not drop. inspect the solar panel datasheet to find the voltage at maximum power point Vmpp, that should not be much above the max supply of yr amp. a powerful shunt regulator 5V volts above the Vmpp could regulate and limit the voltage, no need for a battery and charge controller.
I had a loudspeaker with a maxamp20 and 5W amorphic solar panels. It had a 7Ah 12V SLA battery. At some point the battery lost most of its capacity, but the solar panels could easily drive it a low to medium spl. When the sun went down to much it stopped working. This was in summer in Denmark.
