Magura said:Let me destroy your bliss....for something you put in a speaker, you should be worried about microphonics.....meaning you need something cast in a box of some kind.
You can also give your caps a good coat of hot melt glue to reduce vibration.
nice caps
Those caps should be very good for a Xover.
AFter the hot glue tip, I figured I'd show mine. I use that Post It putty used to pin up paper. It's yellow and comes from Home Depot and other places. I just use it to damped the leads as they go into the caps to eliminate as much microphonics as possible.
Here's my Spica TC50 Xovers after I redid them.
Those caps should be very good for a Xover.
AFter the hot glue tip, I figured I'd show mine. I use that Post It putty used to pin up paper. It's yellow and comes from Home Depot and other places. I just use it to damped the leads as they go into the caps to eliminate as much microphonics as possible.
Here's my Spica TC50 Xovers after I redid them.
Attachments
oldbar said:I am not sure about what you are talking about .
Try taking a rolled naked film cap, and mount it on your multimeter with crocodile clips, now squeze the cap between two fingers and see what happens to the capacitance.
The same thing happens in a speaker.
Magura
Re: nice caps
It will not change anything to cover the leads in goo, you need to cast the caps into a solid box or tube of some sort. The only reason to leave caps naked is to get a better markup on them, and as long as we support that, the manufacturers and/or the re-branders will keep laughing all the way to the bank.
Magura
tommytube said:Those caps should be very good for a Xover.
AFter the hot glue tip, I figured I'd show mine. I use that Post It putty used to pin up paper. It's yellow and comes from Home Depot and other places. I just use it to damped the leads as they go into the caps to eliminate as much microphonics as possible.
Here's my Spica TC50 Xovers after I redid them.
It will not change anything to cover the leads in goo, you need to cast the caps into a solid box or tube of some sort. The only reason to leave caps naked is to get a better markup on them, and as long as we support that, the manufacturers and/or the re-branders will keep laughing all the way to the bank.
Magura
I have bought many of them.
Note that Tannoy and B&W use SA caps for their top of the line speakers.
I could get them at prices cheaper than most sites advertised on the net. Their prices for me were only a bit higher than Solen and substantially lower than Auricaps and many other caps.
I once tried them as the output caps in a very cheap line stage preamp and they did not seem to make any difference in sound quality comparing to even the cheap Mylars (not in a fair test though).
When used in XOs they sound clean to me. Some sweared they are better than Hovland caps.
One day I replaced one of them with some Jaycar polypropylene cap and was shocked that the sound was no longer listenable. I then tried some unbranded Japanese polypropylene caps and the sound was also unlistenable. I swapped back to the SA and the music was back.
I bought 2 pairs of Solen PP for the purpose of comparing the sound to decide what I would buy in the future but have not got a chance to do the actual comparison. I can get both at reasonable prices.
The sizes of the SA caps are subtantially larger than the solens.
I hope this helps.
Regards,
Bill
Note that Tannoy and B&W use SA caps for their top of the line speakers.
I could get them at prices cheaper than most sites advertised on the net. Their prices for me were only a bit higher than Solen and substantially lower than Auricaps and many other caps.
I once tried them as the output caps in a very cheap line stage preamp and they did not seem to make any difference in sound quality comparing to even the cheap Mylars (not in a fair test though).
When used in XOs they sound clean to me. Some sweared they are better than Hovland caps.
One day I replaced one of them with some Jaycar polypropylene cap and was shocked that the sound was no longer listenable. I then tried some unbranded Japanese polypropylene caps and the sound was also unlistenable. I swapped back to the SA and the music was back.
I bought 2 pairs of Solen PP for the purpose of comparing the sound to decide what I would buy in the future but have not got a chance to do the actual comparison. I can get both at reasonable prices.
The sizes of the SA caps are subtantially larger than the solens.
I hope this helps.
Regards,
Bill
Magura said:Try taking a rolled naked film cap, and mount it on your multimeter with crocodile clips, now squeze the cap between two fingers and see what happens to the capacitance.
I tried this with an inexpensive Dayton film and foil, and with a Solen polyprop. I squeezed pretty hard (hard enough to slightly dent the Solen.) The result? No change in capacitance.
HiFiNutNut said:
One day I replaced one of them with some Jaycar polypropylene cap and was shocked that the sound was no longer listenable. I then tried some unbranded Japanese polypropylene caps and the sound was also unlistenable. I swapped back to the SA and the music was back.
That bad? (Hi Quality Metallised / Polypropylene Capacitor?)
Yes that bad. They are Metalised Polypropylene capacitors but most certainly not good quality. Jaycar always buys the cheapiest stuff regardless of quality. I never believed caps of the same type (except for Electrolytic) would make that much of a difference and because of that event I was forced to change my mind.
dsavitsk said:
I tried this with an inexpensive Dayton film and foil, and with a Solen polyprop. I squeezed pretty hard (hard enough to slightly dent the Solen.) The result? No change in capacitance.
In that case you need a new meter. For solen PP the change is approx. +/- 2nF for a 100nF cap.
Magura
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