They are standard DC blocking input caps. However, they are much higher than anyone would ever need. If we assume that we see about 30K looking into R702, then putting the input -3 dB corner at 2 Hz would result in needing input caps of about 1/(2*pi*2*30000)=2.65 uF.
OK...bump it up a bit to 2.7 uF...and you can probably replace the original C1 with a very nice 2.7 uF film cap.
Agree, within tolerance for a large electrolytic, also 2 ohm ESR in series with a 30k input again is nothing.
That said, they impress me as being way too large and above suggestion of something between 2.5 and 3uF looks way more reasonable.
Applying any DC from a previous stage to original ones will allow a large thump through, with no improvement to audio quality.
The Citation 12 has a bipolar input stage. There is DC input current flowing, and there is a small DC voltage
across the 33k resistor to ground. This requires an input DC blocking capacitor, and is normal for this type
of input stage. It is best to use a nonpolar film or a bipolar electrolytic capacitor of 3uF to 10uF here.
I have a lot of high quality caps here left over from upgrading speaker crossovers. I just spotted some used 2.2uF and 4.7uF WIMA films. I also have brand new Nichicon ES 4.7uF 50v. None of them are axial though (not that it matters, I guess). Since I'm trying to cut back from a massive 250uF, anything should help but which of these would be best to use for this? Or should I go order some "proper" 2.7uF MPP axials?
I would just go with the radial film caps you have on hand. The axials have gotten a bit expensive and harder to find.
This is in the point-to-point wiring, underside of the chassis. I could fit a gigantic cap under there if I wanted.
Since the Wima is a radial film, whichever one I decided on will most likely get installed upside-down, with the top of the box hot-glued to the chassis.
Since the Wima is a radial film, whichever one I decided on will most likely get installed upside-down, with the top of the box hot-glued to the chassis.
I've swapped in the 4.7uF film caps and OUCH there was an enormous turn-on pop that wasn't there before. Also a much smaller pop came through at regular intervals that reminded me of a needle hitting a scratch on an LP.
Unless you guys have any advice on that turn-on kapow, I'm going to find some new 250-350uF BP electrolytic caps and be done with this part of the story.
Unless you guys have any advice on that turn-on kapow, I'm going to find some new 250-350uF BP electrolytic caps and be done with this part of the story.