Hi Nuuk,
I had a zobel across the Ciare terminals, but that was then. Sorry too much has happened between then and now to know the values.
I do my own DHT SE amps so only listen to others when I can.
The Gainclones were those famous Jap ones, you must know them , a cylinder power supply and a small box.
I have had my end knocked in by some other commercial amps , they were Marantz T1 monos. Push pull not SE.They did make me look at things in a different way. Made Lowthers into giant killers.
Cheers now.
I had a zobel across the Ciare terminals, but that was then. Sorry too much has happened between then and now to know the values.
I do my own DHT SE amps so only listen to others when I can.
The Gainclones were those famous Jap ones, you must know them , a cylinder power supply and a small box.
I have had my end knocked in by some other commercial amps , they were Marantz T1 monos. Push pull not SE.They did make me look at things in a different way. Made Lowthers into giant killers.
Cheers now.
The Gainclones were those famous Jap ones, you must know them , a cylinder power supply and a small box.
That could explain your experience with the GC/Ciare combination Peter.
The Gaincards were LM3875 amps with only the minimum 1000uF on each rail. As as been said earlier in this thread, you really need the LM3886 based GC's to supply enough current. 😉
Nuuk said:do you suffer from some sort of colour-blindness?
Not at all... just the black on darkish blue color scheme was hard to read. Not enuff contrast.
When i 1st commented we decided it must be my non-CSS browser, but 3 more recent CSS compliant browsers weren't much better. The new color scheme is a huge improvement.
dave
Not at all... just the black on darkish blue color scheme was hard to read. Not enuff contrast.
I see now. So the text that was actually pale blue came out as black because the CSS wasn't picking up the colour properties from the stylesheet! I did use colour names but now I have used the RGB code.
I only tested the site in IE and Firefox.
Do you now pick up the brown text or is it still black?
PS Do you Canadian types say 'colour' or 'color'?
Nuuk said:I see now. So the text that was actually pale blue came out as black because the CSS wasn't picking up the colour properties from the stylesheet! I did use colour names but now I have used the RGB code.
I only tested the site in IE and Firefox.
Even in the CSS compliant browsers it was coming in as black. tested in at least Safari & the CSS version of iCab. I also likely tried FireFox & Camino.
Do you now pick up the brown text or is it still black?
It is now a rust colour.
PS Do you Canadian types say 'colour' or 'color'?
We use both....
dave
We use both....
Diplomacy alive and well there then! 😀
Well, I'm not sure why you were getting the black text before. Nobody else reported that problem although a couple of guys didn't like lighter text on a dark background.

Nuuk said:although a couple of guys didn't like lighter text on a dark background.![]()
As long as the contrast is a lower i have no problem with that, high contrast white on black is hard on the eyes thou (particularily on a CRT monitor)
dave
Re: digi amp
Sorry, off-topic...
I have heard a digital Panasonic (don't remember the model), it's one of those slim 5.1 AV amps.
5x100W RMS at 6 ohms, they say...
I've heard it in stereo, with a pair of Monitor Audio floorstanders, and a Panasonic DVD, connected with an optical digital cable to the amp.
The sound was quite impressive, very tight bass, detailed, but the treble lacked some extension, it doesn't go as high as I'm used to.
Funny, because there was very good detail in the midband and part of the treble.
This must have to do with the (necessary) output filter, maybe it could (or should) be optimized.
But it's a common characteristic of the digital amps, although maybe not all.
Btw, the Panasonic was available at the time for ~300 Euros. It has been discontinued, but they have released a replacement, for sure.
Sorry, off-topic...

ralf said:..Panasonic Sa-XR 70
a friend aof mine has the big TACT and the smaller newer Tact for Euro 3000 plus room cororrection.
They do not sound better than the Panasonic at all !!!
We have direct komparison.
Ralf
Because of the low price of Panasonic its not worth to build a t-amp.
I have heard a digital Panasonic (don't remember the model), it's one of those slim 5.1 AV amps.
5x100W RMS at 6 ohms, they say...
I've heard it in stereo, with a pair of Monitor Audio floorstanders, and a Panasonic DVD, connected with an optical digital cable to the amp.
The sound was quite impressive, very tight bass, detailed, but the treble lacked some extension, it doesn't go as high as I'm used to.
Funny, because there was very good detail in the midband and part of the treble.
This must have to do with the (necessary) output filter, maybe it could (or should) be optimized.
But it's a common characteristic of the digital amps, although maybe not all.
Btw, the Panasonic was available at the time for ~300 Euros. It has been discontinued, but they have released a replacement, for sure.
I'm wondering:
If you add magnets does that lower the "Q" ?
If so, that might explain the base rolling off some in the open baffles when using 2 magnets. Perhaps for open baffles the stock drivers without added magnets have some advantages as well as perhaps lacking in the mids.
If you add magnets does that lower the "Q" ?
If so, that might explain the base rolling off some in the open baffles when using 2 magnets. Perhaps for open baffles the stock drivers without added magnets have some advantages as well as perhaps lacking in the mids.
I'm wondering:
If you add magnets does that lower the "Q" ?
Yes, Qts is lowered I believe. As ever we have a compromise; here it is between more bass or better (clearer) midrange.
Without going back through all the posts on this subject, I can't remember who it was, but at least one person advocating the extra magnet with the Ciares, also suggested relieving them of bass duties by adding a sub.
I think that I will try going back to one magnet and see (hear) what happens. 😉
ciare ch250
i have received ch250 driver from assistance audio in an 8 ohm version.
i can't see this version on the company's website.
has anyone else heard of this variation? i really wanted 4 ohm since i will use the sonic impace t amp which produces much more power in 4 ohm.
thanks for your help
i have received ch250 driver from assistance audio in an 8 ohm version.
i can't see this version on the company's website.
has anyone else heard of this variation? i really wanted 4 ohm since i will use the sonic impace t amp which produces much more power in 4 ohm.
thanks for your help
You have to hear loud to become happy with the ciare and the t-amp. Listening to the t-amp at low voltages is no pleasure. If you really have 8Ohm 250s you are a lucky guy. You can search for my other posts for the whole story.
The membrane of the 8Ohm PH250 is not plain, it has concentric riffles. If yours is plain you own a rarity.
The membrane of the 8Ohm PH250 is not plain, it has concentric riffles. If yours is plain you own a rarity.
To clarify for those out there that don't have much experience, it depends on how you are using them. Higher Qts for open baffles, lower for horns. I guess transmission lines are in between..
Stock CH250 has a Qts around 1.3 , with extra magnet it drops to around 1.
A Qts of 1 is still high so it still can be used in an open baffle without a subwoofer. A Qts of 1.3 produces a bigger ripple which can compensate the 6db/octave drop of the open baffle.
However if your baffle is big enough bass perfomance should still be good (or even better, precision!) with an extra magnet.
The CH250 has a very limited Xmax, if its driven fullrange the control of the magnet over the the voicecoil will be even worser, so I recommend the extra magnet in any case. Just make your baffle big enough and experiment with the placement in the room (open baffles need some room behind them, min 1m to the backwall).
A Qts of 1 is still high so it still can be used in an open baffle without a subwoofer. A Qts of 1.3 produces a bigger ripple which can compensate the 6db/octave drop of the open baffle.
However if your baffle is big enough bass perfomance should still be good (or even better, precision!) with an extra magnet.
The CH250 has a very limited Xmax, if its driven fullrange the control of the magnet over the the voicecoil will be even worser, so I recommend the extra magnet in any case. Just make your baffle big enough and experiment with the placement in the room (open baffles need some room behind them, min 1m to the backwall).
knorke said:The CH250 has a very limited Xmax...
Yeah, I've noticed that the other day, looking at the pdf...
0.5mm Xmax.😱
I'm curious how can this driver produce any bass on an OB, as big as it may be.
Yeah, I've noticed that the other day, looking at the pdf...
0.5mm Xmax.
I'm curious how can this driver produce any bass on an OB, as big as it may be.
Having read your post Carlos, I just listened to mine (Faithless - No Roots

In this respect, the Goodmans 201's are much better. I can listen to them with or without the subs.

Is there any difference in bass with or without extra magnets?
And are your side walls dead or resonating?
And are your side walls dead or resonating?
Is there any difference in bass with or without extra magnets?
I'll try without the extra magnets later.
I'm using pieces of MDF clamped to the main baffles to extend them.

Nuuk said:Having read your post Carlos, I just listened to mine (Faithless - No Roots)without the subs on. I extended baffle width to 74 cm but I still didn't hear enough bass!
In this respect, the Goodmans 201's are much better. I can listen to them with or without the subs.![]()
With 0.5mm Xmax that's not surprizing.
I mean, that driver can produce some gorgeous midband, why not? But it will need help from a sub, and it will have to be crossed higher than normal.
This means two subs, actually, because they will become directional.
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