Chinese TDA1541 v4.0

[adeveza]

Sorry, but I am a newbie, know little about DAC. I just bought this Chinese DAC 4 x TDA1541 in parallel. I just hooked up the transformer temporarily just to see if it works. My problem, is that it works when plugged in to my regular Marantz CD player, however, if I plug it in to the SPDIF output of my computer, I get terrible crackling sound. I know my computer is fine as I have another DAC using TDA1543 with DIR9001 and it works fine, however, it does not work with my new TDA1541 DAC, but works fine in my CD player, can someone please explain to me whats going on here? I like to get this DAC to work, as I like what I hear when using it in my CD player.

Please help..

Alex

 

[TBKK]

i have the same problem i think i have bought the MUSE Mini TDA1543x4 NOS DAC!
i'm looking for the schematic it does not work at all.

 

[adeveza]

I also have a TDA1543, with tube output stage and this one works for me, I actually like the sound of this DAC, but the TDA1541, when plugged into my CD player gives excellent sound though, very clean.

 

[TBKK]

i have this on

 

[adeveza]

Heres mine:

 

[AudioLapDance]

Thorsten used to call Raindrop "horrorshow!"

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digi...220p-b-will-take-som-time-58.html#post3500540




I also have a Raindrop DAC that has a funny SPDIF lock issue.


Using the the USB and optical SPDIF is fine, but when using the BNC SPDIF I have to pull my cheater plug back a bit to break the ground connection ... and then it works fine !?!?!

This makes me think the SPDIF transformer is grounded on the wrong side or something ... you never know with Raindrop. I'll be trouble shooting it soon.



Yours sounds like more of an SPDIF audio format issue:



On the back of his/her digital source select PCB is a push-button and two LEDs:

D1 D2 Format
on on 16/I2S
on off 24/I2S
off on 24left
off off 16right

I'm using 'on on 16/I2S' format to lock to the optical SPDIF out of a Musiland 01USD USB to SPDIF converter and regular CD files in .flac It's a NOS 1541 DAC using the WW8805 receiver; I also have the digital input select board.

(Once I fix the BNC SPDIF, I'll be able to select between 2-3 SPDIF sources)

Cheers,
Jeff

 

[TBKK]

I have wait for more then 4 weeks for this Muse mini dac i'm not sending it back is there nobody how has the schematic or an link of the manufacture

 

[AudioLapDance]

TBBK, could you say more about your problem?

I'm guessing the two LEDs in the front are for power and lock.

Does it power up?

Does it lock on to an SPDIF signal?

SPDIF coax or optical? Your DAC is more basic because it doesn't have any selector (I'm assuming the switch on the back is for power) for the digital input. So that means coax OR optical plugged in but NOT both plugged in at the same time.

Does it produce any sound?

Is the sound distorted or crackle?

I can hear the frustration in your post, don't worry dude, we'll fix this!

Cheers,
Jeff

 

[Torchwood421]

Hi Jeff, Bad stuff from China.... A familiar place to be.... To bad someone on this side of the pond doesn't design a good 1541 dac board. I'd be in line to buy one. Thanks again for posting on the other thread. I will probably do as Thorsten suggests with the Veroboard. It's hard to find the key posts when they are hundreds of pages long. Dave

 

[TBKK]

Audiolapdance,

Power up nope.
Change the 12v, measure voltage on dir9001.
No sound at al LEDs dead.

Need a schematic, does anyone knows the manufacture of this dac
I have wait for 5 weeks to get this, and I'm sure I'm not the only one that's has these problems...

 

[TBKK]

Nobody has the schematic of this dac ? ......

 

[Torchwood421]

Dac

Hi TBKK, Did you ask the seller for a schematic? I think you can see a few things here from the photo's on Ebay. It appears to have a WM8805 input receiver. You can look at the datasheet to see how it is wired. Next I see the stupid reclocker scheme from the Analogmetric Dac. The ubiquitous SAA7220 digital filter. And "wow" 4 parallel TDA1541A dacs. Since it is very hard to do 1 (TDA1541A) correctly it is unbelievable that it has 4. My advice to you is get your money back. If you really want to fix this, it is most likely that your input receiver is dead or the SPDIF input is reversed. Or most likely a wiring mistake by the man in China. This is where the datasheet comes in handy. You will need to draw this out and look for errors. I have seen comments about the 4.0 dac's being noisy when they do work. I can point you to the Analogmetric schematic and that gives you the basic reclocker scheme. How the 4040, 7220 and basic TDA1541A is wired and remember it's 4 TDA's in parallel. So although you don't have a schematic it is possible to reconstruct one. Do you have a lot of spare time? OK, so I have been in your shoes. My Analogmetric's sing. I have 2. The schematic for my dac is a mess. I would dump that clock and 4040. I would also remove the extra pair of dac's. All that requires running clock recovery from SPDIF "Master" mode. However I wouldn't do that until your dac makes at least some noise. You will need to decide how much time you want to invest into this not to mention the money for replacement parts. Dave

 

[Torchwood421]

Must read

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digi...220p-b-will-take-som-time-58.html#post3500540 Do read what master Thorsten says. He is one of several guru's here.

 

[Torchwood421]

Link to the Analogmetric schematic

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digi...220p-b-will-take-som-time-53.html#post3441401 A simple dac is better.....

 

[TBKK]

Hi TBKK, Did you ask the seller for a schematic? I think you can see a few things here from the photo's on Ebay. It appears to have a WM8805 input receiver. You can look at the datasheet to see how it is wired. Next I see the stupid reclocker scheme from the Analogmetric Dac. The ubiquitous SAA7220 digital filter. And "wow" 4 parallel TDA1541A dacs. Since it is very hard to do 1 (TDA1541A) correctly it is unbelievable that it has 4. My advice to you is get your money back. If you really want to fix this, it is most likely that your input receiver is dead or the SPDIF input is reversed. Or most likely a wiring mistake by the man in China. This is where the datasheet comes in handy. You will need to draw this out and look for errors. I have seen comments about the 4.0 dac's being noisy when they do work. I can point you to the Analogmetric schematic and that gives you the basic reclocker scheme. How the 4040, 7220 and basic TDA1541A is wired and remember it's 4 TDA's in parallel. So although you don't have a schematic it is possible to reconstruct one. Do you have a lot of spare time? OK, so I have been in your shoes. My Analogmetric's sing. I have 2. The schematic for my dac is a mess. I would dump that clock and 4040. I would also remove the extra pair of dac's. All that requires running clock recovery from SPDIF "Master" mode. However I wouldn't do that until your dac makes at least some noise. You will need to decide how much time you want to invest into this not to mention the money for replacement parts. Dave

Sorry it has dir9001 as receiver

 

[Torchwood421]

Sorry it has dir9001 as receiver

Must be a earlier version? The current one has WM8805. The datasheet for DIR9001 is on the web. Maybe the other chip is bad. There is an input chip that the spdif runs into first. I don't have the number at the moment. Are you able to test to see if the spdif is coming into the dir9001?

 

[AudioLapDance]

Hi Jeff, Bad stuff from China.... A familiar place to be.... To bad someone on this side of the pond doesn't design a good 1541 dac board. I'd be in line to buy one. Thanks again for posting on the other thread. I will probably do as Thorsten suggests with the Veroboard. It's hard to find the key posts when they are hundreds of pages long. Dave

T's post about the veroboard is here:

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digi...any-good-tda1541a-dac-kit-13.html#post2862125

From my summary section:

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digi...220p-b-will-take-som-time-58.html#post3500556

Don't even get me started about a good 1541 PCB , I've been bugging you-know-who for years ... (Although I understand his reluctance.)

The Red Barron is one of the 'better' ones, lets hope yours show.

 

[AudioLapDance]

Audiolapdance,

Power up nope.
Change the 12v, measure voltage on dir9001.
No sound at al LEDs dead.

Need a schematic, does anyone knows the manufacture of this dac
I have wait for 5 weeks to get this, and I'm sure I'm not the only one that's has these problems...

It sounds like it's dead and you should really contact the seller (quickly!) about a replacement.

Now, if you want to take on the challenge of trying to trouble-shoot it yourself that's a whole other matter... is this what you want to do?

If so, we don't really need a schematic: it's all in the pic:



First thing: are you using the right polarity on the power input (center is usually power and outside is usually gnd but double-check on this DAC)? (I've done this!)

Then post what the voltage is on the voltage regulator pins, and the chips (eg: TDA1543, Vdd is pin 5) and we'll go from there ...

 

[AudioLapDance]

Here's some hints of a schematic, see what you can find:

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-line-level/165280-4-x-tda1543-parallel-dac-schematic.html
Mini Dac TDA1543 X 4 NOS
Why do people buy expensive DACs?
New NOS DAC with 4x TDA1543 for 60 bucks - AudioKarma.org Home Audio Stereo Discussion Forums

 

[adamgillingham]

Adeveza have you tried turning down the digital output level from the computer?

This may sound stupid, but it is possible you have similar issues that I'm having. If your using windows turn the system volume down to 6% or so and see if you get anything audible out.