8900 hours
Divide that by 2.5 hours per day, and that lamp will last you almost 10 years! I bet we will have much better technology available before that 10 year milestone comes around.
Like maybe 10 cm by 10 cm LED arrays that you can snap together to build a wall display of any size you want. Just like a projection screen, without the projector.
Divide that by 2.5 hours per day, and that lamp will last you almost 10 years! I bet we will have much better technology available before that 10 year milestone comes around.
Like maybe 10 cm by 10 cm LED arrays that you can snap together to build a wall display of any size you want. Just like a projection screen, without the projector.
Ok guys, after reading up on the lamps, I began to have 2nd thoughts about the big 11.5" metal halide lamps with 4k color temp I was going for ($160AU).
I searched around a bit more and ended up going with the kit here 🙂:
https://secure.lumenlab.com/shop/group.php?id=4 (the 230V version ofcourse 🙂 )
Cost me over $100 more (post was $60AU) but look at these specs 😀
* 33,000 lumens (great)
* 5200K color temp (bit on the high side, but should be good)
* 85 CRI (danm how nice is this, kicks the CRI of 65 on the others)
* 27mm arc gap
* ANSI S51
* 20,000 hour life (Couldnt ask for much more, and this is for projectors so should last the distance)
I didnt spend as much as i thought on the monitor and OHP, so this allowed me to spend the extra on the lighting 😀.
What do u guys think 🙂?
I searched around a bit more and ended up going with the kit here 🙂:
https://secure.lumenlab.com/shop/group.php?id=4 (the 230V version ofcourse 🙂 )
Cost me over $100 more (post was $60AU) but look at these specs 😀
* 33,000 lumens (great)
* 5200K color temp (bit on the high side, but should be good)
* 85 CRI (danm how nice is this, kicks the CRI of 65 on the others)
* 27mm arc gap
* ANSI S51
* 20,000 hour life (Couldnt ask for much more, and this is for projectors so should last the distance)
I didnt spend as much as i thought on the monitor and OHP, so this allowed me to spend the extra on the lighting 😀.
What do u guys think 🙂?
BTW, with this lamp being used in an OHP with the LCd pannel raised 1-2cm above the base, would I need a IR/UV filter?
If so, which is more important, IR or UV?
thanks
If so, which is more important, IR or UV?
thanks
nice lamp
With lumenlab's electronic ballast, you will get a bit more light out of the Ushio retrofit lamp than with a magnetic ballast. But you could have probably saved a bit on shipping by having them (or atlantalightbulbs.com) ship you the lamp, and then finding an S51 High Pressure Sodium magnetic ballast locally. This is a very common ballast used in lots of street lights and parking lot lights to run those orange/pink sodium lamps. The Ushio lamp you are getting is designed to screw right into the socket of an HPS 400 Watt fixture, to change from ugly light to beautiful white light. That is why they are called "retrofit lamps".
Retrofit MH lamps are a bit difficult to find, but sodium lamps (and ballasts) are used all over the world, where ever people need the cheapest possible, most efficient light source.
I have one of the Ushio retrofit lamps in my projector, and I am very happy with the size and light quality.
UV damage is slow and gradual: It turns your fresnels yellow and bleaches out your LCD over time. You can get a UV filter sheet for a few dollars, or use a piece of Lexan with UV blocking coating to support your first fresnel. That will do, for very cheap.
IR is more immediate: Your fresnels can melt or sag, and your LCD can get so hot it turns black. Get it even hotter and it will never recover. With a 400 Watt lamp, you should have an IR filter in there. DIYprojectorCompany.com has some IR filter glass that works pretty well. You might also find a selective solar film or glass, locally. It has to cut out "near IR", not just "longwave IR" like low-E glass does. The best (and most expensive, by far) is "hot mirror": Cuts >90% of the IR and passes >90% of the visible light. Rosco makes some that you may be able to buy through local stage lighting suppliers.
With lumenlab's electronic ballast, you will get a bit more light out of the Ushio retrofit lamp than with a magnetic ballast. But you could have probably saved a bit on shipping by having them (or atlantalightbulbs.com) ship you the lamp, and then finding an S51 High Pressure Sodium magnetic ballast locally. This is a very common ballast used in lots of street lights and parking lot lights to run those orange/pink sodium lamps. The Ushio lamp you are getting is designed to screw right into the socket of an HPS 400 Watt fixture, to change from ugly light to beautiful white light. That is why they are called "retrofit lamps".
Retrofit MH lamps are a bit difficult to find, but sodium lamps (and ballasts) are used all over the world, where ever people need the cheapest possible, most efficient light source.
I have one of the Ushio retrofit lamps in my projector, and I am very happy with the size and light quality.
UV damage is slow and gradual: It turns your fresnels yellow and bleaches out your LCD over time. You can get a UV filter sheet for a few dollars, or use a piece of Lexan with UV blocking coating to support your first fresnel. That will do, for very cheap.
IR is more immediate: Your fresnels can melt or sag, and your LCD can get so hot it turns black. Get it even hotter and it will never recover. With a 400 Watt lamp, you should have an IR filter in there. DIYprojectorCompany.com has some IR filter glass that works pretty well. You might also find a selective solar film or glass, locally. It has to cut out "near IR", not just "longwave IR" like low-E glass does. The best (and most expensive, by far) is "hot mirror": Cuts >90% of the IR and passes >90% of the visible light. Rosco makes some that you may be able to buy through local stage lighting suppliers.
yeah I found a few sites after that were cheaper. Its hard to find 400W ballasts here in AUS, esp with an ANSI "S51" (high preasure sodium). As for the sites I found that were cheaper in the US, ahh well coudl have saved money, but 2 late now 
lol. As for the ballast itself, Ive also seen cheaper ones, however the one from lumenlab looks preety nice (dosnt have wres sticking everywhere, is 1 set voltage, and seems to be a High quality one im not 2 upset over this.
Cheers for the info on the UV and IR, i have been looking into tinting that blocks 99% UR and I think arounf 50-60% IR while letting 80%+ visible light though, so if i can get ahold of a 1foot sruared sample ill lay this over the stage screen (well under the stage).
If i cant get any of this, then ill look at getting the pannels, however they would be a pain to mount + as they are thicker, im thinking they may distort the light more.
Im a little worried about the wires in the base of the unit tho (the ones going form the metal halide to the lamp), arnt they gona burn when the temp in there gets to 100-200 degrees Celcius :S?
lol. As for the ballast itself, Ive also seen cheaper ones, however the one from lumenlab looks preety nice (dosnt have wres sticking everywhere, is 1 set voltage, and seems to be a High quality one im not 2 upset over this.Cheers for the info on the UV and IR, i have been looking into tinting that blocks 99% UR and I think arounf 50-60% IR while letting 80%+ visible light though, so if i can get ahold of a 1foot sruared sample ill lay this over the stage screen (well under the stage).
If i cant get any of this, then ill look at getting the pannels, however they would be a pain to mount + as they are thicker, im thinking they may distort the light more.
Im a little worried about the wires in the base of the unit tho (the ones going form the metal halide to the lamp), arnt they gona burn when the temp in there gets to 100-200 degrees Celcius :S?
wires burning up?
MH lamps only get that hot if you put them in an enclosure with no air flow. There is very high temperature insulation wire available for such situations.
But inside your projector, you will have a fan pulling air around the lamp and pushing it outside the box. If you do that right, then nothing will get very hot. I use one 65 CFM fan, and my LCD only gets up to about 40 degrees C without any IR filtering. With an IR filter, it only gets up to around 26 degrees C.
The LCD is exposed to the light, but your wiring should not be. Most builders try to partially enclose their lamp inside a metal box. This prevents the light from hitting the power wiring or any of the ballast components directly. So they don't really get very hot. (Maybe if you sealed the ballast inside a box without any air flow, then it would get too hot.) In my projector, the air flow moves across the LCD and fresnel surfaces, then past the ballast, into the light box, around the lamp, through a duct, through the fan, and ends up outside the enclosure.
MH lamps only get that hot if you put them in an enclosure with no air flow. There is very high temperature insulation wire available for such situations.
But inside your projector, you will have a fan pulling air around the lamp and pushing it outside the box. If you do that right, then nothing will get very hot. I use one 65 CFM fan, and my LCD only gets up to about 40 degrees C without any IR filtering. With an IR filter, it only gets up to around 26 degrees C.
The LCD is exposed to the light, but your wiring should not be. Most builders try to partially enclose their lamp inside a metal box. This prevents the light from hitting the power wiring or any of the ballast components directly. So they don't really get very hot. (Maybe if you sealed the ballast inside a box without any air flow, then it would get too hot.) In my projector, the air flow moves across the LCD and fresnel surfaces, then past the ballast, into the light box, around the lamp, through a duct, through the fan, and ends up outside the enclosure.
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