I have a pair of Sony 3-way ported speakers (SS-U 7030) that I've opened up to see what they had. I found 22 gauge wiring, a KSC 50v 2ufd to the tweeter, and 56 to the midrange (which is reversely wired). Nothing but 22 gauge wire to the 15" woofer. The cabinets are huge, and only have a tiny piece of padding attached to the rear.
Would replacing the caps improve the sound? Do I need an inductor for the woofer? In a certain song I can watch the woofer float when a certain VERY high frequency note is played, and my subwoofer doesn't even flinch. How can I determine what value of inductor I need for the woofer, if I dont have any specs for it?
Also, I'm assuming running thicker cable to all components wouldn't hurt, as well as replacing the terminals on the back with something a little bigger as they now can only accept ~16 gauge wire.
Any other areas that can be improved?
Would replacing the caps improve the sound? Do I need an inductor for the woofer? In a certain song I can watch the woofer float when a certain VERY high frequency note is played, and my subwoofer doesn't even flinch. How can I determine what value of inductor I need for the woofer, if I dont have any specs for it?
Also, I'm assuming running thicker cable to all components wouldn't hurt, as well as replacing the terminals on the back with something a little bigger as they now can only accept ~16 gauge wire.
Any other areas that can be improved?
Ductseal, better bracing, better wire, maybe some puzzlecoat, better caps (at least on the tweeter) should all make a difference -- usually for the better.
Gotta go get the Mk II geek fest specials running so i'm leaving it brief.
Here a couple web pages that you should be able to pull some tips from.
http://www.t-linespeakers.org/classics/TLS80/TLS80_mods.html
http://www.t-linespeakers.org/design/tweeks.html
dave
Gotta go get the Mk II geek fest specials running so i'm leaving it brief.
Here a couple web pages that you should be able to pull some tips from.
http://www.t-linespeakers.org/classics/TLS80/TLS80_mods.html
http://www.t-linespeakers.org/design/tweeks.html
dave
I agree with Dave and Navin, all good upgrades, but beware of spending more money than the speaker is worth!
I would buy a cheap extra amp to drive the 15" and just use a cheapish ICE adjustable crossover to drive it and the mids. That way, you will have stuff you can use for another project, rather than spending money on a decent large passive crossover that will be useless for anything else.
Good luck🙂
I would buy a cheap extra amp to drive the 15" and just use a cheapish ICE adjustable crossover to drive it and the mids. That way, you will have stuff you can use for another project, rather than spending money on a decent large passive crossover that will be useless for anything else.
Good luck🙂
reply to topic
Get a 3 way passive crossover,replace the wiring, 12 gauge wire for the bass,14 gauge wire for the mid,and 16 gauge wire for the treble.
Also how good are the tweeters[ treble driver]. Bullet,dynamic horn,piezo and dome are all good.
But cone tweeters are really awful,especially the 2 inch delicate paper cone ones.
Also line the back panel with BAF wadding or wool.Glue and staple it to the back panel.
As for terminals the gold-plated type with a abs plastic rectangular cut out are good for upgrading the excisting terminals.
Good luck.
Get a 3 way passive crossover,replace the wiring, 12 gauge wire for the bass,14 gauge wire for the mid,and 16 gauge wire for the treble.
Also how good are the tweeters[ treble driver]. Bullet,dynamic horn,piezo and dome are all good.
But cone tweeters are really awful,especially the 2 inch delicate paper cone ones.
Also line the back panel with BAF wadding or wool.Glue and staple it to the back panel.
As for terminals the gold-plated type with a abs plastic rectangular cut out are good for upgrading the excisting terminals.
Good luck.
Sorry, Bull, the crossover has to be optimised for the drivers and the box, a generic 3 way crossover will probably sound rubbish.
Good idea, but be careful not to put too much in if the speakers are ported.
Yes, but be sure to make a tight seal with the box, use draft proofing strip or mastic.
Sell the speakers to someone who is desperate for a pair and then build yourself something decent.
Re: reply to topic
In these days of the ubiquitous dome tweeter this may be the way most people perceive these little tweeters. But some of the little alnico ones are actually very good -- even the budget ones. The best tweeter i have had on my BD-Pipes (pictures w many Ts) has been an open-back alnico Isophon cone tweeter. Granted my XO is probably higher than in these.
Even the little thimble jobs (now with purple proto phase plugs) do an admirable job.
dave
Bull said:
In these days of the ubiquitous dome tweeter this may be the way most people perceive these little tweeters. But some of the little alnico ones are actually very good -- even the budget ones. The best tweeter i have had on my BD-Pipes (pictures w many Ts) has been an open-back alnico Isophon cone tweeter. Granted my XO is probably higher than in these.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Even the little thimble jobs (now with purple proto phase plugs) do an admirable job.
dave
navin said:
If he removes the 15" woofer, he probably can run the bracing into the inside of the box through the now vacant speaker hole. Therefore, the finish remains untouched.
Probably.
Bill Fitzpatrick said:
Harsh, perhaps, but something to seriously consider before sinking time and money into making any improvements.
By the way, how thick is the particle board for this big box? If the matierial is less than 3/4" thick, then the enclosure is useless for a 15 incher.
In that case, follow Bill's advice.
All the suggestions COULD improve the speaker, but I doubt the effort vs. improvement will be satisfactory. I don't think Sony made any huge mistakes and the drivers are just waiting to come alive.
You mentioned you have a subwoofer. The 15" driver may not be needed. Try disconnecting a lead to the 15" and adjusting your subwoofer crossover to match with the midrange. If you want better speakers without spending much money, think about DIY!
You mentioned you have a subwoofer. The 15" driver may not be needed. Try disconnecting a lead to the 15" and adjusting your subwoofer crossover to match with the midrange. If you want better speakers without spending much money, think about DIY!
I don't know, I think the effort vs. cost vs. lessons learned vs. self satisfaction would be well worth it.
Tear open a partsexpress catalog, look at the cost of replacement capacitors, even an inductor to help out that "full range" 15" woofer, and make the cabinet quiter. I think with probably no more than $50 you could have fun, not worry about throwing away a lot of money and actually be happy with the results.
BTW, are these speakers from the older "rack" systems that Sony (as well as other companies) use to sell?
Man remeber those things? $700 or so and you got a quasi seperates system, except on the Sony's were they appeared to look like seperates, but upon closer inspection were actually one unit. And they could actually get really loud (not good, but definently loud). Seems like they died out in the late 90's
Westrock2000 said:
I have often thrown a couple hrs, some ductseal, puzzlecoat, wire, and an odd brace at these kinds of speakers and made dramatic improvements in them -- as Westrock says the learning alone is worth the effort.
dave
expenses
I never wanted to spend a lot of money improving these speakers, hence my 'cheap' title 🙂 . I was just wanting to see if there's anything that could be done with what I have. Rewiring them will cost very very little, I just upgraded from an old sony receiver to a new HK, and now that I have more than pro logic.. most of my money when into polk center and surrounds. The Sony's sound pretty good, but things like no inductor on the woofer, etc got me thinking.
bstanton: you said unhook the woofer, its safe to do this? I thought about this earlier, but was unsure..
When I first looked at these about 7 years ago, they were about $400 a piece, when I went back they'd been discontinued, and were almost giving them away. right now I dont want to drop money on building a set of DIY, not until I have around $600 to spend on a set of nice sounding as well as nice looking speakers.
Also, why is my midrange wired backwards? just wondering.
I never wanted to spend a lot of money improving these speakers, hence my 'cheap' title 🙂 . I was just wanting to see if there's anything that could be done with what I have. Rewiring them will cost very very little, I just upgraded from an old sony receiver to a new HK, and now that I have more than pro logic.. most of my money when into polk center and surrounds. The Sony's sound pretty good, but things like no inductor on the woofer, etc got me thinking.
bstanton: you said unhook the woofer, its safe to do this? I thought about this earlier, but was unsure..
When I first looked at these about 7 years ago, they were about $400 a piece, when I went back they'd been discontinued, and were almost giving them away. right now I dont want to drop money on building a set of DIY, not until I have around $600 to spend on a set of nice sounding as well as nice looking speakers.
Also, why is my midrange wired backwards? just wondering.
Yes, removing a wire from the 15" and then wrapping electrical tape around the end of the wire is safe. You might find that the 15" is adding more musical distortion than it is worth.
The midrange is probably wired backwards because the crossover has 1 capacitor and 1 inductor per driver. If you ask an electrical engineer about ELI the ICE man, he would tell you that the signals are "out of phase" between tweeter and midrange. Switching the wires on one of them puts them in phase so they move forward and backward together.
My first DIY speakers cost only $290 pair plus cost of wood. They are very sweet sounding, especialy if you have a subwoofer. http://www.zalytron.com/kits.html#Dickason
The midrange is probably wired backwards because the crossover has 1 capacitor and 1 inductor per driver. If you ask an electrical engineer about ELI the ICE man, he would tell you that the signals are "out of phase" between tweeter and midrange. Switching the wires on one of them puts them in phase so they move forward and backward together.
My first DIY speakers cost only $290 pair plus cost of wood. They are very sweet sounding, especialy if you have a subwoofer. http://www.zalytron.com/kits.html#Dickason
Re: expenses
Ductseal costs even less, and will make more difference. Use it to damp all the baskets.
dave
jeffm said:
Ductseal costs even less, and will make more difference. Use it to damp all the baskets.
dave
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