k, i'm looking into blowing my tax refund of approximately $300 on a set of speakers and a DIY gainclone amp. I have a few Q's?
Should i use a center channel? this would cost a lot more, i usually don't watch DVDs anyways, if that matters.
the doom room is small, there is no way to get the rear speakers to the rear of all listeners. how much should i spend on my rear speakers and all. right now i'm looking at some tang band midwoofers that are supposed to play from 100-15000.
how far away should speakers be from a monitor. If i don't have to buy sheilded speakers, i may spend a little more for some ribbon tweeters. the ribbon tweeters have neodynium magnets and for computer use, would be within a foot of my moniter.
right now it's looking like:
2 dayton 6.5 midwoofers
2 tang band tweeters
2 tang band 4" midwoofers
1 dayton 15" series 2
I primarily listen to music, 75% the time at my computer, the other 25% of the time elsewhere in the room.
any tips?
Should i use a center channel? this would cost a lot more, i usually don't watch DVDs anyways, if that matters.
the doom room is small, there is no way to get the rear speakers to the rear of all listeners. how much should i spend on my rear speakers and all. right now i'm looking at some tang band midwoofers that are supposed to play from 100-15000.
how far away should speakers be from a monitor. If i don't have to buy sheilded speakers, i may spend a little more for some ribbon tweeters. the ribbon tweeters have neodynium magnets and for computer use, would be within a foot of my moniter.
right now it's looking like:
2 dayton 6.5 midwoofers
2 tang band tweeters
2 tang band 4" midwoofers
1 dayton 15" series 2
I primarily listen to music, 75% the time at my computer, the other 25% of the time elsewhere in the room.
any tips?
Also thinking about college issues...
I'm actually off to college next year (Purdue School of Engineering) and so I'm taking this opportunity (late Senior year of high school) to build my speakers during a time when I have access to all the tools and actually have extra money laying around. The boxes for my Definitve/Seas MTMs are cut, and I have the drivers, so I just need the port tubes, damping foam, crossover parts, laminate, glue, and black paint for the un-laminated surfaces. Then I'll use a jigsaw and mount the drivers and slap in the acoustic foam and crossovers, wire everything up, and go.
I actually have a question just off-hand about cabinet building: Do I need to screw-and-glue or can I just glue the boxes together and clamp them really tight?
I'm actually off to college next year (Purdue School of Engineering) and so I'm taking this opportunity (late Senior year of high school) to build my speakers during a time when I have access to all the tools and actually have extra money laying around. The boxes for my Definitve/Seas MTMs are cut, and I have the drivers, so I just need the port tubes, damping foam, crossover parts, laminate, glue, and black paint for the un-laminated surfaces. Then I'll use a jigsaw and mount the drivers and slap in the acoustic foam and crossovers, wire everything up, and go.
I actually have a question just off-hand about cabinet building: Do I need to screw-and-glue or can I just glue the boxes together and clamp them really tight?
theChris said:Should i use a center channel?...I usually don't watch DVDs anyways, if that matters...the doom room is small, there is no way to get the rear speakers to the rear of all listeners...I primarily listen to music...any tips?
Well, I would say that if you have a limited budget, and your room is not very good for placing rears in, then I think you should pass on the center and rears. I have seen a few HT setups where the rears were put in very compromising positions, and I found them to be a distraction rather than an enhancement. Since you said that you rarely watch DVDs, I think buying a center and rears would be a waste of money.
I think the gainclone is an excellent idea.
Check out the ELF 1.5:
http://www.creativesound.ca/details.php?model=ELF1.5DK and
http://www.creativesound.ca/details.php?model=ELF1.5CK
I know I probably sound like I work at CSS because I've recommended these about 100 times, but dammit, they sound great, and they're cheap to boot.
You should give us a list of equipment you have already (amps, recievers, speakers) so that we can give better recommendations. Also, could you get away with a sub?(If played at sensible levels?) (I have been in people apartments were only a tiny bit of power at 50Hz makes the whole floor shake - They shouldn't have bothered with a sub)
There is only one thing for sure. You should Do It Yourself!!!
Tell us more!
speaker wire. 50ft. 20g. well i do own it, $1 at dollar tree...
i don't own anything yet.
i did just place an order for 6 lm1875 and 2 lm3875
i'm thinking of running the dayton 15" series 2 ($88) off the 2 lm3875 chips
i was looking at "DAYTON 6-1/2" SHIELDED WOOFER " 18.50 ea
from parts express. qts of .32 and fs of 33hz, and vas of .78 ft^3
also the "TANG BAND 28-847SA" 12.50 ea
fs of 600hz. the off axis response looks a little close to the on axis, and this should help for when the speakers are called upon for video usage.
i had planned building a 24dB/oct linkwitz-riley crossover, but without the allpass filter. crossover point at about 1800hz, thoguh that does kinda worry me.
I think the daytons could reach down to the 60hz level and I am hoping the room is small enough that i can get a quasi flat response with the 15" in a sealed box.
for the rear i have kinda now planned the: "PEERLESS 830341 5-1/4" for $7.00 ea.
they will likely only be used for gaming, where accurate positioning comes before quality, though the specs look pretty good as well. so a little less than 175, so about $200 shipped. the amp and associated signal processor will likely use the rest of the cash. oh, and i'm sure i'll need wood.
should i make the signal processor removeable so i can reuse the amp section?
as for ELF, isn't the Xmax a little low to put out much low frequency at any level?
i don't own anything yet.
i did just place an order for 6 lm1875 and 2 lm3875
i'm thinking of running the dayton 15" series 2 ($88) off the 2 lm3875 chips
i was looking at "DAYTON 6-1/2" SHIELDED WOOFER " 18.50 ea
from parts express. qts of .32 and fs of 33hz, and vas of .78 ft^3
also the "TANG BAND 28-847SA" 12.50 ea
fs of 600hz. the off axis response looks a little close to the on axis, and this should help for when the speakers are called upon for video usage.
i had planned building a 24dB/oct linkwitz-riley crossover, but without the allpass filter. crossover point at about 1800hz, thoguh that does kinda worry me.
I think the daytons could reach down to the 60hz level and I am hoping the room is small enough that i can get a quasi flat response with the 15" in a sealed box.
for the rear i have kinda now planned the: "PEERLESS 830341 5-1/4" for $7.00 ea.
they will likely only be used for gaming, where accurate positioning comes before quality, though the specs look pretty good as well. so a little less than 175, so about $200 shipped. the amp and associated signal processor will likely use the rest of the cash. oh, and i'm sure i'll need wood.
should i make the signal processor removeable so i can reuse the amp section?
as for ELF, isn't the Xmax a little low to put out much low frequency at any level?
Re: Also thinking about college issues...
Hi Bam, clamping will work fine, just don't go too tight and squeeze all the glue out, that will weaken the joint!
If your boxes are well made with joints that fit well dry, then parcel tape or similar will pull the surfaces together enough, especially if you have fairly small boxes.
BAM said:I actually have a question just off-hand about cabinet building: Do I need to screw-and-glue or can I just glue the boxes together and clamp them really tight?
Hi Bam, clamping will work fine, just don't go too tight and squeeze all the glue out, that will weaken the joint!
If your boxes are well made with joints that fit well dry, then parcel tape or similar will pull the surfaces together enough, especially if you have fairly small boxes.
theChris said:
should i make the signal processor removeable so i can reuse the amp section?
Best make it in a separate box altogether, then there will be less chance of interference from the power amps.
Have you thought about the cost of the traffos, they are more expensive than you think, and may blow your budget🙁
hmm.i have a few transformers from a microwave sitting around. I am looking into re-winding one of them.
my ece teacher this semseter is good with transformers, i'll probably ask him for some help.
my ece teacher this semseter is good with transformers, i'll probably ask him for some help.
Check out my "Time to rock your world." thread in the tubes forum...I'll use two MOTs in the beeatch.. 😀
Tim
Tim
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