I have another thread on this in the parts forum, but people building amps are really the ones I want to ask.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/part...sts-4-wire-mount-steel-plate.html#post2803792
What do you use for an affordable (cheap!) binding post that takes large #4 wire and mounts insulated from a metal chassis? I can't find 'em... I'm using them on steel plates on a bunch of bi-wired speakers, so I don't want to spend thousands of dollars on Mundorf parts.
If the #4 guage requirement is the problem I might consider a little smaller.
What I'm finding cost more than the drivers did.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/part...sts-4-wire-mount-steel-plate.html#post2803792
What do you use for an affordable (cheap!) binding post that takes large #4 wire and mounts insulated from a metal chassis? I can't find 'em... I'm using them on steel plates on a bunch of bi-wired speakers, so I don't want to spend thousands of dollars on Mundorf parts.
If the #4 guage requirement is the problem I might consider a little smaller.
What I'm finding cost more than the drivers did.
I can't answer your question, but I have a wild idea. Why use steel plates to mount them? You do say that it is inside a speaker cabinet. If you mount them on a piece of wood, you can use any old cheap nuts and bolts as mounting posts. Just a thought. 😉
McMaster-Carr
http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/117/3224/=f6w34z
Has hex bar stock. You can drill a few holes and make your own speaker terminals!
http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/117/3224/=f6w34z
Has hex bar stock. You can drill a few holes and make your own speaker terminals!
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Yes, on previous systems I just put huge brass bolts thru the cabinet with brass double locknuts and a brass wingnut. From McMaster-Carr.
I already have the cabinets cut for the plates, which are mostly to mount the Neutrik connectors.
When I use them at home I like to use my heavy flat oxygen-free cables. When I'm out I plan to use round cord with a Neutrik, but thought the binding posts might still be handy to wire the driver banks in parallel so the 4-conector Neutrik would work with a 2-conductor neutrik cable too.
For now I might just throw them together and use the Neutriks.
I already have the cabinets cut for the plates, which are mostly to mount the Neutrik connectors.
When I use them at home I like to use my heavy flat oxygen-free cables. When I'm out I plan to use round cord with a Neutrik, but thought the binding posts might still be handy to wire the driver banks in parallel so the 4-conector Neutrik would work with a 2-conductor neutrik cable too.
For now I might just throw them together and use the Neutriks.
What size is ~4 wire?
4mm diameter or 5mm diameter or even inches would help.
I know that cheap 5way binding posts are available in 4mm size and there are a few 5mm versions.
4mm diameter or 5mm diameter or even inches would help.
I know that cheap 5way binding posts are available in 4mm size and there are a few 5mm versions.
Why cheap , what about good ..? I'm using this to make mine ..
Order Copper 101 Round in Small Quantities at OnlineMetals.com
Order Copper 101 Round in Small Quantities at OnlineMetals.com
By cheap I mean "inexpensive" but very functional and durable. I'm bulding mulitple subs, and it's a bit frustrating that the cabinet hardware doubles the cost. If I need 16 binding posts, I can't afford $100 Mundorf terminal posts; IMHO they should not cost 3 times as much as the drivers.
I have no idea what the average dimensions of #4 wire are, that's just what some "Unavailable/backordered" ones claimed, and I think my home wire is probably more like #10 anyway; I'd just like BIG strong terminals.
I kind of like "simon7000's" idea of making your own - but I see that it could turn into a rather time-consuming machine-shop project.
For building up a connector from hardware-store bolts, washers, etc, you might consider using shoulder washers such as < http://www.mcmaster.com/#flanged-shoulder-spacers/=f8iuwx > and knurled nuts like < http://www.mcmaster.com/#knurled-thumb-screw-nuts/=f8ixme >. McMaster and Grainger are the big-name sources, but you can find similar items in the small-parts assortments of local hardware stores - IF YOU CAN FIND A LOCAL HARDWARE STORE! (That's a rant for another thread . . . )
Dale
For building up a connector from hardware-store bolts, washers, etc, you might consider using shoulder washers such as < http://www.mcmaster.com/#flanged-shoulder-spacers/=f8iuwx > and knurled nuts like < http://www.mcmaster.com/#knurled-thumb-screw-nuts/=f8ixme >. McMaster and Grainger are the big-name sources, but you can find similar items in the small-parts assortments of local hardware stores - IF YOU CAN FIND A LOCAL HARDWARE STORE! (That's a rant for another thread . . . )
Dale
Cable Size
This should help those folk who are unaware of the presumption of AWG (American Wire Gauge) in U.S. posts. If you've ever looked at automotive sound cables or DC solar power cables, you would probably be well aware of the size of these cables, since their global market packaging is usually oriented to US standards.
http://www.google.com.au/url?sa=t&r...kwnyFJd1kvuTklMCw&sig2=OVBprk-xuTa3QnY8HpeMdg
This should help those folk who are unaware of the presumption of AWG (American Wire Gauge) in U.S. posts. If you've ever looked at automotive sound cables or DC solar power cables, you would probably be well aware of the size of these cables, since their global market packaging is usually oriented to US standards.
Major league power distribution, I'd say. Like 250 Ampere constant current and several kilowatts 😱 but hey, its audio - it has to look big! 😀
The truth is I saw some that took #4 but were out of stock, so that's what I wanted, not needed LOL.
I got the ones from Madisound, which were on a large plastic plate so they were with 'cups' though they had no cup...hard to find but on a large plastic plate. They are just what I wanted: strong (too many get broken off) large-diameter, spaced farther apart, knurled, insulated, large wire-hole.
I got the ones from Madisound, which were on a large plastic plate so they were with 'cups' though they had no cup...hard to find but on a large plastic plate. They are just what I wanted: strong (too many get broken off) large-diameter, spaced farther apart, knurled, insulated, large wire-hole.
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