I'm tweaking and refurbing my 2.1 system. The Sony 2-way satellites (6 ohms) have a simple capacitor on the tweeter 1.8 uf / 100v. I have a pair of 2-way cross-overs salvaged from Toshiba. Also 6 ohms, the components are: an inductor, a 5w resistor (4.7 ohms) and a capacitor (2.2 uf / 50v). Is it worth swapping them?
Depends... if they are high quality mp caps, no. If they are old dried out electrolyts, then yes, definitely.
At a guess the new one will bring down the mid and higher frequencies and the tweeter will cross at a lower frequency. It's probably worth trying but no promises as to the results.
The rated or nominal impedance of a speaker or indeed a crossover means nothing, this is because impedance varies with frequency. So swapping one 6 ohm speaker crossover with another doesn't make sense.
If you want to harvest components, then you can safely replace like for like with up to 10% variance in value without too much detriment to the frequency response.
If the old components are 15 years or less, and capacitors show no sign of "bulging" or resistors overheating, then it is unlikely to net any benefit. Voltage ratings also 50v vs 100v won't matter in your application.
If you want to harvest components, then you can safely replace like for like with up to 10% variance in value without too much detriment to the frequency response.
If the old components are 15 years or less, and capacitors show no sign of "bulging" or resistors overheating, then it is unlikely to net any benefit. Voltage ratings also 50v vs 100v won't matter in your application.
I didn't really get what I was looking for. From my basic understanding the existing hi-pass filter offers 6dB per octave drop-off. The introduction of the inductor provides a slope of 12dB per octave. The resistor has the effect of taming the tweeter (probably to compensate for mismatched driver sensitivity).
The questions are: is 12dB per octave better? Would I hear the difference?
The questions are: is 12dB per octave better? Would I hear the difference?
Have you checked that the inductor is not there for the woofer?
Your question of 12dB/oct being better.. it's not going to be easy to answer that if the inductor causes the tweeter to match less well with the woofer.
Your question of 12dB/oct being better.. it's not going to be easy to answer that if the inductor causes the tweeter to match less well with the woofer.
Lower order crossover, if drivers behave well, results in much better phase.
Is it audible? Who knows. But we should design speakers with least amount of flaws.
Flat on axis, well behaved of axis, low distortion, best impulse response possible, least amount of abrupt phase changes.
Whats stopping you in trying both, comparing, measuring, listening, and reporting back. Rather than asking wague questions.
The electrical transfer function does not guarantee 1:1 with the acoustic response.
For example - if you have a 2nd order lowpass filter (series inductor with parallel capacitor) with a woofer, the acoustic slope may be more than 12dB if the woofer is already rolling off if the crossover point is at the top of the woofers usable range. It will drop off even more off-axis if the woofer is beaming.
When we start with passive crossovers is we make the mistake of looking at a passive crossover network and "orders" of slope - and they think that's what they will get when combined with any driver.
We usually talk in terms of acoustic slopes and order - the "target" - which is electrical transfer function (of the crossover) combined with the driver response.
So even if you had identical impedance curve but different brand / model drivers... swapping drivers will change the order of the acoustic slope if each driver has different frequency responses and rolloffs.
In terms of "swapping crossovers" - I already answered you with the component values within 10% is ok. But I am not sure why you want to swap here. Is it worth it? well maybe if the original crossover shows signs of old age, wear and tear or components being out of spec. You've given no indication as to why you think it is worth to swap (what is obviously wrong I mean).
I'm impressed that you're almost as flippant as me.
To answer your question: the crossover forms part of the input terminal unit. Swapping them requires cutting a bigger hole in the cabinet. Alternatively, I could patch from the existing terminals to the crossover but that seems to be something of a palaver.
The only way to know. Just do it.
You can have it temporarily outside, without cutting bigger hole.
You can have it temporarily outside, without cutting bigger hole.